Cyprus and Commandaria

When Cyprus joined the EU in 2004, the wine industry entered an era of renaissance. Subsidies were available to help export in bulk to make cheap drinks, with the worst vineyards being demolished. The four biggest wineries (SODAP, KEO, ETKO and Loel) are moving their facilities away from Limassol to the more promising regions, which used to be dominated by smaller producers without modern expertise. By 2006 an appellation of origin scheme is being developed.

Cyprus’ vineyard area is divided into 6 regions: Pitsilia, Marathasa, Commandaria, Troodhos South, Troodhos East and Troodhos North. Pitsilia and northern part of Commandaria have igneous soil, elsewhere being sudimentary limestone. Climate is Mediterranean with mild winters and hot summers, with rainfall mostly in winter months. Drip irrigation is permitted. Climatic hazards mostly come from hail or frost in higher-altitude vineyards, plus powdery mildew. Phylloxera never reached Cyprus so vines are ungrafted. Most are bush-trained.

Over 70% plantings are of indigenous varieties, with about 3/4 plantings are Mavro, which gives high yield, with pale, unattractive colours for a red wine. So producers often remove 40% of the juice prior to fermentation. These removed juices are commonly used for making fortified wine or grape concentrate as distillation base. Mavro can give a cherry or blackcurrant candy character when young, developing vegetal characters with 3-5 years of age. There is an iodine background flavor and are usually high in alcohol.

The second most planted grape is Xynisteri. If picked before overripe and carefully vinified, can produce aromatic wines with good balance of sugar, alcohol and acids, with an earthy flavour. Of the imported varieties, Carignan and Grenache are most widely planted. Many indigenous varieties have much greater quality potential but less popular because of cultivation difficulties. Almost all Cypriot wines made from four large firms and are heavily reliant on export markets. Main market for Cypriot fortified wine is UK. DOC style rules were incorporated, with Commandaria the first wine to be granted full legal protection.

Most famous Cyprus wine is Commandaria, made of raisined Mavro and Xynisteri, in 14 designated villages on the lower slopes of Troodos. Almost four times the sugar content than port, the best have a fresh grapiness however, with alcohol content around 15%. The name derived from the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem’s chief feudal holding called Grand Commandery, where lay the vineyard producing the wine. It is produced from sun-dried grapes. Vintage usually takes place in mid-Sep, with the juice of min. sugar of 212 g/l for Xynisteri and 258 g/l for Mavro. The grapes were dried under sun for at least one week, the sugar content after that reached to 390 to 450 g/l. Fermentation must take place within Commandaria region, and it will stop before all sugar converted to alcohol, leaving residual sweetness and a min. alcohol content of 10%. After this stage the wine is moved to one of the large winery in Limassol to mature. The alcohol content is further increased by addition of grape spirit or wine distillate, but not to exceed 20%. It must be matured in oak casks for at least two years, but normally much longer. A small quantity of vintage Commandaria is also made. It is one of the world’s classic wines.

Wine: Etko St. Nicholas Commandaria

Region / Country: Commandaria, Cyprus

Vintage: 1998

Grape: 60% Xynisteri, 40% Mavro

ABV: 13.5%                 

Price: HK$285

Tasting Date: 20 August 2011

Official website: www.etkowines.com

Wineshark Score: 92

Medium tawny colour with greenish tints, this Commandaria exhibits intense and fully developed aromas of raisins, prune, chocolate, smoke, stewed fruit, cinnamon and caramel. Sweet, yet balanced with a good acidity, the wine has a low tannin which is ripe and of resolved texture. Fortified low alcohol level, with full body and pronounced intensity flavors of raisins, prune, chocolate, caramel, cinnamon and smoke. Overall of good quality level with complex and intense nose and palate, the diverse characters are particularly enticing. Balancing the sweetness with a good acidity to make it fresh and not cloying, the wine has a good length also. Ready to drink now and can be maintained for another 2-3 years.