Grape Variety Series 02 - Barbera

Barbera is recognized by most people as the second-best grape in Italy’s Piedmont, after Nebbiolo. However, inside Italy it has a big group of followers. It is widely planted in the country (the third most planted grapes, after Sangiovese and Montepulciano), and being blended in many different wines. It can be young and fruity, or dark and serious with barrique-aged. New oak has a good affinity to Barbera, with its cherry, sappy flavors a good match, and the oak adding another dimension of spiciness to the wine, along with the tannin to add structure and reduce the impact of its acidity. But it can also produce nice and rich characters without seeing the influence of oak. It ripens relatively late, but still before Nebbiolo. Some producers now pick Barbera late because of its high acidity. The grape has a deep colour. Its high acidity makes it ideal for warm climate, accompanied by low tannin.

Overall about half of the vineyards in Piedmont is devoted to Barbera. It is known as the ‘people’s wine’ there for its versatility and abundant production. The DOC regulations allow for a high yield which does not help the quality of this variety. Barbera d’Alba has the most complexity and power, and deeper color. Barbera d’Asti has a better elegance and finesse, with also a brighter color.

Elsewhere in Italy, Barbera also dominates much of Lombardia, along in other parts but appearing in the basic category Vino da Tavola. Beside Italy, it is quite popular in California and Argentina, mainly through the Italian immigrants settling in those places. Australia is also seeing some good examples, particularly in Barossa.

Barbera can be young and showing fresh cherry taste, or with more weight and a sour-cherry twist, or barrique-aged with more plum and rounder, having a touch of spice. But its acidity remain high no matter which style it is aimed for.

My recent tasting of a Barbera d'Asti:

Wine: Elio Perrone Mongovone Barbera d’Asti Superiore

Region / Country: Piedmonte, Italy

Vintage: 2007

Grape: 100% Barbera

ABV: 14%            

Price: HK$388

Tasting Date: 26 August 2011

Official website: www.elioperrone.it

Wineshark Score: 90

Deep purple colour Barbera with a medium intensity and developing aromas of black cherry, plum, violet, smoke, vanilla, sweet spice and medicinal notes. Relatively high in acidity, the wine has a soft and low tannin, of medium body and medium intensity in the flavors, showing characters of black cherry, oak, violet, medicinal and sweet spice. Overall of good quality with the very typical high acidity and low tannin style of the grape, the wine has a complex nose though relatively more simple palate, with the oak married very well with the Barbera characters giving it extra complexity. The reasonable intensity in aromas and flavors, as well as the length, makes this wine enjoyable in warmer climate. Ready to drink now and can be maintained for another 2-3 years.