Wineshark Japan Trip - Mie 2025 Day 2

Day 2 

Lunch at すし久 / Visit 皇大神宮 / Stroll in おかげ横丁 / Stay at 旅荘 海の蝶

Waking up refreshed, we proceed to the restaurant Sky Dining Tenku 天空 for buffet breakfast. It has a relaxing atmosphere, with fantastic skyline views. The range of food is not that impressive, but the food quality is good.

The overall experience in this hotel is very good. The cost per night is 80,696 yen for two persons, with breakfast included. After check-out, we drive to our first destination in Mie: Okageyokocho おかげ横丁 in Ise 伊勢.

Originally, I plan to park at Ise Jingu 伊勢神宮 but found the parking is already full. Seeing a local grandma holding a sign saying parking is available, I decide to just park at her house, for 1,000 yen.

She kindly goes back into her house and brings us a map, showing the layout of Okageyokocho. In fact, the famous area is just across the road where I parked, a landmark lined with over 50 shops and restaurants, on local products and souvenirs.

During the Edo period 江戸時代, when long travel was still difficult, there was an incident in which a huge number of people flocked to Ise in just 50 days. Instead of chaos, the people of Ise warmly welcomed these travelers, with deep gratitude for the divine blessings.

Because the travelers were able to visit the shrine safely "thanks to" their hospitality, a journey to Ise Jingu eventually came to be known as an "Okage Mairi” (a pilgrimage to Ise Jingu) and hence the place got its name.

Feeling hungry, we decide to first go to Sushi Kyu すし久 for lunch. It started as a sushi restaurant by the founder Morita Kyuzo 森田久造 during Tenpo 天保 era of the Edo period. Later it was transformed into a ryokan.

The current building still retains its original appearance and was restored and renovated in 1989, with the beams in the atrium made from the wood of Uji Bridge, bestowed at the time of the shrine’s relocation in 1869.

Having made reservation online beforehand, the staff unfortunately cannot find our booking. But they helpfully arrange a table for us anyway, near the windows looking out to the beautiful Isuzu River 五十鈴川.

The sign in front of the restaurant is still the same as it was back in the old days, and the cashier, stove, water closet, and statues of a cat and a mouse lying on the beams are all nostalgic, making me think how it might look like in the Edo period.

We both order the signature Tekonezushi てこね寿し (竹) set at 2,200 yen, one of the local dishes of Ise-Shima. Originated from the time when bonito fishing was popular, fishermen in the area would mix rice with the fillets of freshly caught bonito and soy sauce.

The bonito is very tender, tasty with the mix of wasabi, soy sauce, and nori, served in a wood container. Together with some tempura, appetizer and seaweed soup, it is a complete meal which we enjoy and feel satisfied, plus very reasonably priced.

Then we proceed to Ise Jingu, which has about 2,000 years in history. Known as the ‘spiritual home’ of the Japanese people, this part is the Naiku 内宮, or ‘inner shrine’, also formally called Kotaijingu 皇大神宮.

It includes the Main Shrine plus ten auxiliary shrines, and several other shrines. Since the reign of Emperor Suinin 垂仁天皇, the ancestral deity of the imperial family, Amaterasu Omikami 天照大御神, revered as a guardian of Japan, is enshrined here.

We first need to cross Uji Bridge 宇治橋. Spanning across Isuzu River, it is the entrance of Naiku and is the separation of the sacred realm from the daily world. The bridge is over 100m long, rebuilt every twenty years as part of Shikinen Sengu 式年遷宮.

The ritual is to start with a bow at the torii gate in front of the Uji Bridge. Crossing the clear Isuzu River the lush greenery in the surrounding brings us a calm, cleansing feeling on both body and soul.

To purify oneself before praying at the shrine, one can either do it at the Temizusha 手水舎, or walking down the gentle slope to Mitarashi 御手洗場 on the side of Isuzu River and follow the same ritual of washing hands and rinsing the mouth with the pure water.

Near Mitarashi on a stone the deity Takimatsuri 瀧祭神 is enshrined, with only a fence and gate, no shrine building. It has been worshipped since ancient times as the guardian deity of Isuzu River.

We then head to Kaguraden 神楽殿 where one can get the amulets and shuin of the jingu. Further down the path and up some stone steps is the Main Shrine Kotaijingu, which enshrines the deity Amaterasu Omikami.

In Japan, there are Three Sacred Treasures inherited by the imperial family. They are the symbol of the emperor’s divinity as descendant of the deity. One of the treasures, the mirror Yata no Kagami 八咫鏡, is enshrined in the innermost part of this sanctuary.

Enclosed by four rows of wooden fences, it is off limits to public, and we can only worship the enshrined deity in front of the gate at the third row of the fence. It is also not allowed to take photos inside the area.

We continue to visit the other shrines. Mishine-no-mikura 御稲御倉 is where the rice harvested from the jingu rice fields are stored for offering to deities in rituals. Its style is derived from rice granary of ancient Japan.

Further along the path is Imbiyaden 忌火屋殿, where food is prepared to offer to deity during festivals. Geheiden 外幣殿 is used to store offerings made by people other than the Emperor.

Next, we visit Aramatsuri-no-miya 荒祭宮. It is the first auxiliary shrine of Naiku, dedicated to the violent and powerful spirit of Amaterasu Omikami. The building is the largest and second only to the Main Shrine.

Finally, we cross the bridge to Kazahinomi-no-miya 風日祈宮, which dedicated to the deities of wind and rain. The kami was also recognized for the miraculous fierce wind which wiped out the invading Mongolian soldiers against Japan in the13th century.

Leaving Kotaijingu we continue to stroll around Okageyokocho. For sake lovers, Morishita Saketen 酒場森下 内宮前店 is not to be missed, which has some premium local sake available, like the 33,000-yen 作 純米大吟醸 滴取り 智.

While the brewery is based in Hyogo and not Mie, Hakutaka Miyake 白鷹三宅商店 provides the sake in the ritual offering at Ise Jingu. Iseman Naikumae Brewery 伊勢萬内宮前酒造場 has its brewery just behind the store, using the pure water from Isuzu River to make sake.

Iseji Specialties Aji-no-Yakata 伊勢路 名産味の館 has a wide range of local delicacies, in which I like the lobster rice crackers from Ise-Ebi Senbei 三重寿庵 and marinated whelks ‘Seaside Pot’ 磯のつぼちゃん from Hukuya 福屋 the most.

With my wife being a big Snoopy fan, she has spent a lot of time in Snoopy Village on the beautiful merchandise. Feeling a bit tired, we enjoy a cup of coffee at Haikara-san はいからさん, which offers a unique Western ambience from the Meiji Restoration.

Returning to the grandma’s home to pick up our car, we drive to Umi-no-Chou 旅荘 海の蝶 in Futami 二見. With 57 rooms on two buildings, it boosts a panoramic view of the blue ocean and a lot of cherry blossom trees, with also a private beach with wide shallows.

The ryokan also has some EV-charging stations at the car park to facilitate guests driving electric vehicles. After a quick registration, the staff leads us to our room, on top floor of Shirochou-kan 白蝶館, Top Suite トップスイート Room 668.

The room has three rooms, a 12.5 mat and a 6 mat Japanese-style room, a Western-style bedroom, as well as a bath with amazing vantage. This luxurious room has a total area of 127 sqm and is the VIP room of the hotel with the best view.

From the entrance alcove the room can be divided into three sections. On the left are the two Japanese-style rooms, with the smaller one serving as a changing room but can also convert into a bedroom to accommodate more guests if needed.

The larger Japanese-style room has many nice art pieces like pottery, calligraphy, and wall upholstery. On the window side is an engawa with comfortable sofa to relax and enjoy the wonderful views, while also leading to another changing space.

In the middle section is the Western-style bedroom with lush carpet, having comfortable twin beds and another two sofas facing the window, looking down to the private beach and the glamping site in the distance.

The right section leads to the mini-bar, toilet, and bathroom. Very spacious with twin sinks, the bathing area is one of the largest I have visited, with a full-sized bathtub, a separate shower room and two bath stalls.

Going to the public bath for a refreshing dip, the Men’s Bath 漁火の湯 draws its water from Sakakibara Onsen 榊原温泉, an alkaline simple hot spring. There is indoor and outdoor bath, with also a sauna. With only a few people, it is a comfortable and relaxing bath.

Before dinner we also take the opportunity to walk around the hotel. There are many antiques and art pieces, including the two special design chairs and beautiful lanterns on display at the lift lobby of our floor.

On the first floor the brightly-coloured and intricately woven kimono, the paper partition painted with historic scenes, many hand-painted porcelain wares and plates, plus an antique wood cabinet with different figurines are among those I found most impressive.

Right beside the spacious reception lobby is a café lounge, offering free coffee and drinks till 18:00. On the morning coffee is also served here until check-out, with the amazing view of Ise-Shima as background.

Sharp at the appointed time we come to the restaurant 結. From the design we can tell it is only recently renovated. On the way in is a see-through kitchen, where we see the chefs busy in preparation, along with the fancy, modern kitchen equipment inside.

Seated in our private room, looking out to the sea, we enjoy a delicious meal, with the chef leveraging the fresh seafood from the waters off Toba 鳥羽 as well as the leading brand of Matsusaka beef to prepare a great feast.

The Appetizer 先付 is Mie Local Sake Zaku Lees Tofu 三重地酒 作 酒粕豆腐 and Unagi Sushi 鰻まぶし寿司.

Sashimi 御造 has Ise-Ebi 伊勢海老, Maguro 鮪, and Today’s Fish その日の魚.

Grilled Dish 焼物 is Awabi 鮑, prepared with Seaweed and Lobster Rice Crackers 青さと海老のおこげ, which are made in very different equipment.

I also order for each of us an additional Grilled Ise-Ebi 伊勢海老 鬼殻焼 and Grilled Awabi 鮑磯焼き at 9,500 yen and 4,620 yen each.

Steamed Dish 蒸物 is Tomato Cheese Chawanmushi トマトチーズ茶碗蒸し.

Matsusaka Beef 松阪牛 Dish is a two way, with the thicker cut enjoyed by grilling on Hot Plate Grilled while the slices are best with Sukiyaki 陶板焼きとすき鍋をご堪能ください. There are also some vegetables provided to go with the beef in the sukiyaki.

Rice 御飯 is prepared using Iga rice 伊賀米, paired with traditional Kyoto delicacies おばんざい, including Marinated Anago 穴子南蛮漬け, Spicy Eggplant 辛子茄子, and another four varieties 他四種. The Soup 留椀 is Clear Soup すまし仕立て.

Dessert 甘味 is Homemade Almond Fruit 自家製フルーツ杏仁.

With a full and contented stomach, we retire to the room and enjoy a good sleep, looking forward to visit Kumano 熊野 on the next day.