St-Julien

St-Julien has the highest proportion of classed growths in the Medoc, but is also the smallest of the famous four communes. The gravel is not as deep as Pauillac, but almost all the area is wine-growing land. The area is divided into two groups, with the riverside estates including the Leovilles around the village of St-Julien, and the southern group centred on Beychevelle, with Ducru-Beaucaillou, Branaire-Ducru and further inland Gruaud Larose and Lagrange.

St-Julien is often regarded as the middle in style between Pauillac and Margaux, producing round and gentle wine after ageing. The principal glory of the commune is the vast estate of Leoville, once the biggest in the Medoc but now divided into three.

Chateau Leoville-Las-Cases has the most extensive vineyards with almost 100 hectares, producing dense, long-lived classic wine, owned by the Delon family. Leoville Barton belongs to the old Irish family of Barton, after moving to Bordeaux in the 18^th century, with Anthony Barton now living in Chateau Langoa Barton next door, making the two wines side by side. Langoa is usually regarded as the lesser wine, but both are of good value. Poyferre has been making good wines since 1980s.

To the south the ‘flagship’ is Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou, under Bruno Borie, but its neighbor Branaire-Ducru is not as well polished. Beychevelle and St-Pierre has finesse and elegance, while Gruaud Larose begins the inland section of St-Julien, producing reliable wines.

Talbot occupies the high ground, a little bit less fine, but is consistently dense, smooth and savory. Lagrange is also highly regarded for the rich, substantial wine, with Suntory of Japan purchasing it in 1984, locating near the border with St-Laurent.

Three other classed growths are located in St-Laurent, which are under the Haut-Medoc appellation, at different stage of resurrection. La Tour Carnet is the most advanced, selling alluring wines. Camensac, now owned by the same family of Gruaud Larose, had the vineyards replanted, with the wine now gaining substance and recognition.

Belgrave has been restored by the Dourthe, but the terroir did not produce the quality of St-Julien. The commune is not a bourgeois country, with three estates ranked Crus Bourgeois Superieurs in 2003, including Chateau du Glana, Moulin de la Rose and Terrey-Gros-Cailloux.

I have tasted the following St-Julien wines so far:

Chateau Beychevelle	2002
Chateau Beychevelle	2004
Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou	2002
Chateau Gruaud Larose	2004
Chateau Saint-Pierre	2004
Chateau Talbot	2004
Croix de Beaucaillou	2005