2013年9月22日 星期日

Hospices de Beaune


Hospices de Beaune is a charitable medical foundation, with holdings include the Hotel-Dieu; the Hospices de la Charite, a hospital founded by Rousseau-Deslandes family in 1645; the Centre Hospitalier, an intensive-care facility completed in 1971; and Centre Nicolas Rolin, a long- and medium-term care centre, opened in 1984.

The Hospices was commissioned on 1443 by Nicolas Rolin, chancellor to Philippe le Bon, Duke of Burgundy, completed in only eight years. The Hotel-Dieu has a fabulously patterned, multicoloured roof line, with a well-preserved Gothic architecture, it is one of the most popular tourist attractions.

The Hospices owns a number of vineyards, and the income derived from the wines help to provide the medical facilities to the local people. First donation of vines to the Hospices dated from 1457, when Jehan de Clomoux of Beaune bequeathed land in Corton.

For hundreds of years people continued to donate vines, which also appears on the labels of the cuvees still produced under their name. Currently Roland Masse and a team of 23 vignerons care for the more than 60 ha vines, adopting traditional viticulture and vinification, with around two weeks of maceration and fermentation in tanks, and occasional pigeage.

Most of the wines are cuvees instead of individual vineyards, with blends combining village plots with premiers crus. The wines are aged in new barrels because of the nature the wine is sold, so the style will be quite powerful, with 100% new oak, low yields and ripe grapes.

In 1859 the administrative commission decided to carry out the selling of the wines through auction, and the practice is carried on until today, except in 1956 and 1968 when the quality was deemed too low. Recently it was Christie’s which took up the auction.

I have recently tasted the following wines:

Beaune 1er Cru Cuvee Nicolas Rolin 2010

Appearance
Bright and clear, this wine is of light ruby color, with legs.

Nose
Clean, the nose shows medium (+) intensity aromas of maturity notes of savory, red fruit of cranberry and raspberry, floral notes of violet, kernel notes of chocolate. The wine is developing.

Palate
Dry with medium acidity, medium (-) tannin of ripe of smooth texture, the wine has medium alcohol though feeling a bit warming and is of medium (-) body with medium intensity (+) flavors of red fruit such as raspberry and red cherry, oak notes of vanilla, dairy notes of cream, kernel notes of popcorn, oak notes of toast. The wine has a medium finish.

Conclusion
Good quality Beaune premier cru with a good intense nose showing surprising development despite its young age. Not particularly complex but it did show a good glimpse of the different fruit, oak and maturity characters to make the wine interesting. On the palate it is a bit too warming despite the ‘normal’ alcohol level, with good concentration and complexity, plus a reasonable finish. It is ready to drink now though can benefit from further ageing of another 3-5 years.

Volnay-Santenots 1er Cru Cuvee Gauvain 2010

Appearance
Bright and clear, this wine is of light ruby color, with legs.

Nose
Clean, the nose shows medium intensity aromas of some black fruit of blackberry, red fruit such as red cherry and raspberry, floral notes of iris, sweet spice of cumin, oak notes of cedar, mineral notes of earth. The wine is youthful.

Palate
Dry with medium acidity, medium (-) tannin of ripe of smooth texture, the wine has medium alcohol and is of medium body with medium intensity flavors of red fruit such as raspberry, red cherry and plum, oak notes of cedar, floral notes of iris, The wine has a medium finish.

Conclusion
Good quality Volnay with a reasonably intense nose, with a fair complexity the wine is subtle but elegant, and on the palate it shows also reasonable concentration, though a bit less complex. Having a fair length, this wine is too early to drink now and will need about another 2-3 years.

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