Vermentino

Vermentino is found throughout Italy, from Liguria to Sardinia, totaling about 3000 ha. It was thought to be imported from Spain and a potential subvariety of Malvasia, but the variety was actually not found in Spain. There are as many as 40 versions that can be found in Italy.

The best can be found in Tuscany and Sardinia, with its own DOCG - Vermentino di Sardegna. It is mid ripening and seems to benefit from proximity to sea, with early budding and sensitive to spring frost. The signature characters are lemons, nuts and leaves, with racy acidity and robust structure.

In Italy the varietal wines are fragrant, sometimes more mineral than floral, fruity and gently spicy with moderate alcohol, suitable for early drinking. It is not for ageing.

Also grown in Languedoc-Roussillon, particularly Herault, Vermentino is regarded as the same as Rolle in Provence, amounting to 3453 ha, mostly in Var. It is blended with Roussanne and Carignan Blanc by Domaine du Pujol, producing an iconic wine.

Widely planted in Corsica, as Malvoisie de Corse, the grapes are harvested early to retain acidity. In California the varieties are produced by Tablas Creek in Paso Robles and Mahoney in Carneros. A little is grown in Australia, with the most notable being Yalumba and Brown Brothers. The best producers are Le Macchiole, Pedra Majore.

I have recently tasted Mitolo Jester Vermentino 2010 and below is my tasting note:

Appearance: Bright and clear, this wine is of pale lemon-green color, with legs.

Nose: Clean, the nose shows medium (-) intensity aromas of floral fruit such as lemon blossom, citrus fruit of lemon and grapefruit, green fruit such as green apple, sweet spice of ginger, herbaceous notes of straw, mineral notes of petrol. The wine is youthful.

Palate: Dry, it has medium (+) acidity and a low alcohol level, with a medium (-) body, showing medium (-) intensity flavors of citrus fruit such as lemon, floral notes of acacia, green fruit of apple, sweet spice of ginger. The wine has a medium (-) finish.

Conclusion: Acceptable quality Australian Vermentino, with fairly low concentration of reasonable complexity, the palate has a good acidity but quite light on the flavors and lacking complexity. Despite the low alcohol level it did feel quite warming on the contrary. The length is also quite short. Ready to drink now this wine is not suitable for ageing.