Spain

There are many new developments in Spain, with unprecedented investment in the field as well as bodegas. There are 61 DO plus 2 DOCa (Rioja and Priorat). Their wine is enjoying international popularity because mainly of the ripeness and low costs. Many producers are rediscovering the indigenous strengths and traditional practices, as well as native grape varieties.

Spain’s advantages for vine are a combination of altitude and latitude. Apart from the uncivilized mountains and parts of the north, the rest is perfectly suited to vines. 90% of vineyards lie at altitudes higher than major French wine region. With cold winters and very hot summers, the biggest challenge is summer drought. As a result the vines are planted widely apart, resulting in Spain having the largest area under vine in the world. The vines are trained in bushes only just above ground level. Since 2003 irrigation is allowed on case-by-case basis, helping to increase yields. In La Mancha the introduction of machine harvesting and wire-trained vines also help.

The DO system is much less complicated than AC in France or DOC in Italy. With different terrains, conditions and grape varieties, producers are anxious only to improve quality. It is also far more common for the buying of grapes or wines than the practice of estate bottling. However, there are three DO Pagos (single estate denominations): Dominio de Valdepusa, Finca Elez in Albacete, and Deheza del Carrizal near Madrid.

There is the habit of releasing wines only when it is ready to drink which is appealing to consumers, and most bodegas actually age the wines longer than the customary requirements. However, with the influence of the French, not only the barrels were increasingly coming from French instead of American oak, some producers are abandoning or devaluing their Gran Reservas.

The smallest of Spain’s wine production zones is Galicia in the northwest. The Atlantic, the hills, the winds and a good deal of rain are the main climate factors. Godello, Treixadura and Mencia are the indigenous grapes. Ribeiro has good blends of Albarino, Treixadura, Loureira and Godello. Rias Baixas is the obvious star. Ribeira Sacra has Galicia’s most interesting reds coming from Mencia grape, as well as Monterrei. Valdeorras can produce extremely fine Godello worth ageing. In Bierzo the Mencia produces Spain’s fruitiest, most aromatic and refreshing reds. Alvaro Palacios put Bierzo on the map by producing Spain’s answer to Burgundy.

Majority of Castilla y Leon’s vineyards lie in the high Duero valley. Apart from Toro and Ribera del Duero, Cigales is already making some serious reds, but the most famous white comes from Rueda where the local Verdejo can produce very refreshing wines as Sauvignon Blanc, with red Rueda mainly made from Cabernet and Tempranillo, under VdlT label.

The River Ebro flows from Cantabrian Cordillera to Mediterranean in Catalunya. Upper Ebro has Rioja and Navarra where Tempranillo and Garnacha flourishes, with Campo de Borja providing inexpensive juicy Garnacha. Carinena is more for Cabernet-Tempranillo blends, with Calatayud home to some successful co-operative exporters.

Traditionally regarded as only for potent bulk wine, many of the DO in central Mediterranean coast are now producing fruity and even stylish reds. Examples like Julia Roch in Jumilla and Enrique Mendoza in Alicante. Manchuela has interesting Syrah and Monastrell blend as evidenced by Finca Sandoval. Bobal is also a characteristic variety in the region.

La Mancha is in the central of Spain with the high plateau of endless flat vineyards. Valdepenas has strong but pale red made historically from Airen tinted with some red. The region saw a conversion from light- to dark-skinned varieties. Besides Cencibel and Garnacha, other international varieties like Cabernet, Merlot and Syrah. Even Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc can be found now.

Near Madrid there is the most innovative vineyard of Marques de Grinon’s first DO Pago Dominio de Valdepusa, with imported grapes, new ways of growing and watering. At the frontier with Portugal there is Ribera del Guadiana, a relatively recent DO producing robust ripe wines similar to Altentejo in Portugal.

Despite over 1,150km away, the Canary Islands have joined the appellation, with quite a few DO. The most exciting wines are the zesty, citrus-peel whites made from local grapes as Marmajuelo and Gual. Mallorca has shared the pride with their native Manto Negro and Callet varieties.