2016年7月27日 星期三

Wineshark HK Restaurant Review - Alto 88

This Italian restaurant is located in Regal Hong Kong Hotel, Causeway Bay. I called them up today to confirm my booking and found that there is a function which basically occupied the whole restaurant but luckily the restaurant is able to put us in a private room with the table facing the window. With good privacy and comfort, even though we could not see the beautiful harbour view because we are on the other wide of the restaurant, the late afternoon sunset and good weather helped set up a good mood for the dinner.

We went for Chef Giuseppe Maria Brancati Tasting Menu, which has 6 courses and I also took the wine pairing. First course was a Sicilian Red Prawn and Seared Foie Gras. The portion is small but in fact appropriate so we would not be so full at the end, the dish is on a sweet melon gazpacho, providing the right level of sweetness to enhance the flavors of the prawn and matching well with the foie gras as well, just similar to how a Sauternes work in typical French cuisine. The wine paired was a Vermentino di Sardegna from Cantina Argiolas.

Next is a Broad Beans Cream, a soup prepared from broad beans puree with a Pecorino cheese and pear ice cream, as well as crunchy Parma ham. The cheese and pear ice cream provides an interesting contrast in temperature to the soup, plus nice flavors of goat cheese. The deep fried Parma ham further gave an extra crunchy dimension to the soup. The wine paired was a Arneis Langhe from Ceretto.

The third course is my favorite on the night, a Risotto 'Acquerello' which has squid and prepared using squid ink. The risotto has the perfect texture, with the creaminess, chewiness, flavors all very well balanced. There is also a bacon note on the risotto which I found appetizing and in fact offered good complement to the taste overall. There is also some Tabasco sauce or similar I suspect which gave a bit of spicy to the risotto. I could easily finish twice the portion in no time. The wine paired was a Soave Classico from Pieropan.

Fourth is Italian Red Mullet in anise and Porcini mushroom consomme, with caramelized garden vegetables. The fish is marinated well and full of flavors, and being soaked in the consomme there is some additional savory flavors. The vegetables are cooked to caramelized to bring in a degree of sweetness too. The wine paired was a Viognier from Michele Satta.

Maybe because of the function on the night, or as the staff told me there is no suitable substitute recommended by the chef, I stick to the menu with the fifth course being a Roasted Beef Rump with Three Kinds of Herbs. The beef is tender and lean, roasted nicely, and served with a prune sauce to provide good sweetness to bring out the taste of the meat. On the side is a Pumpkin and Ginger Quenelle, with also Horseradish Chips, again contrasting the soft and crunchy texture. The wine paired was a Nebbiolo d'Alba from Ceretto.

On dessert it was a Tuile Roll, with Tangerine Reduction and Hazelnut Cream on the inside, and a Grand Marnier and Cinnamon Bavarois accompanying. The roll is crispy and the cream also of the right sweetness level to be satisfying but not heavy. The wine paired was a Moscato d'Asti from Ceretto, and this was a wonderful choice as the acidity and slight fizziness of the wine complement nicely with the dessert.

Finishing with a coffee, I found this meal very satisfying, with good food, nice environment and decor, comfortable setting, attentive and friendly services. It is definitely a restaurant I would recommend to others and also come back again. The bill is $2100, with a 20% discount because of credit card promotion, a fairly reasonable price as a result.

My overall rating is 70/100.

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