This Michelin 1-star restaurant offers
French cuisine and is located at the historic two-storey building at PMQ, which
used to be Police Married Quarters. Having visited almost five years ago, today
we returned to see what Chef Loic Portalier has prepared for us.
On the ground floor of the building is a
bar and outdoor terrace for more casual drinks and dining, while ascending the
stairs leads to the main dining room. Seated at a table on the window side
looking out to the balcony, the décor is elegant, with warm lighting, a
luxurious yet relaxing and comfortable setting. From my spot I also got the
pleasure of seeing some of the actions in the kitchen at the back.
We have chosen the Prestige Menu ($1,888
each) and I also go for the wine pairing ($1,088). For aperitif, I started
with a glass of Eric Rodez Blanc de Blancs 37 edition ($228). This Grand Cru Champagne,
made from grapes from Ambonnay, is a blend of 3+ vintages, with a floral and
delicate nose, good acidity and highly refreshing.
The Amuse Bouche is a Beef Consomme. The
intensely flavourful broth has a creamy and rich Parmesan foam on top, scattered
with some garlic croutons and chives to add to the texture and taste. Reminding
me a bit of an espresso, it is delicious and the first time we have a broth for
amuse bouche.
The Homemade Sourdough has a crunchy crust
while the inside is airy and light. With a cream cheese butter on the side, the
bread are so good that we finished the two pieces straight away. The staff then
kindly provides another serving which we also annihilate.
The first wine paired is Taittinger Folies
de la Marquetterie. This Champagne is a blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir
growing on the hillsides around Chateau de la Marquetterie, where the Champagne
House started, with a deep yellow colour and nice fruity bouquet of peaches,
leading to toasted brioche and vanilla, and a full-bodied palate.
The first course features Langoustine. The
raw langoustine is chopped to small pieces and served in tartare fashion, mixed
with some smoked cream. On top is a thin slice of tuile, which supplements crispness to the bite. The sauce is made with clementine and fir buds, to give
the citrus vibrancy with a nice pine fragrance. Very pleasant and tasty.
The second wine paired is Domaine Courbet Savagnin
Sous Voile. This Jura wine aims to show the full potential of the varietal aged
under flor but not into the vin jaune style. Having a nice almond and citrus
peel note, together with honey and spices, plus the high acidity, it is the
perfect complement with the food coming next.
The second course is Caramelised Onion Tart.
A buttery “Brioche Feuilletee” sits on the thick, creamy sabayon prepared
together with vin jaune, infusing the sauce with the unique taste. With the
caramelized onions on top, and together with Comte cheese cream, it is
delicious and complex in taste.
The third wine paired is Domaine Lambert Le
Chenin d’a Cote, a Chenin Blanc from Chinon, with aromatic white flowers,
plenty of fruit like apple, citrus, and stone fruit on the nose. The palate has
good acidity, a sharp minerality, with chalky instead of the typical waxy
characters found in the varietal from other parts of the Loire.
The third course is Meuniere Frog Legs. Inside
the bowl the chef put the butter poached frog legs, fully remove any bones, and
cut into small pieces, together with cep and quenelles, which are essential
fish meatballs famous in Lyon, before pouring in a watercress velouté, with a
delicious peppery note. Together with some chives and croutons, it is
phenomenally good. A must order.
The fourth course features seasonal Morisseau
Mussels, which are cultivated along the Brittany coast. The mussels are poached
slightly and still retains the umami taste and tenderness, paired with a fennel
salad and the sauce with Amalfi lemon for its citrusy freshness. There are some
small Nduja pieces for additional savoury taste.
The fourth wine paired is Benoit Ente
Bourgogne. While the producer is less famous than his brother, this white wine
is very pleasant and nice, with green apple, lemon zest, and white blossom on
the nose, an elegant palate that has quite high acidity but not austere, plus nice minerality but not oaky.
The fifth course features Brittany Dover
Sole. Underneath the fish there is some cucumber puree together with grilled sweet
peas, providing a nice combination of textures. On the side are the prized Kristal caviar, paired with the beurre blanc sauce. With some dill to add to the
fragrance, the fish is very nicely seasoned and grilled, wonderful in taste.
The fifth wine paired is Tenute Silvio
Nardi Brunello di Montalcino. Changing from French white to an Italian red, this wine
has a rich nose, showing nice ripe cherries and raspberry, sweet spice, and
some toasty cedar with hints of vanilla, also having a smooth palate and velvety
tannin. A good match with game, and meats of leaner cut.
The sixth course features “Fabien D’eneour”
Brittany Pigeon. Served in two ways, in the centre is roasted pigeon breast with
some pine nut crumble on top to give a crunchy bite. On the side is the shredded
pigeon meat, stewed for long hours and covered with pastry. Together with confit
fennel and onions, and “Sauce Diable”, of black pepper condiments, it is another great dish.
The sixth wine paired is M. Chapoutier
Bila-Haut Rimage. With lots of dried fruit, this fortified sweet Banyuls has
plenty of coffee, toffee, and nuts. Made from 100% Grenache, it is powerful in nose
yet has still got a nice acidity to bring freshness on the palate, making it a
good complement with dessert made with chocolate.
The seventh and final course features “Tulakalum”
Dark Chocolate. The single origin chocolate comes from Belize and has nice
tangy notes, sitting on top of caramelised sourdough ice cream, with toasted
sourdough crisp. Together with some cocoa nibs praline and a drizzle of whisky
for fragrance, the chocolate wraps up this wonderful meal.
The Petits Fours is homemade Canele which
are not too sweet, with a crunchy surface, and a nice vanilla taste, pairing well with a cup of espresso to finish. The restaurant also provides a couple of
Madeleine for us to bring back home as snacks, both good in taste. It is a satisfying
and enjoyable meal throughout.
Service is great, with the staff friendly,
helpful and attentive. Chef Loic Portalier also comes to our table to introduce
the main course and interact with us. The bill on the night is $5,864. If you
want to enjoy nice French cuisine in a more relaxing ambience,
Louise is
a good place, and in cooler season can also consider dining on the balcony too.