In 1585 Marquis d’Alesme Becker set up the
estate and viticulture quickly followed, with records showing in 1616 the wines
were already in the marketplace. Following the death of the marquis the estate
was run by his widow, with a string of different owners throughout the years.
In the 1855 classification the estate was
ranked a third growth so despite in recent years the estate was rather low-key,
one must remember during those times the price was reflecting the quality level. The
estate was constructed in 1859, again a reflection of the good financial status
then.
By the 20th century however the
estate floundered, due to the succession of phylloxera, oidium, economic
depression and then the two world wars. The property came to the ownership of
Jean-Jules Theophile Chaix-d’Est-Ange, a lawyer of great reputation, who also
inherited Chateau Lascombes from his father.
His intention was to integrate the two
estates, but he died before achieving that in 1923. His successor, the
adopted Comte Emmanuel du Bourg du Bazas, sold the estate to WH Chaplin &
Co, an English firm that already acquired Malescot St-Exupery.
Neither properties saw any real investment
during the Chaplin years, until the Zuger brothers came into the scene,
purchasing the estate in the mid-20th century. The
estate remained under the Zuger family for half a century, passing from Paul
Zuger who died in 1981, to Claude Zuger, his son.
Malescot was passed to his other son Roger,
with considerable improvement in the last decades. However the
Marquis property did not impress, and in 2006 it was sold to Hubert Perrodo,
who founded Perenco, an energy firm specializing in exploration and
exploitation of fossil fuels.
In 1989 Perrodo purchased Chateau
Labegorce, and later Labegorce-Zede, he was aiming to reunite the three
vineyards to create the original Lebegorce. However, the plan
was dashed in 2006 when he was killed in a skiing accident while on holiday,
but his family would continue his works.
The vineyards constitute 16 hectares of
vines, planted with 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 45% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc
and 10% Petit Verdot, an unusual mix for any Margaux vineyard. The
wine is fermented in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks before going
into oak for up to 12 months, of which a third is replaced each vintage.
The bottle is fined before bottling, with
the grand vin Chateau Marquis d’Alesme Becker of about 8000 cases and a second
wine Marquis d’Alesme of 2000 cases.
I have
recently tasted the 2007 vintage and below is my tasting note:
Appearance
Bright
and clear, it has medium ruby color, with fading rims and legs.
Nose
Clean,
with medium (-) intensity aromas of black fruit such as blackberry and cassis,
oak notes of smoke, maturity notes of tobacco, herbaceous notes of blackcurrant
leaf, MLF nots of cream, animal notes of meaty. The wine is developing.
Palate
Dry with
medium acidity, the wine has medium (+) tannin which is a bit green and
gripping. With medium alcohol and medium body, it has medium flavors of black
fruit of blackberry and plum, oak notes of smoke, herbaceous notes of
blackcurrant leaf, kernel notes of chocolate. The wine has a medium finish.
Conclusion
Acceptable
quality Margaux though disappointing considering its GCC status, the wine has a
fairly weak nose with reasonable complexity though showing a bit of
under-ripeness. On the palate it has gripping tannin, with a fair concentration
though still a bit simple, with a decent length on the finish. Ready to drink
now, the wine has potential to further develop for another 1-2 years.
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