Wineshark HK Restaurant Review - Sushi Tokami

Located in Ocean Centre TST, this sushi restaurant is the first overseas outlet of the same name from Ginza Tokyo. Since coming to HK in 2014, it has earned Michelin 1-star status for four years in a row. 

There is a sushi counter with ten seats around, and we have the fortune of sitting right in front of the chef, seeing all the actions close up. Chef Lam is nice and friendly, and offers good recommendations on the choice of sake to match with our food. 

We had the Omakase Set ($2200 each), and to start I had a serving of Harukasumi 春霞 純米大吟醸 of Kuribayashi 栗林酒造店 from Akita ($230). The first course is Tuna Neck Handroll. The tuna neck, or Kama-Toro, is one of the rarest cut of the fish, with very limited amount for each tuna. The chef had minced the meat and then prepared a handroll. The fatty meat is very tasty, truly melting in the mouth, with an intense taste. One of the best tuna cut I had experienced in my opinion! I am not sure whether this is a normal first course but certainly it successfully impressed and reminded us that this restaurant is renown for its tuna, as the owner also has a specialty shop dedicated for tuna in Tsukiji market.

The second course is Young Sweetfish (Ayu) Marinated with Spicy Sauce. Ever since visited Gifu a few years back and tried out a specialty course featuring this river fish, we became attached to them. This dish certainly delivers our expectation, with the fish of a nice size and allowing us to eat it whole without any worry for the bones. And the marinade has a perfect harmony of sour, together with the pickled radish and carrot, plus the sansho leaves to provide spiciness, giving a complex and delicious experience. 

The third course is Bonito Sashimi. As the fish can degrade quickly, it must be very fresh to be used for sashimi. And in prior experiences most will be served after torching the skin, but Chef Lam cut out a slice without skin, then added some leek to complement. The fragrance of the leek actually matches perfectly with the bonito, and it was an amazingly tasty sashimi in my opinion, removing my prejudice that bonito is not a premium fish to be featured in high-end sashimi. 

The fourth course is Octopus, Smoked Sakura Trout and Firefly Squid Sashimi. The octopus is very tender in texture, so soft that you might not believe it is a tentacle. The chef had massaged the octopus for a long time in order to do that. The sakura trout is a specialty for the spring season, and this has been smoked to give a nice fragrance but not overpowering, with a delicate softness that is fantastic. The best surprise is the firefly squid, with them grilled and given a bit of shichimi to provide more flavors. Intense in taste, one of the best firefly squids I have tasted.

The fifth course is Snow Crab, with the chef meticulously removing the meat from the claws and body of the crab, then mixed with a bit of the vinaigrette and shiso flowers, which highlights but not mask the delicate taste of the crab meat. A nice one.

The sixth course is Japanese Spanish Mackerel with Saikyo Miso. After marinated with the miso the chef then grilled it to liven up the fish oil which is fragrant and tasty. On the sides there are the lime, radish with some soy sauce added, as well as some pickles. I found eating the fish together with them is really a special feast, with the additional complexity making the whole experience even more enjoyable. Really tasty. 

Then we start the sushi part, with a total of 12 pieces. The first one is Flounder, or Hirame. Coming from Aomori, the fish has a great bite with a delicate and light flavor, which is ideal to start for the sushi course. Very good.

The second piece is Cuttlefish, or Ika. This one comes from Yamaguchi, with the chef cutting on the body to break up the tissue to make it easy to bite, without any hint of rubbery texture. I also like he added a bit of charcoal salt on top, instead of soy sauce, which gives a bit of salt to enhance the taste but not masking the original flavors of the cuttlefish. Another smart and thoughtful example of the chef's finesse.

The third piece is Young Seabream, or Kasugo, which is essentially young seabream of around one year old and six inches in length, a specialty for spring season. This fish comes from Ibaraki, and compared with the bigger sea bream the meat is leaner but nothing inferior on the taste, and I would say even more flavorful than the larger ones. Something to look out for in spring. 

The fourth piece is Lean Tuna, or Akami Zuke. The Japanese word zuke means marinated in soy sauce, and seeing the chef put the fish in the bowl for a while, then taking it out and wiping dry on kitchen paper, while looks simple, is a true test of skills too. If too long, it will be too salty. If too short, not enough flavors. This is a perfect example of the impeccable timing, and the tuna is very tender and without any fiber. Truly great sushi.

Continuing on the tuna trio, the fifth piece is Medium Fatty Tuna, or Chu-Toro. When the chef brought out the piece to cut the slices, all the customers were amazed at how great the fillet looks. And on the bite it certainly resonates as well, with the amount of fish oil at the right level to give the sought-after delights, while not having the melting palate which can be disliked by some (including my wife). Normally she will replace the Chu-Toro with something else, but I was able to persuade her to try this and she like it also. 

Coming the pinnacle, the sixth piece is Fatty Tuna, or O-Toro. Crazed by many, it is not always my favorite as I also found it sometimes too melty on texture, like a piece of fat. But living up to the reputation of this restaurant, the tuna is fat and intense in flavors, soft and without any fiber, but at the same time not to the extreme. Very delicious and one of the better O-Toro in HK in my opinion.

Then the chef took out a number of Tiger Prawn, or Kuruma Ebi. Coming from Kumamoto and always one of my favorites in sushi, the prawn is of a good size, with a phenomenal bouncy bite which shows it is super fresh, with a great sweet taste. If I want to have a piece to encore after finishing the whole range of sushi, I probably will pick this one on the night. 

Next is Splendid Alfonso, or Kinmedai. Living in deep waters, the fish has large eyes and a bright red skin. This one comes from Chiba, with a nice flavorful taste coming from the rich fish oil while also having a good bite. Very good indeed.

The ninth piece is Surf Clam, or Hokkigai. Coming from Hokkaido, the clam is very fresh and when the chef hit it the muscle retracts. On the bite there is a rich taste of the sea, sweet with umami, and the bouncy texture is certainly appealing to everyone. 

I have a feeling that if we do a poll asking which sushi HK people like the most, I bet the answer might be Sea Urchin. If so then this one certainly is top-notch. The orange hue of the sea urchin, each piece of the same size, and seeing the chef put in on double-layer, already win us over. The Hokkaido Bafun sea urchin is very sweet in taste, creamy and without any strange taste. Really fantastic. Another of my choice to encore.

Nearing the end, next we have Rosy Seabass, or Akamutsu. From Nagasaki, this fish is prized as one of the most premium one for sushi, usually line-caught. Very rich in flavors with a good level of fish oil, it is a bit similar to the Kinmedai but at an even more intense level. So among the two I would prefer this more. 

The last piece is Sea Eel, or Anago. Again coming from Nagasaki, the eel has a great taste, soft and melting on the texture, and can be eaten even for someone without teeth. The special sauce used to brush on top is also amazing, fully complementary and integrating the flavors together to push the experience to a whole new level. 

Then there is the Egg, which has been mixed with a tasty broth before steaming. Slightly sweet but not excessive, a good closing on the sushi set. 

The Miso Soup accompanying is a pleasant surprise. It is a clear broth prepared using the bones and other parts of the tuna, with intense flavors that can easily identify with the tuna even without telling. The small pieces of leek further added fragrance and helps to reduce the fish note a bit to make the overall taste harmonious and wonderful.

The dessert is a big, ripe Strawberry. Bright red and sweet, it is a perfect conclusion to a fantastic meal.

Service is good, and the chef is not over talkative but not silent, having some small talks which make us feel welcome and comfortable. And the price is in my opinion reasonable, with 3 servings of sake together the bill was $5,654. I don't know why they have dropped the star, but with or without, it is one of the sushi restaurants I would recommend for sure.

Wineshark HK Restaurant Review - Aaharn

This Michelin 1-star restaurant is located in Tai Kwun, offering fine Thai cuisine developed by famous chef David Thompson, the chef who won the first Michelin status in history for a Thai restaurant, at Nahm in London. 

Walking up the flight of stairs to the upper floor of the Armoury Building, we were seated at the indoor section, per our request. But there is also a balcony overseeing the parade ground below. The decor is contemporary with a chic fine-dining tone.

We decided to go for the Tasting Menu ($688 each), and I also opted for the wine pairing ($480). The amuse bouche is a slice of pineapple lightly grilled, with some minced chicken and rhubarb mix. The pineapple has an appetitizing sweet and sour taste, with the chicken and rhubarb giving additional complexity in flavours. A nice starter to welcome the diners. 

The first course is Lobster Salad with Fresh Coconut and Lemongrass on Betal Leave. With some lime juice and some basil added, the salad is highly refreshing, and the fragrance from the lemongrass and betal leave essentially filling the mouth. The lobster meat is tasty and delicate, with the coconut providing a mild sensory bridge linking all the different ingredients together. A very nice appetizer. 

The second course is Chiang Mai Chili Relish with Quail Egg, Caviar on Crispy Bean Curd Skin. The savory notes from the caviar are a great complement to the quail egg, which are put on top of some chili relish with good bite and slightly spicy. The crispy bean curd skin not only serve to hold the ingredients for eating, it also gives a nice contrast on texture. Another nice appetizer.

The third course is Smoked Chiang Mai Sausage. Again using a leave to wrap, there are thinly shredded ginger and some other Thai herbs provided, which together with the sausage is in my opinion a great example to demonstrate how genius is the Thai people in using herbs, with the spicy sausage again helping to build the appetite with the complex flavors.

Moving to the main dish. The fourth course is Wagyu Beef Salad with Mint, Shallots and Lemongrass. The spiciness certainly has dialed up, and the staff reminded us not to try the orange-colored chili as it is very hot. Even though it is spicy, the taste is so good that you will keep on eating while sweating at the same time. The cherry tomatoes are sweet and help to neutralize a bit on the spicy taste. The beef is nice too. A good dish for those who can take spicy food.

The fifth course is Hot and Sour Soup of Tiger Prawns with Lemongrass and Cherry Tomato. Not your usual tom yum, this clear soup has the same spicy and sour note but without the coconut milk, and instead offering a nice chicken broth. The tiger prawn has a bouncy bite, with the tomatoes sweet. There is another choice if you cannot take the spicy soup. But personally this one tastes much better. 

The sixth course is Quail Curry with Holy Basil, Ginger and Peanuts. The red curry sauce has a rich taste but not particularly spicy, and goes perfect with steamed rice. With plenty of peanuts, shredded ginger and holy basil further adding complexity to the palate, the quail is much more tender than the more commonly seen dish with duck. Very nice.

The seventh course is Stir Fried Seasonal Thai Greens with Garlic. The young asparagus is very tender, and I like the chef had used shrimp paste to cook the dish, giving a nice savory taste to the vegetable and the bean curd. Another dish that goes very well with steamed rice, easily making finish the serving in no time.

Coming to the dessert, the Chef's Selection include a piece of pickled mandarin, mango and sticky rice, custard cake, and crispy sesame biscuit. All of them tastes good, but the most memorable piece is the sesame biscuit. Very crispy on texture, it has a nice sesame taste which is a wonderful snack all by itself. If you can order this separately, it is a must-try.

Service is good, with the staff attentive and friendly. The choice of wine is also nice, with some interesting choices. It is not easy to pair wines with Thai cuisine because of the spicy and complexity of the herbs, but I found the sweet Riesling and the Chateauneuf-du-Pape also did not make the spicy dish unbearable. 

The bill was $2,185 which is reasonable in my opinion considering the overall experience. If weather permits, probably would be good to book your table on the balcony to enjoy a nice dinner with a good view of the activities in Tai Kwun, with the sparkling jewel of Central as the background.

Wineshark Cooking Class - Stir-fried Fake Shark's Fin 乾炒如翅

Ingredients (for 4):

• Fake shark's fin - 2 pieces
• Oil - 3 tbsp + 1 tsp
• Crab meat - 100 g
• Shiitake mushroom - 6
• Conpoy - 30 g
• Chinese yellow wine - 1 tsp
• Ginger - 1 slice
• Woodear - 45 g
• Bamboo shoot - 1
• Beansprouts - 1 cup
• Salt - dashes
• Carrot - 1/2
• Spring onion - 4 sprigs
• Garlic - 1 clove
• White pepper powder - 1/8 tsp
• Soy sauce - 2 tsp
• Salt - 1/4 tsp
• Sesame oil - 1 tsp

Procedures:

1. Soak the conpoy fully in hot water until softened, then add the slice of ginger and Chinese yellow wine. Steam for 40 minutes.

2. Remove the conpoy and break into shreds. Retain the sauce.

3. Soak the shiitake mushroom until softened, then remove and cut in halves and then cut into thin shreds.

4. Soak the woodear and then cut into thin strips.

5. Blanch the bamboo shoot in boiling water. 

6. Cut the bamboo shoot into strips. Cut the carrot into thin strips.

7. Cut the spring onion into strips. 

8. Soak the fake shark's fin for 30 minutes, then blanch in boiling water for 4 minutes. Remove and drip dry.

9. Use a dry wok to toast the bamboo shoot until dry.

10. Use a dry wok to toast the woodear until dry.

11. Heat the wok with a teaspoon of oil, then add in the beansprouts. Season with a bit of salt and then remove. 

12. Heat the wok to medium-high level, and pour in a tablespoon of oil. Then add the garlic in.

13. Add the fake shark's fin and cook thoroughly, then pour in the sauce from the conpoy. Cook until the sauce is fully absorbed.

14. Add the conpoy shreds, and use chopsticks to mix well. Pour a tablespoon of oil around.

15. Add woodear, carrot, shiitake mushroom and bamboo shoot, mix well. Pour a tablespoon of oil.

16. Season with white pepper powder, soy sauce, salt and sesame oil, then add beansprouts, spring onion. Mix well. Then add the crab meat and mix well. Then serve.