2013年4月3日 星期三

Chateau d'Armailhac


Chateau d’Armailhac was founded by Dominique d’Armailhacq, purchasing the vineyards from Nicolas-Alexandre de Segur, the Prince des Vignes, between 1718 and 1740. Dominique further expanded the estate and acquired the buildings at Chateau Brane-Mouton, renaming it to Mouton-d’Armailhacq. He also acquired the Carruades vineyard, one of the better sites in Pauillac.

Dominique later passed the property to his two brothers, one was Odet d’Armailhacq, but they had to sell in 1843 due to financial difficulties. Interestingly, Odet’s wife purchased the estate but decided to sell the Carraudes vineyard to Lafite-Rothschild, and later passed the estate to her son Armand. Armand was instrumental in improving the quality of the estate and across Bordeaux, by strongly advocating the use of Cabernet Sauvignon, better vineyard and chai management.

The estate was awarded a fifth growth status in the 1855 classification but with the advent of the 20th century, it had difficult times. After Armand’s death the estate was run by his brother-in-law Comte Adrien de Ferrand. Adrien’s descendent Roger then sold the estate, together with the newly created negociant business, to Baron Philippe de Rothschild in 1933.

Baron Philippe changed the name of the estate to Mouton-Baron-Philippe, and the negociant business to Baron Philippe de Rothschild SA, which later developed into the most widely recognized Bordeaux brands Mouton Cadet. The estate was renovated, with the vineyards replanted, but the size actually was reduced from 75 to 32 hectares by 1960. The chai was fully renewed in 1968 also.

In 1976 the name was changed again to Mouton-Baronne-Philippe to honor his wife, but only resulting in confusing consumers. So Philippe’s daughter Philippine later decided to change the name back to d’Armailhac, to provide a more clear association to the origins.

Today the vineyards cover 50 hectares, with three main plots: 26 ha from the extension of Carraudes, with gravel soils; 19 ha of sand and chalk over limestone, and 5 ha of light gravel up to three metres deep. Vine density is 8500 vines per hectare, planted with 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, 18% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. Average vine age is 47 years, but there are some sections with vines older than 100 years.

The management is under the team of Mouton-Rothschild, with a higher than normal fermentation temperature, blending following malolactic fermentation. The wines are kept in oak barrels for 16 months, of which 30% is new and remaining coming from old Mouton barrels. Typically about 22000 cases are produced per annum without a second wine.

It is the least well known of the Rothschild portfolio in Bordeaux, having less masculine than Clerc-Milon. The price has gone up rapidly in recent years, making it much less attractive in terms of its value to money.

I have recently tasted the 2004 vintage and below is my tasting note:

Good quality Pauillac with deep ruby color, it got a fairly concentrated nose, showing good complexity and developing aromas of blackcurrant and blackberry, chocolate, cedar, liquorice, pencil shavings, tobacco and cream. Medium in acidity, the tannin is ripe but a bit grippy, the wine is quite full-bodied with reasonably intense flavors of blackberry and black cherries, liquorice, toast, tobacco. Having a reasonable finish, this wine is rather of mediocre given its GCC status and strong management team from Mouton. Ready to drink now though can benefit from further ageing of another 5-7 years.

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