St-Aubin

St-Aubin is a tranquil, compact village, only a few kilometers from Chassagne and Puligny-Montrachet. There are just under 300 souls inhibiting the village, and most are working in the service of wine. The origin of the village date back a while, but the archaeological findings seem to confirm that there were people living there in the Bronze Ages.

St-Aubin also comprises of nearby Gamay, which is a small village famous for the grape-variety which gives its name. But nowadays it was superseded by Pinot Noir and very few Gamay are still growing there. There are no less than 123 ha of red and white premiers crus.

There are two separate vineyard sites: the Montagne du Ban can find some better premier cru vineyards like Les Castets, Les Frionnes and Sur le Sentier du Clou, and they are mostly on limestone marl. The second swathe comprises of all premiers crus lies on Roche du May, above Gamay. The soil is more varied here, with limestones admixed with clay on the lower slopes and more obvious limestones on the upper. Here have the finest white premiers crus of Les Murgers des Dents de Chien, La Chateniere and En Remilly.

The wines here are well worth investigation. The reds are generally robust and earthy, developing well in 5-10 years in good vintage. The whites, however, are even better which can age and develop to lime-blossom, nuts and earthy flavors, but can still be consumed young with good fruit and freshness. The prices are much more affordable, unlike other white Burgundy, with sound, abundant characters.

Best producers in St-Aubin are Gerard Thomas et Filles, Hubert Lamy, Marc Colin and Henri Prudhon. Some negociants and growers also make good St-Aubin including Vincent Girardin, Jadot, the Moreys and Pierre-Yves Colin.

Wines that I tasted or owned from this village:

• Bernard Morey et Fils, St-Aubin 1er Cru Les Charmois 2004
• Deux Montille, St-Aubin 1er Cru Sur Gamay 2007