Wineshark HK Restaurant Review - The Aubrey

This izakaya bar / restaurant is on 25/F of Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong, as is recognized as one of Asia’s 50 Best Bars. Arriving in the early evening the staff shows us to our table, first passing through the drinking area with a large bar in the middle, before coming to the dining area.

Our table is on the window side, commanding a nice view from the rooftop of this historic hotel, looking out to the Victoria Harbour and Tsim Sha Tsui. While the construction in the Central harbour front may not be that appealing, with the sunset it is still a nice view to enjoy.

The design of the izakaya has a Southeast Asia vibe, featuring some plants hanging from the ceiling, and the use of wood and rattan furniture, reminded me a bit of Ming Pavilion we visited earlier. I decide to order the Signature Izakaya Menu ($1,300) and also the premium beverage pairing ($798).

To begin is a glass of Champagne Pierre Gimonnet & Fils Cuis 1er Cru Brut Blanc de Blancs, with good minerality and lively acidity, the champagne has a nice fizziness, refreshing citrus and green apple taste, and is both appetizing and good match with the starter and sushi.

The first course is Signature Oyster, with the raw oyster added with some sea urchin and salmon roes, served in a ponzu sauce. All the ingredients are very fresh, with the oyster creamy, the sea urchin sweet, and have a clean taste. The only improvement I want is on the sauce, which has been added with soy sauce and overly salty to go with the ikura and uni in my opinion.

Next comes the Sashimi and Sushi Platter. There are three sushi featuring Madai (sea bream), Ebi (prawn) and Engawa (flounder skirt), with also an assortment of sashimi including Kinmedai (Spendid Alfonsino), Hamachi (Japanese amberjack), Aji (Japanese horse mackerel), and Hotate (scallop). Frankly it cannot compare with the quality of sushi restaurants we normally visit, but still they are not bad, just perhaps not the best.

The second wine is an interesting one, from Diamond Shuzo in Yamanashi, Japan. The 2020 Chanter YA Muscat Bailey A Ycarre Cuvee K is made from indigenous grape, with low tannin but a good fragrance of delicious red fruit, candy and floral. An easy-drinking red wine.

The third course, A4 Miyazaki Wagyu Sando, is a signature of the restaurant. Sandwiched between a thick and nicely toasted bread is a thick wagyu, cooked to medium rare level, juicy and wonderful in taste. The delicious fat is absorbed by the toast, without making it messy when picking up by hand to enjoy. My favourite dish in the evening.

The third wine is a Japanese sake, from Kitanishi Shuzo in Saitama. The AGEO Junmai Daiginjo is an unfiltered, unpasteurized sake, made using rice from Saitama. It is a full-bodied sake with rich rice fragrance, fruity, having a clean aftertaste. Good pairing with the miso used in the next course.

The fourth course is Sustainable Miso Glazed Black Cod. The fish fillet has a nice umami taste from the miso, with the glazing process vitalizing the fish oil to add extra depth of flavours. On the side are some pickled plum and a miso dressing. Simple but delicious.

To enjoy with the fish there is also a Mushroom Fried Rice. The fried rice is cooked well, with each kernel distinct and separate, seasoned appropriately. There is a mushroom and poached egg on top. It is not bad in taste, but I would prefer it to be less oily.

There is also a Miso Glazed Eggplant included. The eggplant is grilled nicely, tender and do not feel dry-out, connecting with the miso glazed cod for good harmony in flavours. There are some crisps scattered on top to provide a contrast in texture. A good one.

The dessert is a White Miso Souffle, with some matcha sprinkled on top. The souffle is fluffy and even without adding the coconut ice-cream or yuzu sauce provided on the side it is of appropriate sweetness already. A yuzu shot is prepared to enjoy with the dessert. A nice finale.

The bill on the night is $3,804. Service is good, and the staff helpfully explains to us the difference between the two izakaya sets available. Food quality is reasonable, but perhaps not meeting my expectation in the context of Mandarin Oriental. The place has a very different vibe than the traditional izakaya also. So perhaps as an up-scale place to enjoy some nice drinks it is a good place, but for food there are better choices.