Furmint

Furmint is originated in the Tokaj region in north-eastern Hungary, home of the famous sweet Aszu wines. There are both green and yellow versions exist in Austria, with the yellow more highly prized. In Burgenland it is called Zapfner, and in further south it is called Mosler.

Its advantages are its complexity of flavors, finesse, longevity and high acidity. Young Furmint has flavors of steely smoke, lime peel and pears. Sweeter wines, affected by botrytis, taste of apricots and marzipan, barley sugar and blood orange, becoming nutty, smoky and spicy when aged, with chocolate, tobacco and sometimes cinnamon.

In Disznoko estate the dry Furmint is picked after the botrytized grapes, opposite to what one would normally expect, as the acidity would be too high and flavors lacking if picked early. The other problem is that most companies are focusing on the botrytized grapes and only slowly becoming interested in the dry version.

It is early budding and late ripening, with loose bunches of medium-sized, thick-skinned berries, susceptible to botrytis but good drought tolerance. Good producers include Wenzel (Austria), Chateau Pajzos, Disznoko, Oremus, and Royal Tokaji Wine Co in Hungary.

I have recently tasted the following varietal dry wine and below is my tasting note:

Appearance

Bright and clear, it is of medium intensity gold color, with legs.

Nose

Clean, with medium (+) intensity of mineral notes of wet wool and beewax, dairy notes of cream, maturity notes of honey, green fruit of custard apple, tropical fruit of guava, kernel notes of walnut, and oak notes of smoke. The wine is developing.

Palate

Dry, with medium (+) acidity, the wine has medium (+) alcohol and medium (+) body, showing medium (+) intensity flavors of green fruit such as grapefruit and custard apple, maturity note of beewax and wet wool, kernel notes of walnut, oak notes of vanilla, dairy notes of cream. The wine has a long finish.

Conclusion

Very good quality Hungary dry Furmint, with an intense nose showing complex characters, the wine has an equally impressive palate with good concentration, and a long finish. Despite the high alcohol level, the wine did not show a particularly warming sensation. An impressive wine, particularly in view of its inexpensive price, it is ready to drink now and not intend for further ageing, but can keep for another 2-3 years.