The
estate is located at the south-eastern tip of St-Julien, close to the town of
Beychevelle, neighboring Chateau St-Pierre and Gloria, and less than a mile
from the Gironde to the east. The origin of the estate lies in the seigneurie
of Lamarque, which was in the hands of the Grailly family in the early 15th
century.
Later it
was passed to the Foix-Candale family in 1446, who also owned d’Issan. Under
the tenure of this family the property was known as Chateau de Medoc. In 1587
the land and property came into the Duc d’Epernon, Jean-Louis Nogaret de la
Valette, when he married the heiress of the estate Marguerite de Foix-Candale.
It was
said that he was responsible to rename the property as Beychevelle. As the
Governor of Guyenne, he was also an admiral of the French navy, and the ships
sailing on the Gironde were required to lower their sails in respect when they
passed in front of the estate.
The act,
baisse voile in French, led to the name Beychevelle but there are doubts about
its authenticity, as ships would lower the sails naturally when they approached
the port. The title of the estate was later passed to the next generation, and
his son Bernard left behind a big debt when he died, ending with the sales of
the estate, to Duc de Rendan in 1642.
In turn
it was passed to the Abbadie family, which under their direction the vineyard
was established. When they sold the estate to Marquis Francois-Etienne de
Brassier, the new owner built the chateau, completing it in 1757 and also
reunited much of the estate which were sold off after Duc d’Epernon’s death,
plus building a vat house.
His son Francois-Arnaud succeeded and his descendants continued to control the estate through the Revolution, but a large portion was cleaved off and purchased by Bergeron, who also owned Ducru-Beacaillou, with others absorbed into St-Pierre. Francois-Arnaud fleed the country when he killed a man in a duel, and what was left with the Brassier family came to his sister, before selling to Jacques Conte in 1800.
The
estate was then sold to Pierre-Francois Guestier, mayor of St-Julien, in 1825,
who also managed Langoa and Leoville-Barton, and got the estate ranked a fourth
growth in the 1855 classification. He later sold the property to Armand Heine
in 1874, then to the wealthy Achille-Fould family through the marriage of his
daughter.
The next
three generations did not bring dramatic improvement in quality of the wine,
but in 1984 a large number of shares were sold to Grands Millesimes de France,
the pension fund for the French civil servants. Later they bought all the
remaining shares and then sold 40% to Japanese group Suntory, who also purchased
Lagrange in 1983. The investment brought an improved quality as evident in
recent vintages.
The deep
Garonne gravel soils account for 90 hectares, planted with 62% Cabernet
Sauvignon, 31% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. Average vine age
is 25 years, with planting density of 10000 vines per hectare. Fermentation is
temperature controlled, with ageing of 18 months in oak which is 50% new, with
fining and no filtering.
The
grand vin is Chateau Beychevelle with typical production of 25000 cases, and a
second wine Admiral de Beychevelle of 12500 cases. There is a Haut-Medoc wine
from plots bordering St-Julien, Brulieres de Beychevelle.
I have
recently tasted the 2004 vintage and below is my tasting note:
Appearance
Bright
and clear, the wine is of deep intensity ruby color, with garnet rims and legs.
Nose
Clean,
with medium (+) intensity aromas of black fruit such as blackcurrant and black
cherries, pungent spice of licorice, oak notes of toast, animal notes of
farmyard, kernel notes of milk chocolate, mineral notes of graphite, hints of maturity
notes like wet leaves. The wine is developing.
Palate
Dry with
medium acidity, the wine has medium (+) tannin, ripe and silky in texture. Medium
in alcohol but a bit warming, it has medium (+) body with medium intensity
flavors of black fruit such as black cherries and blackcurrant, oak notes of
cedar, kernel notes of chocolate, sweet spice of nutmeg. The wine has a medium
finish.
Conclusion
Good
quality St-Julien with an intense nose showing good complexity, the wine has an
elegant harmony, with the different elements well-balancing each other to
provide an enjoying taste on the palate, with reasonable concentration in the
flavors and a fair length on the finish. Ready to drink now, the wine can
further develop for another 2-3 years.
沒有留言:
張貼留言