Graves and Entre-Deux-Mers

The soil in Graves has the ability to make both red and white equally well, as seen by Chateau de Chantegrive in Podensac and Rahoul in Portets. Clos Floridene at Pujols-sur-Ciron and Chateau du Seuil are good for its oak-aged dry white from the Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon grapes.

However, the proportion of white in the Graves AC is only about a quarter and continues to fall. Most of the wines sold as Bordeaux AC are produced in Entre-Deux-Mers, the land between the Garonne and Dordogne rivers.

The name of the area is reserved for dry white produced there, in much smaller quantity. Bordeaux Superieur is similar to Bordeaux AC with only a higher alcohol level.

Many producers are now tending their vineyards more carefully, reducing yield to produce good quality wines. Some of the more successful producers include the Lurton family’s Chateau Bonnet, Despagne family’s Chateau Tour de Mirambeau, Courcelle family’s Chateau Thieuley and Chateau Toutigeac in the sub-appellation Haut-Benauge.

Many of the producers also make even better dry whites than reds, and Chateau de Sours has managed to sell its deep pink rose en-primeur. Further north the limestone soil is rather similar to the St-Emilion appellation, and the Despagnes has created Girolate, a hand-made garage wine from Merlot.

Chateau de Reignac has also commanded high prices due to the dedication of its owner Yves Vatelot. Pierre Lurton, the winemaker at Cheval Blanc and d’Yquem, also produces a wine in the region via Chateau Marjosse.

The Premieres Cotes de Bordeaux encircles the sweet white appellations of Cadillac, Loupiac and Ste-Croix-du-Mont, is producing good sweet wines itself under the Cadillac appellation while the dry is sold as Bordeaux AC. Denis Dubourdieu, the famous oenologist, is making good white and red at Chateau Reynon while Chateau Fayau is keeping up the local tradition of sweet fruity white.

The plan to introduce the umbrella AC Cotes de Bordeaux now is in place, comprising the former appellations of Premieres Cotes de Bordeaux, Cotes de Bourg, Premieres Cotes de Blaye, Cotes de Castillon and Cotes de Francs. The objective is to increase the public recognition.

In Ste-Croix-du-Mont, the three chateaux of Loubens, du Mont and La Rame are making great efforts to improve quality. While in Loupiac, Chateau Loupiac-Gaudiet and de Ricaud are taking the risk to produce truly sweet wines instead of the semi-sweet ones.

Cotes de Bordeaux-St-Macaire, a white wine is rarely seen outside the area. To the north of Barsac lies Cerons, a separate appellation long forgotten but finding new life with the white and red under the Graves appellation.

I have tasted the following wines from Graves and the different appellations mentioned here so far:

Chateau de Chantegrive	2009
Chateau Haura	2007
Chateau Loupiac-Gaudiet	2007