Wineshark HK Restaurant Review - Sushi Kumogaku 寿し雲隠

This is our fourth visit in the last five months, and by now we can be recognized by Chef Kin and his team upon arriving. The trick of making reservation, apart from frequently checking on their booking site, is to put yourself on the waiting list so whenever there are cancellations, the restaurant can notify you to see whether you are interested to fill in the spot.

Seated in front of Chef Kin to enjoy the best interactions, I ask him to arrange the sake, and he recommends 月山 大吟醸 月の雫 ($395), the flagship sake from 吉田酒造 in Shimane. Delicate in taste and very good indeed to pair with the food.

The first course is Mozuku 水雲 with Kaki 牡蠣. The Oyster has been marinated with kombu for a while, with a clean taste, not too briny. The Salty Sea Moss comes from Hyogo and the chef has added a bit of mashed mountain yam and wasabi. An appetizing starter.

The second course is Kawahagi 本皮剥. The seasonal Thread-Sail Filefish has been mixed with a paste prepared from the liver of the fish, with an abundance of chopped menegi on top. Very rich in flavours and delicious.

The third course is a mix of two sashimi. One is Madai 真鯛 and the chef has paired with the traditional lighter irizake sauce as seasoning in order not to mask the delicate taste of Japanese Sea Bream, which has been aged for two days before marinated in kombu for another day to give a chewier texture. The other is Tsubugai 粒貝 from Hokkaido, with a bit of sea salt to highlight the natural sweetness of Whelk. Both are fantastic.

Seeing how we enjoy the Tsubugai, the chef then cut out the ‘head’ for us as a treat. It has an even more crunchy texture than the body and wonderful in mouthfeel. I hope the other customers will not envy us too much for this special privilege.

The fourth course is Tako 章魚. The large tentacles of Octopus have been beautifully braised, very soft and tender on the bite, with the flavours of the sauce fully seeped into the flesh. I also like the chef giving us a piece of the tip of the tentacle which has a slightly different texture.

Quickly finishing the first sake serving, the next pairing is Ohmine 3grain 生詰 ひやおろし 山田錦 ($220) from the popular 大嶺酒造 in Yamaguchi. This seasonal ‘Autumn Sake’ has stronger fruity characters of melon and sweetness, and I found matching very well with the sushi coming up.

The fifth course is Buri 鰤 Sushi. This piece is made from the belly of Mature Japanese Yellowtail, with a soft and flavourful taste. The feature of this fish also signifies the approach of the winter season.

The sixth course is Sayori 針魚 Sushi. The transparent flesh of Japanese Halfbeak is appealing, with a delicate taste and the touch of a bit of soy sauce helps to elevate the flavours to another level.

The seventh course is Katsuo 鰹. Chef Kin skewers the Skipjack Tuna to grill the skin briefly, and then add the hay to smoke the fish, to infuse the flesh with great aromas. Slicing two pieces and then sprinkle with some salt and a bit of chopped menegi, the rich umami flavours are memorable.

The eighth course is Chawanmushi 茶碗蒸, with the Steamed Egg Custard featuring Shako 蝦蛄, or Mantis Shrimp, with its sweet taste highly complementary with the nice umami note of the dashi used to mix into the egg custard.

Then comes one of my all-time favourites, Sanma 秋刀   Sushi. Removing the skin from the Pacific Saury and then cutting in the special way to serve, the rich and wonderful taste really create an urge to immediately ask for another encore.

Coming to the third sake serving, this time Chef Kin recommends 榮光富士 熟成藏隱し 純米大吟釀 無濾過生詰原酒 ($220). This is another ‘Autumn Sake’ with a richer fruit and nice rice characters which go very well with the heavier dishes coming up.

Before serving the tenth course, Chef Kin shows us the bowl of the Kobako-Gani 香箱蟹, with the body meat, leg meat, crab yolk and crab roes picked out meticulously, and then mixing them together to knead into sushi. Great in taste and my first time seeing the Female Snow Crab serving as sushi, with wonderful effect.

The eleventh course is Matsutake 松茸. Using rice crisps to coat the rare and expensive matsutake mushroom before deep-frying, the mushroom has its unique woody and earthy flavours, and the crumbs giving a crispy bite. A seasonal delicacy.

We have asked for more additional Pickles, as the Burdock Root and Nagaimo are very nicely marinated, with the marinade great in the balance of flavours. I have to restrain myself as I can continue to eat these non-stop throughout the night.

The twelfth course is Chu-Toro 中とろ Sushi. The Tuna comes from Oma, the famous fishing town in Aomori, and the chef has marinated the Medium Fatty Tuna briefly in soy sauce, enhancing the umami taste, and together with the fish oil seeping from the flesh is a fantastic piece of sushi.

The thirteenth course is O-Toro 大とろ Sushi. The Fatty Tuna Belly is very soft in texture, without any tendon, and full with the wonderfully rich tastes of fish oil, bursting with flavours on the bite. My wife, who generally does not like fatty sushi, also gives this piece a high mark.

The fourteen course is Shirako 白子. The chef has grilled the Cod Milt before serving with a bit of shari and season with some wasabi. Mixing them up, it is very delicious. It is a pity to see a number of the customers on the night are foregoing this one.

The fifteenth course is Akamutsu 赤鯥, served in a white miso mixed with mashed burdock. The Rosy Seabass has been grilled, browning the surface but keeping the flesh moist and tender. The excess fish oil has also been dripped off, leaving a cleaner texture. The white miso broth is also good and I finish every drop at the end.

The sixteenth course is Kuruma-Ebi 車海老. After poaching the Japanese Tiger Prawn, the chef removes the shell immediately, amazing to see how he can withstand the heat. The sweet taste of the prawn meat, with its nice bite, is another candidate for a repeat afterwards.

The seventeenth course is Shiro-Uni 白海栗. Chef Kin makes a gunkan maki to prepare the lighter-coloured White Sea Urchin, which has just arrived on the day. The clean taste with delicate sweetness is very delicious, well-liked by all the customers.

The eighteenth course is the signature of Chef Kin, the Puff stuffed with Ankimo 鮟肝. The puff has been warmed on the hibachi before stuffing with a puree made from Monkfish Liver. Its rich flavours are always irresistible and no matter how many times I have tried, it remains a top pick.

The nineteenth course is Anago 穴子. The Conger Eel has impeccable texture, truly melting in the mouth, with the special sauce brushed on the surface bringing forth a nice sweetness. 

Already very full, but we cannot help to order an additional Sanma ($120) each. At the same time, the chef’s assistant toasts the Tamago 玉子 on the hibachi to warm it. Cutting two pieces to serve, the Egg Omelette has a spongy texture with nice umami taste coming from the shrimp mixed with the egg.

The Red Miso Soup helps to warm our stomach after a great meal. And for dessert, it is Brown Sugar Pudding, with the silky pudding having a layer of brown sugar on top of appropriate sweetness, completing our wonderful meal on the night.

Service, as always, is impeccable. While Chef Kin is busy serving all the customers, he can continue to maintain nice interactions with all of us. The total bill is $6,075 and for us, every single visit is another wonderful memory, and that’s why this is our fourth visit in last five months.

Wineshark HK Restaurant Review - Sushi Mamoru すし衛

I have wanted to come to this famous sushi restaurant for a long while but could not find a way. Thanks to my friend Kevin, we are finally able to come tonight, albeit having to book eight months in advance. There are two seating for dinner, and we have chosen the later serving, starting at 8pm.

The restaurant is located in Wanchai Yat Sin Street, a rather remote location, far from the busy part of Causeway Bay or Wanchai. The staff are very polite and welcoming, and soon we are seated at the spacious, beautiful hinoki counter that accommodates eight customers. Chef Chiba is already busy at work with his assistant getting ready to serve.

Looking at the sake menu, I pick a bottle of sake, the rare 善知鳥 大吟醸 ($2,200). Coming from the top brewery 西田酒造店 in Aomori, this sake is made from the free-flow dripping process, without adding any pressure, so the production is very tiny. With a nice peach and melon aroma, well-balanced and smooth pure taste, it is a great sake to pair with the different food on the night.

We have the Omakase Takumi Menu ($3,280), with the first course being Hirame 平目. The Olive Flounder comes from Aomori, with an elastic yet firm texture, a mild and delicate flavour. Paired with the ponzu sauce, the acidity from the sauce helps to highlight the umami of the sashimi. Wonderful.

The second course is Sawara 鰆. The chef has smoked the skin of the Spanish Mackerel, coming from Mie, over hay fire, infusing the fish with a fantastic smoky aroma, and also vitalizing the fish oil to make it even more delicious. Pair with wasabi and soy sauce, it is frankly the best Sawara I have tried. The staff explained that nowadays the fish has been graded and only those reaching a certain amount of fat level can be classified as ‘toro grade’. Chef Chiba further shared that only two fish markets in Japan offer this grade and he proudly is sourcing from one of them.

The third course is Chawanmushi 茶碗蒸. The Steamed Egg Custard is just off the stove, steaming hot, with a nice umami taste from the dashi mixing with the egg. The seaweed has further added some green colour to make it more appealing on both sight and taste. The magic comes from the plum puree on top. Upon mixing with the egg the dash of plum brings a memorable fragrance which is harmonious.

The fourth course is Hokkigai 北寄貝. The chef has brushed it with a bit of dashi before grilling it. The sweetness from the Surf Clam, coming from Hokkaido, is intense, and the slightly crunchy texture on the bite is also very pleasant.

The fifth course is Tairagai 平貝. The chef has sliced the large Hokkaido Pen Shell, then grill it with nikiri sauce, before wrapping it on a piece of nori. A firmer texture than the normal scallops, I found it has more concentrated flavours, and the umami from the nori sheet enhances the enjoyment further.

The sixth course is Akami Zuke 本鮪の漬. The Lean Tuna comes from a 132kg Bluefin Tuna caught in Oma, Aomori. The chef explains that the size is quite small, but the quality is very good, with a nice fat level. Having marinated in soy sauce briefly, the lean tuna is very soft, silky smooth in texture, and the marinade just right to impart good umami but not excessively salty.

The seventh course is Botan-Ebi 牡丹蝦. This Chiba Spot Prawn, as explained by Chef Chiba, is the true Botan-Ebi, while many which looks similar in the market are in fact coming from Toyama Bay, and not of the same. The prawn has been lightly grilled to bring in more sweetness. Another fantastic piece.

The eighth course is Buri 鰤. The Japanese Yellowtail is caught in northern part of Hokkaido, with the fish returning in the autumn/winter season. It has nice intense flavours while not too fatty. Another great sushi on the night.

The ninth course is O-Toro 大とろ. Coming from the same Tuna, the fatty belly has been carefully cut to avoid the tendon and then grilled slightly to melt the fish oil, making it even more aromatic and tasty. A luxurious and tasty piece.

The tenth course is Ankimo 鮟肝. The Monkfish Liver is creamy and wonderful in taste, but the true highlight for me is the finely chopped Nara Zuke 奈良漬 on top. The pickles have been aged by the chef for five years, with still a crunchy texture and a great taste that reminds me a bit of the best Shaoxing wine. A must-try in my opinion.

The eleventh course is Kuromutsu 黒鯥. The Bluefish is a relative of another prized fish Akamutsu, but being less fatty, with the flesh tastier with a stronger flavour. I like the Bluefish more because of this specific reason. Also, most other restaurants normally torch the Akamutsu making it a bit too greasy and not elegant.

The twelfth course is Magaki 真牡蠣. The Oyster, coming from Miyagi, has been marinated with kombu, and seeing how the chef kneaded the sushi with the soft and fragile oyster is a testimony of his superb skills. The oyster has a rich briny taste but not in any way fishy. Another wonderful piece I would like to encore.

The thirteenth course is Kobako-Gani 香箱蟹. The female Snow Crab, coming from Hyogo, is in season now, and the chef has meticulously removed the meat from the body and legs, before mixing with the abundance of crab roes and yolk to stuff it back on the shell, with each customer having a generous portion. With some yuzu shavings, every spoon is a pure joy with its poppy texture, with the taste impeccable.

The fourteenth course is the rare and prized Kinki 喜之次. The line-caught Channel Rockfish comes from Hokkaido, with very high fat content, and sweet in taste. The chef has lightly seared over charcoal to energize the fish oil, with the bite coating the mouth in great fragrance of the fish oil. The very soft texture of the flesh is also superb. 

The fifteenth course is Bafun-Uni 馬糞雲丹. The Hokkaido Sea Urchin has a very sweet taste, and the chef has made a gunkan-maki to better hold the soft and creamy sea urchin on the shari. There is no any hint of weird note, and another of the great ingredient used on the night.

Apart from the ginger, the chef also prepares some other pickles for us, including Pickled Daikon 大根 and Yama-Imo 山芋. The winter radish has a crunchy texture, pickled nicely with a slight sweetness to highlight its flavours, and the chef has added some yuzu shavings to freshen up the palate. The mountain yam has a contrasting soft mushy texture, infused with a bit of the spiciness from the wasabi. The Tamago 玉子 is soft and flavourful too.

Coming to the sixteenth course, the chef serves us Anago 穴子. The Conger Eel comes from Nagasaki, with the chef grilling them without sauce (shirayaki) and then cutting in halves, serving in two ways. One is added with a bit of sea salt to season. This one is able to highlight better the original flavours of the eel, with the melting in the mouth texture extremely pleasant.

The other serving is the more traditional way of brushing with a bit of the special anago sauce. The sweet and savoury taste of the sauce is highly complementary with the taste of the conger eel. It is really difficult to say which one is better, but I probably will give my vote to this style of Anago which has the long history.

Wrapping up the sushi the chef prepares the Tuna Maki. The mashed tuna, together with a bit of cucumber, is then rolled to a small maki, cutting into small pieces to allow eating in one bite. The great seasoning of the velvety soft tuna, and the crunchy cucumber shreds, create a wonderful finale to the omakase dinner.

But when the staff checks with us whether we want to have additional pieces, we immediately confirm. The first one is Hamaguri 蛤 ($180). The large Hard Clam is poached perfectly, with the clam meat fully cooked but not over-done to be rubbery. With a bit of special sauce to add the sweetness and umami taste, it is very delicious.

The second additional piece is Tsubugai 粒貝 ($180). The large Whelk meat has been sliced, with the right thickness to ensure a good crunchy bite, with intense umami flavours. Eating the best ingredients at the right season, this is another example of how the chef live up with this motto.

The third additional piece is Shiro-Ebi 白海老 ($150). The small White Shrimps from Toyama are carefully kneaded to make the sushi, with a soft mouthfeel and sweet taste that is memorable and filling the last tiny space in our stomach on this feast of flavours.

The Miso Soup is prepared using fish bones, full of flavours. There is a bit of special bean paste added, with an interesting spicy note and when mixed the enhanced savoury taste is delicious, with the temperature of the soup also helps to warm the stomach to make us all feel comfortable and contented.

The dessert is Home-made Warabi Mochi. The q texture of the mochi is very nice, dusting with some soy bean powder. The black sugar is not too sweet and has a rich and authentic flavour which I prefer over the white refined sugar.

Service is very good, and even though Chef Chiba can only converse with us with some limited English, the staff helps to explain and translate, so we are not feeling left out, especially with the other customers able to speak Japanese. The bill on the night is $10,670 and frankly it is quite expensive, but it is worth coming to experience the quality of the ingredients and the skills of Chef Chiba.