2014年4月21日 星期一

Chateau Chasse-Spleen


Chateau Chasse-Spleen is the leading estate of Moulis, a small and easily overlooked commune on the left bank of the Gironde. During the 1855 classification the estate did not exist as an independent entity. Currently a Cru Bourgeois, with a brief fame of Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel but that ranking was annulled in 2003.
There were records on vines planted back to 1560, under the landlord by the name of Grenier, whose name over the years had evolved into Gressier. The family remained in control of the estate, known as Grand-Poujeaux, until the division in 1822 because of the inheritance law. Half the vineyards were under the name Chateau Gressier-Grand-Poujeaux which the wine is still being sold today.

The other half is the current Chateau Chasse-Spleen, under the Castaing family who also owned Chateau Maucaillou and Poujeaux-Theil. By 1860s Chateau Chasse-Spleen began to operate as an independent entity, and around the turn of the century the estate was already a well-established one. The property was later sold to the German firm Seigneitz, surviving World War I but suffering many damages.

In 1922 the property was auctioned to Frank Lahary, who passed to his daughter and her husband. Surviving through the difficult period, the estate was later sold to Jacques Merlaut. The Merlaut family also owned properties including Gruaud-Larose, Ferriere, La Gurgue, Citran and Haut-Bages-Liberal. In 1976 Jacques Merlaut handed control to Bernadette Villars and her husband.

Bernadette had contributed a lot to the improvement of quality of the wine, but unfortunately both she and her husband died in a mountaineering accident, leaving behind her daughter Claire to run the property.

The vineyards are heavily parcellated, with mostly Garonne gravel and some chalky clay mixture. Total area is 80 hectares, with vine averaging 30 years old. Cabernet Sauvignon dominates at 73%, with 20% Merlot and 7% Petit Verdot. The soils are ploughed, and manual harvesting is adopted, the wine is aged between 12-14 months in oak of 40% new.

The wine is fined with egg white before bottling, with the grand vin Chateau-Spleen production at about 28000 cases. Two second wines are made: L’Ermitage Chasse-Spleen and l’Oratoire de Chasse-Spleen of about 14000 cases.

I have recently tasted the 1995 vintage and below is my tasting note:
Appearance
Bright and clear, it has deep ruby color, with wide garnet rims and legs.

Nose
Clean, with medium intensity aromas showing black fruit of dark cherries and plum, floral notes of violet, sweet spice of cloves, oak notes of cedar, maturity notes of damp earth and forest floor. The wine is fully developed.

Palate
Dry with medium (+) acidity, this wine has medium (+) tannin which is integrated and velvety. Medium in alcohol and of medium (+) body, with medium intensity flavors of black fruit of plum and dark cherries, dried fruit of prune, sweet spice of cloves, oak notes of cedar, hints of tobacco. The wine has a medium finish.

Conclusion
Acceptable quality Moulis red with reasonable concentration and complexity, the wine is a bit over its peak, but the acidity is still holding strong on the palate to provide the structure. Not having any special feature to make this wine interesting, nevertheless it has a reasonable length. The fruit is fast receding and this wine should be consumed immediately and not intend for further ageing.

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