2021年11月23日 星期二

Wineshark HK Restaurant Review - Octavium


This Italian restaurant is located on 8th floor of One Chinachem Central, right in the heart of the busy financial district on Hong Kong Island. Opened in 2017, it has been awarded Michelin one-star status, with resident chef Roland Schuller leading the team. 


Arriving sharp at 6:30pm and after the registration, the chef opened the secret door leading to the spacious dining area. We were seated on the window side, and immediately I came to like the décor, which showed minimalist elegance, offering a comfortable and contemporary environment.  


We decided to go for the 8-course Degustation Menu ($1,888 each) and wine pairing ($880). The staff then served us a starter with Black Olives and Anchovies. The olives were good, and the quality of the anchovies was amazing, with intense savoury note but not overly salty. 


The first Amuse Bouche was a Salmon Tartare with Chives. The minced salmon was seasoned beautifully, with the fish oil seeping great flavours. The chives added the fragrance and serving on a crunchy crust, this was a great beginning of a wonderful meal. 


The second Amuse Bouche was visually appealing. The Parmesan Potato Ball had been added with a slice of Anchovy, and topped with a small piece of Comte, beautifully presented on a plate of seashells and green crumbs. The rich cheesy taste perfect match with the savoury flavours from the anchovy, and created further eager anticipation for our first course. 



Coming to the first course, Tuna Belly with Mustard, Ikura and Beluga Caviar. The tuna belly was thinly sliced, and then mixed with tomato water to give a bit of sourness, freshening the palate. The mix of salmon roes and caviar not only provided a contrast in colour, also with different umami and texture, creating a highly complex dish of great appeal. The edible flowers on top further added to the visual delights. The wine paired was Diebolt-Vallois Prestige Blanc de Blancs Brut NV, a Champagne made from entirely Chardonnay grapes. 



The second course was Goose Foie Gras with Figs and Brioche. The foie gras was slow cooked and then cut into a slide, surrounded with a fig paste decorated with small white flowers. Rich in flavours, creamy in texture, but without the heavy and oily mouthfeel of the seared version. The chef also provided a brioche toast for us to eat with the foie gras, a thoughtful gesture. The wine paired was 2020 Alois Lageder Gewurztraminer from Alto Adige. 



The third course was Abalone with Black and White Truffle. The abalone was braised to perfection, tender with a nice bite, and the black truffle sauce was intense on flavours, a good complement with the umami taste of the abalone. With some white and black truffle shaved on top, it was a great combination of Japanese and Italian ingredients to the best effect. The wine paired was 2019 Planeta Chardonnay from Menfi Sicily. 



In the current white truffle season, there was no reason we did not order an additional dish of this great delicacy. The White Truffle Tagliolini ($1,180) was recommended by the staff, and he also helped to split the portion into two. Chef Roland himself came to bring three pieces of white truffles and shaved a generous amount for each of us. The aromas were already noticeable from a distance, and together with the impeccably good egg pasta, offered a great culinary treat. The simple light sauce was perfectly in harmony with the white truffle notes, and for this dish alone I would like to return the restaurant again. I also ordered a glass of 2017 of Anrar Riserva from Kellerei Cantina Andrian in Alto Adige ($180) to pair. 



Returning to the tasting menu, the fourth course was Spaghettini, with Uni and Crispy Garlic. The pasta was obviously different, with the fresh tomato and herbs giving a light and refreshing palate to the wonderful texture of the spaghettini. The highlight certainly was the sea urchin, very sweet and creamy, and in fact was even better than the one I had earlier in the week in a high-end sushi restaurant. The crispy garlic added a crunchy bite and additional flavours. The wine paired was 2016 Timorasso Derthona ‘Pitasso’ from Claudio Mariotto. 


The fifth course was Hokkaido Scallops with Pike Roe and Egg Yolk Sauce. The scallops had been prepared in a flowery cut, seasoned perfectly to highlight the natural sweetness, and on top there were the pike roes, with a nice light amber colour. Although not as expensive as caviar they were equally good in taste, and the chef added an anchovy on top to enhance even more the umami note. The whole dish was integrated by the delicious egg yolk sauce, creamy smooth and created a real wonder of sensory delight.



The sixth course was Aged Pigeon, with Zucchini and Garlic. The pigeon breast was cooked to medium rare perfectly, very tender and juicy, with the zucchini peel made to wrap on top like a skin, with a white garlic puree in the middle. The jus was full of flavours, and together was another great feast of delights. The wine paired was 2016 Querciabella Chianti Classico Riserva.



The seventh course was Koji Aged Miyazaki Beef with Fried Veal Tendon. The prized beef was aged with koji, resulting in a dry-aged process that made the meat tenderized in a very short period, intensifying the flavours. The beef was good in taste, and even more interesting was the way the chef had deep-fried some veal tendon, which look like chips, but with a chewier bite. A creative dish and the wine paired was 2013 Brezza Barolo Cannubi. 


Before the eighth course, the chef had prepared a pre-dessert. On the top was a black sesame cracker, sandwiched with sesame ice cream, and another white meringue on the bottom. The crunchy texture was good, and the ice cream was also nice, with the sesame flavours integrating throughout to make it very enjoyable. A good transition to the dessert.


Coming to the last course, the dessert was Hazelnut Tart, with Caramel Wasanbon Ice Cream, Milk and Rum. The presentation was again very good, with the Japanese fine-grained sugar added with caramel to make the tasty ice cream and put in the hazelnut tart. Feeling very satisfied and full, it was a wonderful finale to the amazing tasting menu. 


Finishing with a cup of espresso, the chef also prepared Petits Fours, with a Cigar with a crisp wafer and filling with sweet creamy hazelnut mousse, a Blood Orange Biscotti, and a Chestnut Zeppole. All of them were great in taste and perfect with the coffee. 

The meal was one of the best Italian dinner I had in town, and certainly justified its Michelin status. The services were equally impressive, with the staff attentive, friendly and spending time to explain each course and giving recommendations. The sommelier was also good, with each wine pairing a good match with the dish. The bill was $6,714 while it might seem a bit high, but considering we had an additional white truffle pasta, it was worth the spend. 


2021年11月20日 星期六

Wineshark Go Hiking - Lantau Trail Section 3 鳳凰徑(第三段) 伯公坳至昂坪


Difficulty : 4/5

Distance: 4.23 km

From: Pak Kung Au

To: Ngong Ping

Transportation:

  • Take NLB No. 3M departing from Tung Chung heading to Mui Wo, alight at Pak Kung Au
  • Return by walking for about 1.2 km to Ngong Ping Bus Terminus and take NLB No. 23 back to Tung Chung
Date: 19 Nov 2021



This is the most difficult section of Lantau Trail, with distance post starting from L018 to L026. Beginning at Pak Kung Au, you will start to ascend from the stone steps. 


Soon you will be able to see the Lantau Peak in the distance, but there are a number of peaks you have to climb first. The first kilometre is not particularly difficult.


Along the way you will be able to see Cheung Sha and Tong Fuk. The ascend is quite tiring, and there are no shades so sun protection is essential. 


After 2 km you will see a split rock, and near the top of the first peak. There are many silver grass and they are right in season to show its golden hues. 


The trail becomes rougher on-going, and the surrounding also becomes more misty. 


About 2.5 km you will reach South Heaven Gate. Through the gorge you can see Shui Hau Wan in the distance. The gorge is very steep and although there is a small path leading forward, it is best to exercise caution and do not go near. 


Now approaching Lantau Peak, the climb becomes more steep especially nearing the peak. 


Soon you will reach the 934m Lantau Peak, the highest peak one can climb in HK, as the peak of Tai Mo Shan is restricted for access. There is a temporary refuge for hikers to get some protection from wind and rain, or to wait here to catch the sunrise. 


Unfortunately the surrounding is all misty so there is no good view on the day. Beginning the descend, I personally find it more tiring because of the extra caution in coming down. 


Arriving at Tsam Chai Au, there is a branch. Going ahead will continue towards Kau Nga Ling, which is a very challenging route no recommended for most hikers. Following the sign to continue to Ngong Ping, through the famous 'Staircase to Sky'. 


The descend is in the woods and this section offers good shade, and soon you will see the big Buddha and Ngong Ping Village in the distance.


Nearing the destination the Wisdom Path comes into view, with the wooden poles carving the different chants. Personally the poles feel out of place to the surroundings, and certainly not creating a harmony and peacefulness I would expect. A pretty bad design in my opinion.


The destination is the Ngong Ping flatland, and you can also see the phoenix statue with the Lantau Peak on the background.

Wineshark HK Restaurant Review - Sushi Nakamoto 鮨中本


This sushi restaurant is located on Pottinger Street in Central, led by Chef Masaki Nakamoto. Coming alone tonight to try it out, I was surprised to see there were already four people sitting around the 12-seat sushi counter, even though it was not yet 6:30pm. 


The interior design might seem typical for a nice sushi restaurant, but with closer look you will see the details, like the projection of the light onto the wall behind the chefs, the slanted ceiling to resemble the roof of a house. 


Lucky to be served by Chef Nakamoto himself, after ordering the Omakase Course ($2680), I picked a bottle of sake, Shidaizumi Junmai Daiginjo from Shizuoka 志太泉 純米大吟醸 ($1500), with the label showing that this sake was made for the restaurant. Quality however was only so-so in my opinion. 


The first course was Tarako 鱈子, or Pollock Roes. The chef had prepared three small pieces, and poached in a broth to cook through, infusing the roes with flavours while removing the fishy taste. The texture was interesting with a powdery feel. 


The second course was Katsuo 鰹, or Skipjack Tuna. The chef cut from a large piece of fillet which had been smoked, then put on finely shredded myoga, and paired with a special sauce. The smoky note was quite light and not masking the taste of the fish, and the sauce giving a kick on flavours. 


The third course was Shirako 白子, or Cod Milt. Cooked just right, the cod milt had a creamy texture and together with the chopped ezonegi and the sauce was another good example of how the chef used seasonal ingredients to the fullest extent.


The fourth course was Tako 章魚, or Octopus. Taking out a long tentacle from the bowl, the chef cut out two pieces before adding a bit of special paste on. The octopus was so tender you would not imagine it possible, and the flavours from the broth was fully infused as well. A very good one. 


The chef then took out a large piece of Hotategai 帆立貝, or Scallop, and slicing a piece and sent to the kitchen to grill, before wrapping in a piece of nori and handed to me. After grilling the flavours of the scallop were more intense, but even with the thin slice the texture was a bit too rubbery. 


The sixth course was Hirame sashimi 平目, or Flounder. The signature delicate taste with the good bite on the texture was unmistakable. 


The seventh course was something I had anticipated, the seasonal Kobako-gani 香箱蟹, or Female Snow Crab. Only allowed to be caught during November and December, the unique taste of the roes together with the sweet meat was unforgettable. I like how the chef had used the roes to prepare a sauce which further enhanced the overall flavours. 


Then the chef took out a number of Botan Ebi ボタンエビ, or Spot Prawn. After removing the head and the shell, the chef cut the large prawn into several sections, extracting the greenish blue roes to put on the side. He also used the yolk in the head to add to the sauce to increase the flavours. The prawn was so sweet and flavourful, it was really fantastic.


The ninth course was Grilled Akamutsu 赤鯥, or Rosy Seabass. The prized fish was grilled to an appealing golden colour, while the meat was still moist and tender. The purplish radish was a special breed, and after adding a bit of citrus it turned pink in colour. Certainly both visually appealing and tasty. 


The last course before transitioning to sushi was Ankimo 鮟肝, or Monkfish Liver. One of my favourites in Japanese dining, the softness of texture, richness in flavours, but without the oiliness of foie gras made this a winner on all counts. This one was good, but I thought the flavours was a bit mild than I would expect. Not sure whether it was because it did not stewed sufficiently in the broth?


The first sushi was Kamasu 魳, or Barracuda. Some of the skin was left and then lightly seared. With the fish oil energized to give a mild but very enjoyable taste. A good one.


The second sushi was Suzuki 鱸, or Sea Bass. The firm texture has a good bite but in no way chewy, with wonderful umami flavours. Another good one.


The third sushi was Akami Zuke 赤身, or Lean Tuna. The chef had marinated the tuna in soy sauce for a while, to further bring forward the umami note. Quite a nice one.


Continuing on Tuna, next was Chutoro 中とろ, or Medium-Fatty Tuna. With a higher fat content the flavours were more intense, and personally I like this cut most as it gave a nice balance on the fat level. Soft and without tendon, another nice one.


The tuna trio ended with Otoro 大とろ , or Fatty Tuna. Even more fat than the last piece, I liked the cut because there was a wonderful proportion of meat and fat. Otoro was not always my favourite because it was just too fat in most servings, but this one did not put me off. A great one.


The sixth sushi was Kuruma Ebi 車海老, or Tiger Prawn. Taken immediately from the kitchen after poaching, the chef removed the shell while the prawn was apparently still very hot. The joy of putting the whole piece into the mouth was an experience one could not forget. The sweetness of the prawn and how everything was integrated in flavours was pure wonder. 


The seventh sushi was Ikura 筋子, or Salted Salmon Roes. The whole piece of salmon roes was still intact, and the chef cut out a small section to prepare the sushi. Marinated well, it was not overly salty and the bursting texture was good and interesting too. 


The eighth sushi was Uni, or Sea Urchin. The sea urchin was from Hokkaido, creamy in texture and without any weird taste, but not as sweet as I would hope. Decent in quality. 


Then it was one of my all-time favourite ingredients, Kohada 小鰭, or Gizzard Shad. The silvery fish was salted and marinated with vinegar in edo-style, resulting in intense umami taste, with the sourness from the vinegar completely harmonized. A good one.


The tenth piece was Aji 鯵, or Horse Mackerel. With a bit of negi or scallion on top to bring out the flavours even more, it was sweet and tasty. Another good one.


The eleventh sushi was Ika 烏賊, or Squid. The chef had meticulously cut the squid to sever the tendon, and looking closely one would see the cut but it was not breaking to the surface, a true testimony of the amazing skill of the chef. It was tender and sweet, without any rubbery texture. Another wonderful one.


Nearing the end, the twelfth piece was Akagai 赤貝, or Ark Shell. The clam was cut to resemble a butterfly with a delicate sweet taste with a great bouncy bite. A very good sushi.


The last piece was Anago 穴子, or Sea Eel. After simmered in a broth with sake and soy sauce, it was brushed with a homemade sauce. The high fat contents, soft texture and flavours were true wonders and the whole piece essentially melted in the mouth. Very good indeed.


The chef provided two pieces of Tamago 卵焼き, or Egg. Each chef had his own unique way to make this, and Chef Nakamoto had created nice umami, with soft and a bit fluffy texture, which I believed was the result of long whisking. A nice wrap up on the sushi.


Serving the Miso Soup to warm the stomach, the chef then asked whether I was full or not. Decided that I could have a couple more, I ordered an extra piece of Iwasi ($80) and Shiroebi ($100). 


The Iwashi, or Sardines, was close to the end of the season. The chef had made nice cuts on the silvery skin and put on some scallions on top, to help reduce the fishy note. The flavours were bold and to my liking. 


The Shiroebi 白海老 or Baby White Shrimp, was another of my all-time favourites because of the wonderful sweet taste. This one did not disappoint and provided a rewarding and satisfactory conclusion to the sushi set.


Dessert was Pear and Grapes, which were sweet and juicy. The services were good, but there were very little interactions from Chef Nakamoto, not sure it was because of language barrier or other reasons. The bill was $4,796 which was a bit on the high side, but the food was fairly good so overall still worth a try.