Returning after two and a half months, this time I came with my wife and two friends. Interestingly, I recognized one of the customers who was also there in my last visit. Very soon all ten customers have arrived and seated, and the Omakase Dinner ($2,500 each) begins.
I order a bottle of sake ($1,200) to start, and the first course is soon served: Kawagahi 本皮剥. The thread-sail filefish is a seasonal delicacy, with a subtle and delicate taste. The chef has used the liver to prepare a paste, and added also some vinegar jelly to season, with the edible flowers and chopped chives, it is a great starter.
The second course is Ishigakigai 石垣貝 sushi. The Bering Sea cockle comes from Iwate, with a crunchy texture, rich in umami flavours. It is so fresh that when the chef hits the cockle the tip flicks up because the cockle muscle contracts.
Then comes the rare Fukuoka Uni 地海胆. While it may not be as appealing compared with its bright yellow or orange cousin, having a darker brown colour instead, this sea urchin has a richer fruity taste that is very pleasant. One of the best sea urchins I have tasted.
The fourth course is Kinmedai 金目鯛 sushi. The chef has used charcoal to lightly sear the splendid alfonso to revitalize the fish oil, giving an intense umami note that swirl around the mouth for a long while even after swallowing.
Next is Shiroebi 白海老. The white shrimp has been marinated with kombu, and the chef has paired with a bit of home-made shrimp roe salt, made from the roes of sweet shrimps. After drying the shrimp roes the chef stir-fry them together with salt for this perfect condiment, highly complementary with the white shrimps.
The sixth course is Ginnan 新銀杏. The Kumamoto gingko nuts comes from young gingko trees, and after removing the shell, they have been blanched before grilling on charcoal, moister and better q texture than the regular ones. The chef also served them on a gingko leaf that has turned yellow, highlighting the season.
The seventh course is Murasaki Uni 紫海胆 sushi, coming from Aomori. With its signature bigger size, the firmer texture allows the chef to put on the shari without having to make a gunkan. The purple sea urchin is creamy, with a sweet undertone and a clean taste.
Next is Shirakawa sushi, which is the first time I have tried this fish. It is a type of Amadai 甘鯛, but having white skin instead of the usual red colour. Consider by the Japanese as the best among the tilefish, very rare, with nice fat and good umami. The chef has aged the fish with kombu for a week. Really lucky we can experience this wonderful one.
Coming to the ninth course, it is Mehikari 目光魚, a deep-sea fish with a nice fish oil, the chef has air-fried for a week, before grilling it. The soft texture of the green eyes, with the intensified flavours from the drying process, plus a bit of lime juice to season, is a wonder to savour. Another must try.
Then it is Buri 鰤 sushi, and the chef shared that this skipjack tuna did not undergo any ageing, despite him asking for three weeks with his supplier he still could not secure unfortunately. With good fatty content, apparent from the marble appearance, this sushi is nice but I would still prefer to have Katsuo instead.
Taking a large Tottori Zuwa-gani 松葉蟹 out, the chef then cut the legs and the body of the snow crab, then using the shell to grill the brown meat to prepare a paste. Removing the largest pieces from the legs, he put back on the Chawanmushi 茶碗蒸, adding some of the paste in, and further spraying a bit of Japanese brandy to enhance the flavours. Fantastic one.
Then it is Kohada 小鰭 sushi, beautifully braided by the chef, the gizzard shad has been marinated in vinegar in the traditional style, to give a nice sour note. While I can understand some customers might feel this is a bit too fishy, but to me this is one of the greatest pieces.
Following is the highlight on the night, Sanma 秋刀. The Pacific saury is very fat, and seeing the chef process the fish is a feast on itself. Dipping in the special soy sauce with the Japanese chives, the flavours are like a burst of fireworks in the mouth. I would simply want to ask the chef for a whole tail if not considering there are many more dishes to come. Fortunately, the chef kindly gives each of us an additional piece afterwards.
The fourteen course is Hotategai 帆立貝. The chef cut the large scallop in half, pairs with sesame oil and salt. It is the first time I experience this combination, and it has a surprisingly matching taste, with the sweetness of the scallop and the fragrance of the sesame oil in good harmony. No doubt it is also because the Kagoshima sesame oil is of very good quality.
Ordering another sake, this time Chef Imamura suggests Isojiman Junmai Daiginjo 42 Spring Breeze ($1,800), another great sake with a very smooth mouthfeel, good white peach and other fruit, highly fragrant with a nice sweetness.
The fifteenth course is Saba 鯖. The chef has smoked the mackerel, and the fish also has nice fat contents. Paired with wasabi and soy sauce, many people have underrated this fish, thinking it low-end, but at the right hands and of freshness it is another wonderful ingredient delivering a lot of great sensory delights.
Next is Ikura 筋子 with snow crab meat. The salmon roes have been marinated in soy sauce, with the right level of saltiness, but not masking the delicate crab meat flavours. Each one of the salmon roes are plump and on the bite bursts with nice savoury taste. The chef also added a bit of shari to go with the salmon roes to make it less salty.
Continuing on the Zuwa-gani, this time the chef has prepared the picked crab meat and yoke, paired with the yuzu vinegar jelly which provided a nice citrus sourness to complement. Completing the trio of courses featuring the snow crab on the night.
The chef then takes out a piece of Kuchiko 海鼠子 to thank us for treating him on sake. This is one of the three Japanese umami delicacies, made from the ovaries of sea cucumber, requiring several kilograms of sea cucumber to make a piece, making it a rare and expensive ingredient. Chef Imamura lightly toasted it over charcoal, and it has an intense umami note, and at the same time crumbling on the bite. We are so surprise and thankful for the generosity of the chef, and definitely must try if it is available.
Returning to the eighteenth course, it is Awabi 鮑. The black abalone is very large, but in no way rubbery, simmered perfectly to give a soft texture, easy to chew. The liver has been grounded to make a paste, together with butter, egg yolk and soy sauce, so good that we ask for some shari to finish the last drop.
Almost to the end now, the chef takes the large slab of tuna, beginning with Chu-toro 中とろ sushi. The tuna is caught at Oma in Aomori. Dry-aged for three weeks, the wild tuna has a rich intense taste, a luxurious enjoyment of the signature delicacy.
Then comes O-toro 大とろ sushi. Instead of one single piece, the chef has cut the fatty tuna into several strips to prepare the sushi. Each bite has a burst of fish oil, with also a very soft and basically melting in the mouth texture.
Coming now to the twenty first course, the Murasaki Uni is served on a piece of nori, with the purple sea urchin coming from Santa Barbara in California. The chef explained that this is a premium sea urchin that he will only use for two weeks in the year. It is in fact one of the best locations in the world for sea urchin, and we can testify with its great sweetness and clean taste.
The last piece of sushi is Anago 穴子. The conger eel has been grilled without brushing the sauce repeatedly, so the original taste can be showcased more prominently. The texture is very soft and dissolving in the mouth, with a nice umami taste.
The Freshwater Clams Soup has a wonderful umami taste, with the hot soup not only provides warmth to the stomach, is helpful to reduce the dizziness from consuming too much alcohol. The freshwater clams are tiny in size but contributes to make the soup so delicious.
Then it is the Tamago 玉子, with the egg omelette fluffy and full of umami taste, and the chef has toasted it on charcoal to give a bit of caramel flavours. A rewarding and complete finale to the fantastic meal of this evening.
The chef asks us whether we want something more, and he takes out a large Ika 烏賊, which is still alive in the morning, to prepare for us a few additional courses. The first is the body, and he pairs with a ginger soy sauce. The squid is very tender and sweet, with the chef’s great skill in cutting on the surface making it so easy to chew.
The next one is the soft bone of the squid. The chef mentions that it is only this type of squid, with its freshness, allows them to be eaten raw. The texture is very crunchy, and a totally different experience, very enjoyable and delicious.
The last one is the tentacles. Upon request from us the chef also lightly grills it over charcoal, with a nice smoky note, and the tentacles also good in taste, sprinkles with some shichimi and also pair with a bit of bamboo salt.
For dessert, we have the Kyoho Grape, one green and one purple one. The chef is also very thoughtful to remove the skin of the purple grape because it is more bitter and chewy. The grapes are very sweet and juicy, with the signature fragrance.
The last course is Matcha Pudding and Lemon Sorbet. The sorbet is very refreshing, palate cleansing, while the matcha pudding is creamy and have good green tea flavour. A very fulfilling and happy evening.
Service is impeccable, with Chef Imamura mingling with us throughout the night, explaining the ingredients, creating small talks and showing his charisma, charming every customer. The bill on the night is $14,300 and worth every single penny. Look forward to the next visit very soon.
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