Coming tonight to visit Chef Zinc again, the first thing I notice is that he has moved to the other side of the restaurant, the section used to operate by Chef Mori, but now there is the clear sign with the letter Z indicated.
With a bigger space, the L-shaped counter can accommodate 10 customers, and we can also see the kitchen and the activities inside through the glass wall. Saying greetings to Chef Zinc, we are seated and eagerly await the feast he has prepared.
Following Chef Zinc’s recommendation of sake pairing, I start with くどき上手 白鶴錦33 純米大吟醸 生詰 ($250). On the label apart from the turtle which associates with the brewery, there is also a tsuru, or crane, which relates to the special rice 白鶴錦 used to make the sake. Very well-balanced.
The first course is Hirame 平目. The Olive Flounder is caught in Lamma Island, and apart from the wonderful bite, what is truly amazing is its flavours, much richer than others I have eaten in other places, even without dipping the ponzu sauce. Excellent.
The second course is another local-caught fish Koganesimaaji 黄金島鰺. or Golden Trevally. From the look of the sushi and its texture remind me of shima aji. The taste is sweet with nice umami flavours. Very good.
The next sake I try くどき上手 無愛想 播州山田錦22 純米大吟醸 生詰 ($200). Polishing the rice to a very fine level of 22%, this sake I like even more than the first one because of its richer banana and fruity notes, and the smooth palate.
Since we have seated, I saw the staff in the kitchen has been busy picking the meat from the crab, and now those crab meat is used to prepare our fourth course, Kurigani 栗蟹. Kneading into sushi, the Helmet Crab is very sweet in taste. I cannot help to hope that there can be an encore. Excellent.
Serving on a very thin but crisp pastry is the fifth course, Ankimo 鮟肝, with the pan-fried Monkfish Liver on a Hokkaido pumpkin puree and a homemade balsamic vinegar sauce, achieving the perfect balance of sweetness, acidity, savoury and umami. Excellent.
The sixth course is the local Fuedai 星點笛鯛 sushi. The Star Snapper is caught in Lamma Island, with a nice fattiness, and the soft and smooth texture is also very pleasant. I like the sweetness from the flesh and its fattiness. Very good.
Moving to the third sake, it is くどき上手 酒未来 純米吟醸 ($200). The sake rice is the special and rare variety 酒未来 that took 18 years of research and effort to develop, based on the back label, and I found it has a stronger alcohol taste than the last couple of sakes I tried. Clean and sharp.
The seventh course continues to feature Fuedai 星點笛鯛, but Chef Zinc has made a bowl dish, with slow-cooked Star Snapper, grilled Shiitake, and daikon, in a broth made by the fish bones. The sweetness of the radish is amazing, without any fibre, and the rich taste of the fish unbelievable. The flavours are so good I finish every drop of the broth. Excellent.
The Bafun-uni 馬糞雲丹 Sushi comes next in the eighth course. The Hokkaido Bafun Sea Urchin has an appealing orange colour, each piece uniform in size and shape, and very sweet. The nori wrapping the gunkan is crisp, another example of their attention to details. Excellent.
As snack for the sake, Chef Zinc has prepared some Karasumi 唐墨, with the homemade Salted Mullet Roe soaked in plum wine, with one piece grilled over charcoal and the other piece without. The flavours are quite different. I prefer the grilled for its nice smoky note and drier texture. Very good.
Coming to the fourth sake, くどき上手 出羽燦々33% 純米大吟釀 生酒 ($200) has a smooth and clean palate, good vibrancy with the acidity and is a great food-pairing sake in my opinion, versatile for sushi and cooked food.
The tenth course is Kinmedai 金目鯛 Sushi. The Splendid Alfonso comes from Chiba, and I have noticed Chef Zinc has marinated it briefly before making the sushi. On the bite, the fish oil seeps out to infuse the mouth with the wonderful flavours. Excellent.
The eleventh course is Ishigakidai 石垣鯛 Sushi, with this locally caught Spotted Knifejaw one of my favourites in the evening, with a firm yet very smooth texture, highly flavourful with good umami. The quality of the fish is truly amazing, and I applaud Chef Zinc for his effort to find them. Excellent.
Next is Fugu Shirako 河豚白子, with the Grilled Blowfish Milt having a sensational melting texture that is rich and creamy, with nice umami taste. Paired with the black truffle sauce and plenty of fresh truffle shavings, the complex combination is truly phenomenal. Excellent.
The final sake I have for the night is くどき上手 亀仙人 純米大吟醸 ($200). This is a sake made from the rare rice 亀の尾 in a two-staged brewing process, with a deep melon flavour and light sweetness, a style that I like very much.
The thirteenth course is Hotategai 帆立貝 wrapped in pancetta. The Hokkaido Scallop is pan-fried to perfection, soft and with great umami flavours, with the pancetta adding a bit of savoury note. The thick sauce, made from dashi and scallops, enhances the dish. At the bottom are some kumquat pieces cooked in sugar syrup, in kanroni style, with the tastes harmonizing well. Excellent.
The fourteenth course is another local fish, the prized Fourfinger Threadfin 馬友 Sushi, with Chef Zinc grilling it to release the fish oil, highly fragrant, delicious with a rich taste. The fish is very large, 14 catties in size, and really a must-try if you happen to come by. Excellent.
Next is Otoro 大とろ Sushi. The Fatty Tuna comes from Oma, the famous fishing village in Aomori, with the fish very large in size, weighing 267kg. The rich fish oil, seeping out from each bite, together with the softness of the flesh, testify why this is regarded by many Japanese as their favourite cut. Excellent.
The last piece of sushi is Anago 穴子. The Conger Eel has a melting-in-the-mouth texture, with the thick sauce and the sansho leaf the perfect condiment, providing a satisfactory and contented completion for the sushi set. Very good.
The Soup is made with Mushroom, and on opening the lid we can already smell the wonderful fragrance. Intense on flavours, the pig jowl meat helps to give a bit of savoury and fatty flavours to the soup, serving at the right temperature, warms our stomachs. Very good.
Then it is the Homemade Tamagoyaki, with Chef Zinc making it a circular shape, ensuring everyone can enjoy the side for its crispier texture. The Egg Omelette batter is mixed with seafood to give subtle flavours of the shrimp and fish, but not masking the taste of the eggs. Together with the vanilla butter I notice it brings a big smile to every customer. Excellent.
The last course is Hojicha Panna Cotta, with the roasted tea pudding having a delicate toasty note, while the tea flavours keep seeping out from the soft pudding, with the sweetness just right and not excessive. A wonderful dessert to wrap up the whole evening. Very good.
Service is very good, with Chef Zinc taking turns to
interact with all the customers, making sure everyone feels happy and attended
for a wonderful dining experience. The bill on the night is $6,435 and it is
well-worth the money. It is great to see how Chef Zinc has moved away from the
shadow of Chef Mori and established himself so well. As a fan, I look forward
to his continued exceptional performance in the local sushi scene.
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