Chateau
d’Armailhac was founded by Dominique d’Armailhacq, purchasing the vineyards
from Nicolas-Alexandre de Segur, the Prince des Vignes, between 1718 and 1740. Dominique
further expanded the estate and acquired the buildings at Chateau Brane-Mouton,
renaming it to Mouton-d’Armailhacq. He also acquired the Carruades vineyard,
one of the better sites in Pauillac.
Dominique
later passed the property to his two brothers, one was Odet d’Armailhacq, but
they had to sell in 1843 due to financial difficulties. Interestingly, Odet’s
wife purchased the estate but decided to sell the Carraudes vineyard to
Lafite-Rothschild, and later passed the estate to her son Armand. Armand was
instrumental in improving the quality of the estate and across Bordeaux, by
strongly advocating the use of Cabernet Sauvignon, better vineyard and chai
management.
The
estate was awarded a fifth growth status in the 1855 classification but with
the advent of the 20th century, it had difficult times. After Armand’s
death the estate was run by his brother-in-law Comte Adrien de Ferrand. Adrien’s
descendent Roger then sold the estate, together with the newly created
negociant business, to Baron Philippe de Rothschild in 1933.
Baron
Philippe changed the name of the estate to Mouton-Baron-Philippe, and the
negociant business to Baron Philippe de Rothschild SA, which later developed into
the most widely recognized Bordeaux brands Mouton Cadet. The estate was
renovated, with the vineyards replanted, but the size actually was reduced from
75 to 32 hectares by 1960. The chai was fully renewed in 1968 also.
In 1976
the name was changed again to Mouton-Baronne-Philippe to honor his wife, but
only resulting in confusing consumers. So Philippe’s daughter Philippine later
decided to change the name back to d’Armailhac, to provide a more clear
association to the origins.
Today
the vineyards cover 50 hectares, with three main plots: 26 ha from the
extension of Carraudes, with gravel soils; 19 ha of sand and chalk over
limestone, and 5 ha of light gravel up to three metres deep. Vine density is
8500 vines per hectare, planted with 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, 18%
Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. Average vine age is 47 years, but there are
some sections with vines older than 100 years.
The
management is under the team of Mouton-Rothschild, with a higher than normal
fermentation temperature, blending following malolactic fermentation. The wines
are kept in oak barrels for 16 months, of which 30% is new and remaining coming
from old Mouton barrels. Typically about 22000 cases are produced per annum
without a second wine.
It is
the least well known of the Rothschild portfolio in Bordeaux, having less masculine
than Clerc-Milon. The price has gone up rapidly in recent years, making it much
less attractive in terms of its value to money.
I have recently tasted the 2004 vintage and below is my tasting note:
Good quality Pauillac with deep ruby color, it got a fairly concentrated nose, showing good complexity and developing aromas of blackcurrant and blackberry, chocolate, cedar, liquorice, pencil shavings, tobacco and cream. Medium in acidity, the tannin is ripe but a bit grippy, the wine is quite full-bodied with reasonably intense flavors of blackberry and black cherries, liquorice, toast, tobacco. Having a reasonable finish, this wine is rather of mediocre given its GCC status and strong management team from Mouton. Ready to drink now though can benefit from further ageing of another 5-7 years.
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