Wineshark HK Restaurant Review - Radical Chic

This Italian restaurant is located on the rooftop of ICC, the tallest building in Hong Kong. Open since August 2021, I had some apprehension visiting on the night, as my prior experience when dining in other restaurants at the same location was just mediocre, with the restaurants only leveraging their amazing view but the food was unfortunately not of top notch.

Designed to maximize the view, all tables were placed along the windows. The ambiance was actually very nice, with soft carpet, comfortable lighting that was not too dark, and a veil serving as soft separation between tables to create a bit of privacy. Our table was however looking out to the Yau Ma Tei typhoon shelter so it was not of the best position. 

Have pre-paid for the Radical & Chic Degustation Menu ($1,580 each), I opted for wine pairing ($980) as well. Starting with the amuse bouche, Tomato Foie Gras, the chef used strawberry jelly wrapping a piece of foie gras and decorated with oregano leaves on top to re-create the look of a cherry tomato. The ‘edible soils’ on the side further added a touch of fun. The wine paired was Champagne Sanger Generosite Noire Blanc de Noirs.

There was a choice on the first course, with my wife choosing Red Prawn while I opted for Barbeque Kinki Fish, Cucumber Jus and Asparagus ($388 supplement). The prized Japan deep-sea channel rockfish was lightly grilled on charcoal to give a slight crispy skin, with the fish oil exemplified by the heat to give a nice fragrance and taste. The asparagus and cucumber on the sides, plus the dressing made from basil oil and cucumber, helped to balance the oil of the fish. The wine paired was Castello di Monsanto Fabrizio Bianchi Chardonnay 2017.

The second course was Lobster Tortello and Tomato Consommé. Prepared using four different types of tomato, the broth was clear and very flavourful, with refreshing acidity. The lobster tortellini were quite nicely done, with cheese added to the fillings to increase the complexity of its taste. The wine paired was Bressan Verduzzo 2017.

The third course was the chef’s specialty, Shallot and Orange Tart, beautifully arranged to look like a flower. The oranges were of two different varieties. Cutting out a slice, it was served together with 36 Month Comte Fondue, with the creamy and rich sauce complementing well with the crisp tart base, with the crunchy shallot giving a bit of contrast. The wine paired was ColleStefano Verdicchio di Matelica 2020. 

There was also a choice for the fourth course. I have opted for Risotto with Red Radicchio while my wife had the A5 Wagyu Beef Dumpling ($388 supplement). The risotto was cooked using the radicchio broth to give a nice pink colour, with a nice bite. The radicchio on top had been cooked in three different methods to balance its bitterness. The wine paired was Ettore Germano Barolo Serralunga d’Alba 2017. 

Coming to the main course, there was again two choices and this time both of us had ordered Seared Tuna Akami. Despite coming from the leaner section on the back, the tuna still had decent fat level, with the umami flavours integrated with the sea urchin on top, further enhanced with the shaved black truffle and Madeira sauce. The wine paired was Calmarossa Etna Rosso 2016.

Closing with dessert, my wife had decided to have Chocolate Textures with Raspberry and it was Cheese Selection ($128 supplement) for me. The five different types of cheese were all quite good, and for fans of cheese this would be the better option. The wine paired was Franz Haas Moscato Rosa 2018. 

Service was good, with the staff friendly and joyful, and they had done a decent job in explaining each dish. The choice of wine was not impressive though, but considering the price there should not be a lot of expectation. The bill on the night was $5,091 after the pre-paid discount. In my opinion, it was a bit over-priced, especially given the portion size and the not very impressive food quality. Recalling my apprehension earlier, is it a déjà vu?