Marc
Morey’s vines were divided between his son Michel, who married Fabienne
Coffinet and created Domaine Morey-Coffinet, and his daughter Marie-Joseph, who
continued to use the name of her father’s domaine.
The
wines today are made by Bernard Mollard, who married Marie-Joseph in 1974 and
began working on the estate. Michel left in 1980 to look after the Coffinet
vines and gradually Bernard took over.
Bernard
started a negociant business in late 1980s to compensate for the grapes that
were shared between Marc’s children, buying from other growers in Chassagne,
Puligny and Rully. That business now accounts for about a third of the
production.
Bernard
and Marie-Joseph’s daughter Sabine has now worked in the domaine since 2003.
The vineyards are ploughed with occasional weedkillers in difficult parcels,
with the best quality vines mostly planted 20-30 years ago.
The red
wine accounts for little more than 10% of the production, vinified with
relatively short curvasions and little pigeage, not to extract too much tannin.
The best red is Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot, a solid grippy wine with
good body but often lacking generosity.
The
whites are excellent and more famous, with the Chardonnay grapes hand-picked
and pressed as quickly as possible in a modern, pneumatic press. No debourbage
if the grapes are healthy, and fermentation is started in stainless steel vats
using only natural indigenous yeast.
Once
initial fermentation is over the wine is transferred to barrel to ferment the
remaining sugars, allowing Bernard to keep the temperature a little lower to
retain freshness and aromas. Afterwards the wine has batonnage for a week.
Larger
oak casks since 2007 are used, about 25-35% are new each year, with the wine
stays on the lees until July when they are racked, fined and filtered before
being bottled at the end of August. The aim is to make fresh, aromatic wines
attractive when young but with good grip and acidity.
The
premiers crus are a fine range, with the most impressive is the quality from
St-Aubin 1er Cru Charmois. Slightly richer includes Chassagne-Montrachet 1er
Cru Vergers, and Les Chenevottes has even fuller body, extra depth and length.
The two
finest Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Crus are Les Caillerets and En Virondot, with
the former a lovely elegant wine with freshness, power and length. The latter
is essentially a monopole as the domaine is buying the fruit from other owners
to complement its own 2 ha of vines.
The
soils here are poorer and less deep, producing crisper wine and less fat but
has intense flavor and great length. Bernard has just 0.2 ha of
Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Pucelles, splitting between his brother-in-law
Michel, and the wine is rick, silky, fresh and generous.
There is
also a plot in Batard-Montrachet and in 2008 it is only of two barrels for the
entire production, with rich and honeyed aromas, fine depth and length.
I have
recently tasted the 2006 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru En Virondot and below is
my tasting note:
Appearance
Bright
and clear, it has medium lemon color, with legs.
Nose
Clean,
with medium (+) intensity aromas dairy notes of cream and butter, green fruit
of pear, citrus notes of lemon, kernel notes of walnut, maturity notes of hay,
mineral notes of stony. The wine is developing.
Palate
Dry with
medium (+) acidity, the wine has medium alcohol, medium body, and has medium
intensity flavors of green fruit of pear and ripe apple, maturity notes of
mushroom, citrus notes of lemon, kernel notes of walnut, dairy notes of bread.
The wine has a medium finish.
Conclusion
Good
quality Chassagne-Montrachet with a good intense nose, having also good complexity,
the wine has a robust structure, with the acidity supporting well the body with
the flavors clearly highlighting the elegance of the wine, with good bread and
walnut notes of decent concentrated. The wine has a fair length on the finish,
ready to drink and can benefit from further ageing of another 3-5 years. 
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