2016年1月13日 星期三

Cascina Fontana

Located in the heart of Barolo region, in the commune of Monforte d’Alba, about 15 km from Alba. The Fontana family has been winegrowers for at least six generations. Today winemaker Mario Fontana oversees the entire cycle from growing grapes and tending the vines, to winemaking, bottling, maturation and sales.

Mario and Luisa Fontana owns 4 hectares of vineyards, which are dedicated to the classic grape varieties of Langhe: Nebbiolo, Dolcetto and Barbera. The vineyards are located in some of the most favored crus in different communes.

In Castiglione Falletto, the estate has parcels Villero and Valletti, planted with Nebbiolo to make Barolo, while the vineyard Pozzo has both Nebbiolo and Barbera. In Gallinotto, located between the town of Barolo and commune of La Morra, is cultivated with Nebbiolo as well as a small percentage of Dolcetto.


The Vigna del Castello vineyard in Sinio sees Nebbiolo planted along the lower, more protected rows where the soil is white clay, then progressively higher there are Barbera and finally Dolcetto. The Dolcetto is aged in stainless steel vats and are bottled twice a year, first before the new harvest, and the second in the following winter/spring, with the first having slightly higher acidity and freshness, while the latter is rounder and smoother.

Barbera is more complex than Dolcetto, with greater body, extract, and a higher acidity and tannin, with the grape present in all of the region’s wine zones, with a huge range of styles. After fermentation the maturation is in oak barriques to dampen the acidity, with the oak of 5-6 years to minimize the flavors of new wood in the wines, and seeing another year in vat and bottle before release.

Grapes destined to become Vigna del Castello are vinified for a shorter period than those to become Barolo in order to preserve aroma and fruit. The Barolo is produced from Nebbiolo grown on steep hills in the heart of the Barolo wine zone, notably on the three selected crus, with grapes from each site vinified separately.

Once fermentation is completed, the wines are assembled and aged for two years in 25hl botte, large casks made from Slavonian oak, and then a further year in stainless steel vat before release.

I have recently tasted the 2006 Barolo and below is my tasting note:

Appearance
Bright and clear, it has light reddish-brown color, with garnet rims and legs.

Nose
Clean, with medium intensity of red fruit of cherry, kernel notes of chocolate, mineral notes of tar, floral notes of rose, animal notes of leather, maturity notes of truffle, underripeness notes of leafiness, pungent spice of licorice, dried fruit of cooked fruit. The wine is developing.

Palate
Dry with medium (+) acidity, the wine has high tannin of ripe and velvety, with medium (+) alcohol and medium (+) body, demonstrating medium intensity of flavors including red fruit of raspberry, mineral notes of tar, kernel notes of chocolate, dried fruit of stewed fruit, floral notes of rose. The wine has a medium (+) finish.

Conclusion

Good quality Barolo with a reasonably intense nose of good complexity, the wine has the typical varietal high acidity, with a robust style as evidenced by the high tannin and alcohol, yet the wine has a nice finesse. With decent concentration in flavors and a fairly long finish, it is ready to drink now though can benefit from further ageing of another 5-7 years.

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