2014年3月4日 星期二

Chateau Poujeaux


Moulis is one of the two lesser communes of the Medoc with no classed growth, and Chateau Poujeaux is one of the most famous for this commune, with the history able to trace back to the 16th century, when La Salle de Poujeaux was under the ownership of Gaston de L’Isle, who also owned Chateau Latour and responsible for constructing Chateau de la Riviere.

Later on there were many changes of ownership, including Marquis Francois-Etienne de Brassier, who also owned Chateau Beychevelle. In 1806 it was purchased by M Castaing, whose family continued to run the estate at the 1855 classification. The estate was later divided among the three siblings, and was not reunited until the 20th century when it was in the hands of the Theil family.

Francois Theil purchased one third of the original estate in 1921, and his son Jean Theil was successful in bringing the three portions together again. In 1932 it was highly ranked in the Cru Bourgeois classification, remaining the case with the 2003 revision, where it was ranked a Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel.

The ranking was short-lived however, when the classification was annulled in 2007. In 2008 it was sold to Philippe Cuvelier, a Parisian businessman who had acquired Clos Fourtet. There are 52 hectares of vineyards, on Gunzian gravel that surrounds Grand Poujeaux.

The vines are 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot, with average vine age of 35 years. Planting density is 10,000 vines/ha, with manual harvesting and fermentation in temperature controlled vats with maceration up to 28 days.

The wine spends up to one year in oak, of which 50% are new each year, with clarification done using egg-white but no filtration. The grand vin is Chateau Poujeaux, with about 30000 cases produced and a second wine called La Salle de Poujeaux as well.

I have recently tasted the 2000 vintage and below is my tasting note:

Appearance
Bright and clear, the wine is of deep intensity ruby color, with garnet rims and legs.

Nose
Clean, with medium (+) intensity aromas of black fruit such as blackcurrant, blackberry and bilberry, oak notes of cedar and smoke, pungent spice of licorice, maturity notes of savory. The wine is developing.

Palate
Dry with medium (+) acidity, the wine has medium (+) tannin, ripe and velvety in texture. Medium in alcohol, it has medium (+) body with medium intensity flavors of black fruit such as blackcurrant and blackberry, herbal notes of angelica, mineral notes of earth, kernel notes of coffee, pungent spice of licorice. The wine has a medium finish.

Conclusion
Good quality Moulis with tremendously ripe black fruit characters, particularly strong in blackcurrant, having good concentration and reasonable complexity, the wine is of robust structure with a high tannin but already smooth out and velvety, and overall a wine of substance with palate showing reasonable complexity and intensity. The only slight disappointment is the finish is pretty mediocre. Nevertheless it is a good wine and ready to drink now, and can be maintained for another 2-3 years.

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