Hearing that Chef Zinc is going to compete in the TV program
‘Red Hot Chef’, today we came to Sushi Zinc to see whether we can hear some
inside news before the show goes on air. Arriving at Shau Kei Wan, we are the
first group, and able to chat with Chef Zinc a bit about the competition while
he is preparing, but he did not reveal much...
Starting with a serving of
くどき上手Jr.
の摩訶不思議ちゃん 特A
山田錦44
純米大吟醸 ($250). A very good sake for summertime with clean crispness.
The sake originally has a rice polishing ratio of 45%, but Junior has adjusted
to 44% this year, while keeping the same rice, and want his customers to see
what the difference does it bring.
The first course is a Summer Salad, featuring Nagano fruit tomato
that has good sweetness and juicy. Chef Zinc also uses the tomato to ferment
and make a paste to add on the side. Together with Akita Junsai, and some fresh
lotus seeds from Zhejiang provided by his friend, on top is the local marigold leaves
to give a bit of spiciness. Very refreshing.
The second course uses Madai. After cutting a few slices of
the Japanese seabream, they are put on top of a rich and creamy white sauce,
made from Shirako and fish bones. Further supplement with a condiment made from
grounded grilled fish roes, the delicious umami from the sauce enhances the
delicate taste of the seabream to another level. Fantastic.
The third course features Hyogo Kaki, big in size and having
a creamy texture, with a richer metallic taste than the typical Japanese
varieties. On the side Chef Zinc has prepared a green sauce made from Okinawa
bitter melon, cucumber, lily bulb, and perilla, with nice fresh flavours to
supplement the oyster.
The fourth course is Fish Tempura, with the fish Chef Zinc
mischievously saying that he would not introduce. The batter is very thin,
crisp on the outside, while keeping the flesh moist. Paired with Oita Kabosu and
seaweed salt, the sour mandarins provide a nice refreshing citrus note, perfect
with the tempura.
The fifth course features Kinki. The channel rockfish is
first poached in sake and dried overnight, before grilling to a beautiful
golden brown on the surface, while the flesh remains moist and soft. The
fish is already very tasty, and the sauce further adds wonders. Made from the fish
bone, together with Hamaguri and fresh Sansho, it is supremely flavourful.
Before proceeding to sushi, I have my second sake,
くどき上手Jr.
の愛山33
($250). Made from the Hyogo-grown Aizan rice with polishing ratio of 33%, the rice
is ideal for sake brewing and regarded by many as a good competitor with Yamada
Nishiki. The sake has a rich ripe fruit note, with a smooth mouthfeel, perfect
with sushi rice.
The first piece of sushi features Fukuoka Shiro-Ika. Very
beautifully cut, it is the first time I have seen someone cut the squid in such
manner, with a great soft tender texture. Sprinkled with a bit of charcoal salt
to season, the sweetness of the squid is impeccable.
Chef Zinc then takes out a new sushi plate with fish bones etched
and shared that he would replace all the plates with this design in future,
after getting them from a local craftsman. The second sushi comes from the
local waters, caught near Po Toi, the Longfin Grouper has been aged for two
weeks, with a rich fish taste and silky-smooth texture.
The third sushi features Yellowfin Seabream, also caught
near Po Toi. Chef Zinc shares that this one was the best he has used this year,
weighing almost 3 catties in size. The fish has been aged for three days, with
a phenomenal texture and delicate taste. Amazing.
The fourth sushi continues to feature local fish, Thread-Sail
Filefish. Unlike most of the Japanese Kawahagi, the local ones are wild,
without the process to farm it briefly to fatten its liver. Using a piece of
the liver and put in between the meat and sushi rice, this is another gorgeous
sushi on the night.
The fifth sushi features the local Star Snapper, caught near
Po Toi again. Chef Zinc has used the fish innards and bones to prepare the
shoyu to add to the taste of the fish, like the way the fish oil seeps into the
flesh from the traditional steaming process. Rich in taste and silky smooth on
texture, another great one.
Taking a break from the sushi, Chef Zinc has used some small
Star Snapper to prepare a rich and intense stock, as ingredients to make
Chawanmushi. The steamed egg custard is silky, with amazing flavours, on top
there is a fish oil extraction, made together with shallot, spring onion and
ginger. Very tasty, there is an interesting satay flavour as well.
Next is perhaps the course that impresses me the most in the
evening. The local Long-Neck Mantis Shrimp is lightly poached before deep-frying
in tempura style, with the amber-coloured fat seemingly oozing from the body. Again,
the batter is very thin, barely discernible. Super sweet in taste without
dipping the seaweed salt. A blessing able to enjoy them.
Then comes Grilled Ayu. Chef Zinc has taken the innards and
the bones out, ferment them to a paste, and then brushed it back onto the sweetfish
before grilling. The whole fish can be eaten, even the head, with a slight
bitter taste but completely edible. On the side are the pickled seasonal wild
vegetables. All the signature summer delicacies in one dish.
Coming to my third sake serving, this time it is
くどき上手 酒未來 純米吟釀. The
famous sake rice is first developed by the renown brewery Takagi, the producer
of Juyondai. This sake has a floral note with a nice, sweet taste but keeping a
refreshing palate, to match with the next part of the sushi.
Taking out a flag and putting on the wall, Chef Zinc
introduces the sixth sushi, the first Sanma of the year. While the Pacific
Saury is not that fatty yet, in terms of freshness, it is impeccable, with its
silvery sheen skin already gets my mouth watering. It is good fortune we get to
be the group to enjoy the first catch.
The seventh sushi features Tokishirazu, the special chum
salmon that is caught in the season, outside the typical spawning time. With a
good fat content and tender texture, Chef Zinc has lightly marinated with
shoyu, before smoking it briefly to impart aromatic flavours, with the taste
truly memorable and no wonder a prized seasonal offering. Not to be missed.
The eighth sushi is served inside a bowl, featuring some
nice Hokkaido Shiro-Uni. The white sea urchin has a soft and creamy texture,
fresh and flavourful, of nice sweetness with also hints of seawater on the
taste.
The ninth sushi features the special cut Jabara, the
fattiest part of the O-Toro, with the signature strips pattern like the belly
of a snake. Having aged for three weeks, the tendon has been softened, easy to
chew. The intense flavours are highly appealing, and for many it is regarded as
the best part of tuna.
The tenth sushi continues with tuna, but this time using the
lean portion to prepare the Akami, with a richer metallic taste that has been
balanced with shoyu, the umami is very nice. For me, the best Akami Zuke is
even more appealing than O-Toro. However, tonight both pieces are very good so
I cannot pick the one I like more.
Still feeling up to it, I have my fourth sake serving on the
night, going for
くどき上手 大吟醸 澱がらみ ($250). The sake has a nice
floral note, mellow and fruity, with a more full-body palate that is good to
wrap up the dinner with the last few courses.
Knowing that Chef Zinc has specially prepared Shinko ($200)
on the night, I immediately ask for one. The handling of the Baby Gizzard Shad
takes lots of effort, from removing the tiny bones of the small fish, to the marinade
in salt and vinegar, and its super high price, makes it very special to have
it served. Personally, I prefer it a bit more sour but still very good.
Then comes Tamagoyaki, and Chef Zinc has shaved an abundance
of Australian black truffle on top. Using three different types of mushrooms in
the mixture, the egg pancake has a fluffy texture, with also intense flavours of
the mushroom that is further reinforced by the black truffle. But even on its
own the egg pancake is already phenomenal.
To warm the stomach, Chef Zinc has used the collar of the same
type of mysterious fish, along with the bones and fins, to prepare a Soup. Very
delicious with amazing umami flavours, a bit of Kabosu juice is also added to freshen
up the palate.
The dessert is Tiramisu, made from Hojicha foam, with some
chocolate shavings on top. The toasty and nutty flavours are very nice, with
the sweetness tuned to the right level to match with what the local HK people
prefer. A satisfying conclusion of the meal.
Service is great as always, and we have good interactions
with Chef Zinc throughout, while we are frequent customers, it does not mean Chef
Zinc will forget the others. The bill on the night is $6,325. It is another
great evening, and I look forward to the next visit, and wish Chef Zinc do well in the competition!