Domaine Ramonet

 If there is a domain in Chassagne that can challenge Leflaive for the overall consistency and excellence in their wines, it is Domaine Ramonet. Started by Pierre Ramonet during the late 1920s, the vineyards have been acquired gradually from a parcel in Chassagne-Montrachet, to Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet and Saint-Aubin. Now Pierre’s grandsons, Andre and Noel, are in-charge of the overall operations.

The ‘policy’ they practiced in the vineyards is old vine and low yield. If the vines are below 12 years, the wines will be sold in bulk or declassified from premiers crus to village level. The reds from Ramonet tend to be supple and soft, suitable for relatively young consumption. Grapes are 100% destemmed and given a cold maceration prior to fermentation. Pigeage and remontage is kept minimal to extract only the gentlest tannin. The wines will be kept in 30-40% new cask for 12-15 months before bottling. The best are coming from Clos de la Boudriotte, Morgeot and Clos Saint-Jean, showing red fruits of Kirsch cherries.

The white fermentation started off in tank, and then transferred to cask, with varying proportion of new oak depending on the crus. Ramonet has never favoured batonnage, with no more than 3-4 lees-stirring. When young, the Ramonet whites have a green tinge and a modestly exotic spectrum of fruit-based aromas. The best village Puligny comes from Les Enseigneres, with excellent premiers crus Charmois (Saint-Aubin), Les Caillerets and Les Ruchottes (Chassagne-Montrachet), Champs Canet (Puligny-Montrachet).

The grands crus offer pure excellence in the Batard and Bienvenues, with the latter fresher and more aromatic when young, but the former providing a richer and more concentrated enjoyment with age. Its Le Montrachet is recognized as one of the finest examples of this grand cru. So if looking for a good quality in Chassagne, Domaine Ramonet is definitely a worthy choice.

My collection:

• Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot 2006