History of
the Rebholz family dates back to the early 16th century, but
viticulture has been the focus only for the last three generations. Grandfather
Eduard and father Hans Rebholz were pioneers of dry quality in the Sudliche
Weinstrasse district, southern part of Pfalz.
Over 70
years now the family has created a typical wine style which is an
uncompromising natural reflection of the vintage. The wines are neither
chaptalized nor deacidified, so can have 11.8% ABV to 13.5% ABV from one
vintage to the next. From the end of 1980s, Hansjorg Rebholz has taken over,
continuing to perfect the sense of the place and vintage express itself.
For
example, in 2010 unlike many others who chaptalized, deacidified or put wines
through malolactic fermentation to soften the high acidity, Rebholz did nothing
but pick late and highly selective, making bone-dry wines. The basis of quality
is the soil, with complex types of loess, loam, clay, sandstone, limestone all
existing.
The
family has sought out the best locations for different varieties. Since 2005
the vineyards have been managed organically. The grapes are harvested
selectively by hand in multiple passes, with the grand cru picked last to get
fully ripe, intense and 100% healthy grapes.
These
are destemmed and macerated for 24 hours, gently pressed, before the must is
fermented in stainless steel tanks or barrels (for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay). Each
batch is processed individually and stored in suitably sized tanks until final
blending or bottling.
The
family produces a mix of varieties, though internationally more renown for its
Rieslings, it also has Gelber Muskatellers and Gewurztraminers. The wine style
can be dry, late-harvest or noble sweet, with also a Sekt which is regarded as
one of the best sparkling wines in Germany.
The
Kastanienbusch Riesling GG is their signature wine, from a 3 hectare vineyard
on a steep, south-facing slope, the highest grand cru in Pfalz. The vines
average 20 years and grow in ferrous conglomerate soil.
I have
recently tasted the 2009 vintage of the Kastanienbusch GG and below is my
tasting note:
Appearance
Bright
and clear, it has light lemon color, with watery rims and legs.
Nose
Clean,
with medium intensity of citrus fruit such as lemon and grapefruit, floral
notes of white acacia, mineral notes of stony and waxy, autolytic notes of
lees, sweet spice of ginger, slight hints of maturity notes of honey. The wine
is developing.
Palate
Dry with
medium (+) acidity, the wine has medium alcohol with a medium (-) body and
medium (-) intensity flavors of citrus fruit like lemon and grapefruit, floral
notes of acacia, mineral notes of stony. However, the wine has only a short
finish.
Conclusion
Good
quality German Riesling with a nice nose showing good complexity and reasonable
intensity, the palate however is less impressive, with simpler flavors but the
most disappointing is the finish, which abruptly disappeared and did not
provide any lingering. Ready to drink now, the wine can be further developed
for another 3-5 years.
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