Chateau Palmer

The origin of Chateau Palmer started with the Gascq family, who was an influential Bordeaux dynasty, with holdings spread over much of the Medoc. The story goes that General Charles Palmer, who served under Wellington in the British Army, was traveling by stagecoach on his way from the Battle of Toulouse in 1814, when he met Marie Brunet de Ferriere, the young widow of Blaise Jean Charles Alexandre de Gascq, who was selling her inherited estate.

Charles Palmer ended up purchased the Gascq estate in 1814. He entrusted the running of his property to a local wine merchant Paul Estenave and a manager Jean Lagunegrand, but he also authorized investment and expansion to acquire new land and plant more vines.  

Within two decades the estate expanded to 163 hectares, of which 82 hectares were planted to vines, in Issan, Cantenac and Margaux. Palmer also set about marketing his wine in London and was well received, known as Palmer’s Claret, even gracing the table of Prince Regent, future King George IV.

However, his fortunes deteriorated later and he had to sell off his assets, with Chateau Palmer being sold to Francoise-Marie Bergerac in 1843, but the property remained under his name to this day. It soon changed hands again, to Caisse Hypothecaire de Paris in 1844, before being purchased by the Pereire brothers, Emile and Issac, in 1853.

They were bankers who built their fortunes in France’s regeneration, including the development of Arcachon as a retreat close to Bordeaux. In the 1855 classification it was ranked a troisieme cru, only two years after their purchase, probably did not reflect the true potential of the property.

One explanation was that a key plot of the current Palmer, at the plateau behind the chateau, which was not part of the estate in 1855. The Pereire brothers made significant investments, constructing a chateau in 1856, similar in style with Pichon-Baron, that stands till today.

The vineyards covered 177 hectares then, of which 109 hectares were planted with vines. During the trouble period in the latter 19^th and the early 20^th century there was a downturn, finally ending with the brothers having to sell the property, initially small portions, but finally the remaining in 1938 to the syndicate of the Sichel, Ginestet, Mialhe and Mahler-Besse families.

These four famous families set to restore Palmer to greatness, but along the way the Ginestet and Mialhe families left the syndicate. At the same time, the Chandon family has helped maintain the vineyards for three generations, providing continuity, while Bertrand Bouteiller held the role of manager for 40 years before retiring in 2004.

Now the day-to-day affairs are run by Thomas Duroux, a local oenologist selected by the shareholders, who had spent time in Ornellaia. Now the vineyards cover 55 hectares, located in Margaux and Cantenac, situated on deep gravel soils over hard bedrock.

Planting density is high at 10,000 vines per hectare, with an unusually high proportion of Merlot at 47%, with 47% Cabernet Sauvignon and 6% Petit Verdot. Merlot accounts for 40% of the blend, and Petit Verdot is also a significant component, with the yield restricted to 35 hl/ha. There was once some Cabernet Franc but in 2004 they were all grubbed up.

The vines are averaging 38 years, with about one hectare of land cleared and replanted each year. The vineyards are not biodynamic but managed with attention, with biological pest management. The fruit is harvested by hand, with vinification in temperature controlled stainless steel vats, in varying capacity.

The wine is pumped over the skins, with maceration up to 20 days, and malolactic is encouraged before the wine goes into oak for up to 21 months. The wine is racked four times in the first year, after which blending is done. It is fined with egg white before bottle unfiltered, with the grand vin Chateau Palmer seeing 21 months in 45% new oak.

A second wine called Alter Ego de Palmer is made, seeing 17 months in oak which are 25-40% new. Also, there is a white starting in the 2007 vintage, in a miniscule quantity of only 75 cases. Another special wine is introduced in 2004, a blend called Historical XIX Century Wine, with a Hermitage wine of between 250 to 300 cases.

I have recently tasted the 2001 vintage of the grand vin and 2003 vintage of the second wine, and below are my tasting notes:

Appearance

Bright and clear, the wine has medium intensity ruby color, with legs.

Nose
Clean, it has medium intensity aromas of black fruit such as blackberry and dark plum, kernel notes of mocha, pungent spice of licorice, floral notes of violet, oak notes of cedar, hints of maturity notes of forest floor and savory. The wine is developing.

Palate

Dry, it has medium acidity, medium tannin of ripe and silky texture. Medium level in alcohol, it has medium body and medium intensity flavors of black fruit such as black cherry and plum, oak notes of cedar and some vanilla, some floral notes of violet. It has a medium (+) finish.

Conclusion

Very good Margaux with reasonable concentration on the nose, showing a wide range of characters in a subtle and elegant manner, the wine has a balanced and nice palate, demonstrating the elegance of the appellation with the typical floral notes and accompanying with a long finish. Ready to drink now, the wine can be further developed for another 2-3 years.

Appearance

Bright and clear, the wine has deep intensity ruby color, with rims turning to garnet, and legs.

Nose

Clean, it has medium intensity aromas of black fruit such as black cherry and dark plum, floral notes of violet, maturity notes of savory, herbaceous notes of mint and blackcurrant leaf and sweet spice of cinnamon. The wine is developing.

Palate
Dry, it has medium acidity, medium (+) tannin of ripe and velvety texture. Medium level in alcohol, it has medium body and medium intensity flavors of black fruit such as blackberry and plum, oak notes of cedar, some floral notes of violet. It has a medium finish.

Conclusion

Good quality Margaux, with a reasonably concentrated nose showing good complexity, the wine has a fine balance and an elegant style, with the floral notes typical of the Margaux appellation. The palate is equally refined with fair intensity and length. Ready to drink now and not intend for further ageing, but can keep for another 2-3 years.