Domaine William Fevre

In Jun 2018 I had the privilege to visit Domaine William Fevre, joining the WSG study tour to Bourgogne with Andrew Jefford. Meeting Alain, the rep from the domaine, at Chablis village centre, our bus went to the vineyards on the ‘left bank’, referring to the left side of River Serein, where a lot of the Premiers Crus are located.

On a scenic spot on the hill we looked at the lush green of the vineyards, seeing the vibrancy of the vines while listening to the explanation of why Chablis is so unique in style. There is a signage showing the different crus and it is a good place to look at the Grands Crus across the river on the other side. 

The steep, rocky slopes that extend to the right and left bank of the Serein are the birthplace to a history which spans over one hundred and fifty million years. This is where the unique Kimmeridgian terroir, alternating marl and marly limestone, embues Chablis with minerality and great freshness. These are vinous characteristics, envied and often imitated around the world, but never matched. Over the centuries, despite the phylloxera tragedy in the late 19th century, Chablis has grown in reputation and built on its natural assets to become one of Burgundy’s great vineyards.

We then went to the other side of the river, where the grands crus are located, stopping first at Les Preuses where the domaine has a large parcel. A bit of history first. 1959, the year in which William Fevre declared his first crop, marked the birth of the domaine. Descended from a family which had lived in the Chablis region for over 250 years, it was only natural that he set up as a winemaker with 7 hectares of vineyards. 

Over the years the domaine has acquired new vineyards in Chablis, all located in the historic terroirs. William Fevre has become one of the biggest land owners in Chablis with 78 hectares of prestigious vineyards, of which 15.9 are classified as Premiers Crus and 15.2 as Grand Crus.

Domaine William Fevre works passionately to express Chablis’ terroirs, respecting the region’s environment and traditional practices. The team works throughout the year with exacting levels of care and precision to achieve excellence and reveal the true characteristics of each climat. 

As well as maintaining the deep-rooted values upon which the family has always insisted, the domaine has managed to instill its vineyards and its wines with great vitality, thanks to modern technology and a resolute avant-garde vision.

Style is an empty shell. Wine’s potential lies in its sensual response. For Chablis, this is derived from its terroir, which creates freshness and minerality. Made up of 78 hectares and 90 separate parcels, Domaine William Fevre’s vineyards enjoy both a great complexity and incredible richness. 

For me it is the first time to see the different measures to reduce the damages from frost, namely the use of electric wires to heat up the vines, spraying with water, and the smudge pots. It is amazing how all the efforts made in the year in the vineyard can be ruined by the weather in one go, and this really gives me another dimension to appreciate when I am drinking the wine.

To preserve their environment, the vineyards are carefully managed. Limiting yields is a given, and the vines have been cultivated using organic methods for many years. The domaine carries out harvesting by hand in small crates followed by rigorous sorting, and pays close attention to detail at every stage of the process. 

Each terroir is incomparable, but however wonderful it is, a terroir cannot fully express itself without the skill of man. At Domaine William Fevre, everything that can be done is done, whatever the appellation, to achieve the quintessential character of Chablis.

We then went to the cellar to look at the vinification process. The cellar master becomes an orchestra conductor guiding the wines according to the domaine’s demands for quality and elegance. The vines are vinified without destemming, using gentle pressing to extract, and the stems also allowing a better flow of the juice. No cold maceration is carried out, with the must settling for 24 hours to maintain its freshness. 

While the Petit Chablis is vinified using stainless steel, other appellations (Chablis, Chablis Premier Cru and Chablis Grand Cru) are vinified using oak barrels as well, with an average age of 6 years rather than new oak, in order to preserve freshness and minerality and enable the subtle nuances of Chablis’ terroirs to fully express themselves. It is also a way to balance the reduction of the wine and encourage malolactic fermentation. No batonnage is practiced. The wines would be blended from the barrel and the stainless steel tanks before transferring to another facility for bottling. They have now adopted all Diam corks to avoid any TCA issue.

This careful process allows them to produce rich wines of great aromatic purity, which keep their unique character and express the particular characteristics of each vintage. Chablis is already widely known for its unique personality and special minerality… and among these “grands vins”, those of Domaine William Fevre are iconic. 

Over half of its vineyards are Premiers and Grands Crus: a white gold hue and vibrant bouquet: fresh fruit, white flowers, citrus, wonderful minerality and incredible purity. On the palate, there’s an abundance of flavours, perfect balance and a unique expression of freshness and elegance.

After the in-depth introductions, we began our tastings with covered a total of 7 wines: Petit Chablis 2016, Chablis 2016, Premier Cru Beauroy 2015, Premier Cru Vaillons 2015, Premier Cru Vaulorent 2015, Grand Cru Bougros 2015 and Grand Cru Bougros Cote Bougerots 2015. Since the occasion did not allow me to do a very in-depth tasting note, I would skip those but rather focus here to share my tasting for the ones I have in my own cellar. 

CHABLIS PREMIER CRU MONTÉE DE TONNERRE 2012

With a geological structure similar to the Grands Crus and excellent exposure, this terroir is considered one of the best Premiers Crus. The wine is both full and rich yet can also show its mineral and floral characteristics.

Appearance

Bright and clear, it has light lemon color, with fading rims and legs.

Nose

Clean, with medium intensity aromas of citrus fruit of lemon, green fruit of green apple, mineral notes of flint, brine and stony, floral notes of acacia, kernel notes of toasted almond. The wine is developing.

Palate

Dry with high acidity, the wine has medium alcohol, light body and medium (+) intensity flavors of citrus fruit of lemon, green fruit of apple, stone fruit of peach, mineral notes of stony, kernel notes of toasted almond, maturity notes of honey. The wine has a medium (+) finish.

Conclusion

Good quality Chablis Premier Cru with a reasonably intense nose showing good complexity, the wine has a great finesse, well-structured, crisp and fresh, with good concentration and a fairly long finish on the palate. It is ready to drink now though can benefit from further ageing of another 3-5 years.

CHABLIS GRAND CRU VALMUR 2010

With its terroir split into two parts on either side of the Sainte Vaubourg fountain path, it has slightly deeper clay-limestone soils than the other Grands Crus. Its shape is reminiscent of a small valley hence the name “Valmur”.

Appearance

Bright and clear, the wine is of pale lemon color, with watery rims and legs.

Nose

Clean, with medium intensity aromas of citrus fruit of lemon and grapefruit, green fruit of green apple, mineral notes of stony and brine, kernel notes of almond, dairy notes of cream, stone fruit of peach, floral notes of acacia. The wine is developing.

Palate

Dry with medium (+) acidity, the wine has medium alcohol, light body and medium (+) intensity flavors of citrus fruit of lemon, mineral notes of stony, floral notes of acacia, kernel notes of almond, dairy notes of cream. The wine has a medium (+) finish.

Conclusion

Very good quality Chablis Grand Cru with a reasonably intense nose of good complexity, the wine has shown typical varietal characters, reinforcing with the clear malolactic fermentation notes adopted by the domaine, with an elegant body on the palate, exhibiting good concentration of palate with similar flavors. It is highly refreshing and appealing, ready to drink now, though can maintain for another 2-3 years.

CHABLIS GRAND CRU BOUGROS "CÔTE BOUGUEROTS" 2013

Bougros sits on a very steep slope, with a gradient of more than 30%, facing due south at the foot of the hill. The shallow soil, a mixture of clay and gravel, prevents excessive yields resulting in complex, robust wines.

Appearance

Bright and clear, the wine is of deep ruby color, with narrow garnet rims and legs.

Nose

Clean, with medium (+) intensity aromas of citrus fruit of lime and lemon, green fruit of green apple, mineral notes of saline and stony, maturity notes of truffle, floral notes of blossom, stone fruit of peach. The wine is developing.

Palate

Dry with medium (+) acidity, the wine has medium alcohol, medium body and medium (+) intensity flavors of citrus fruit of lemon, green fruit of apple, kernel notes of stony, malolactic notes of cream, floral notes of blossom. The wine has a medium (+) finish.

Conclusion

Very good quality Chablis Grand Cru with an intense nose showing high complexity, not only the expected minerality and citrus but also an interesting truffle notes with some stone fruit as well, the wine has good acidity, highly refreshing and lively, with a rich and balanced texture, exhibiting good concentration and a fairly long finish. It is ready to drink now though can further develop for another 2-3 years.

CHABLIS GRAND CRU LES PREUSES 2014

Les Preuses is probably taken from the word “Perreuse” (stone), the name given to the ancient Roman road which ran below the current vineyard. Made for ageing thanks to a dense, compact, clay-rich soil resting on a limestone bed.

Appearance

Bright and clear, the wine is of light lemon color, with watery rims and legs.

Nose

Clean, with medium intensity aromas of citrus fruit of lemon and lime, floral notes of blossom, mineral notes of stony and saline, green fruit of tart apple, stone fruit of white peach, kernel notes of toasted almond. The wine is youthful. 

Palate

Dry with high acidity, the wine has medium alcohol, medium (-) body and medium (+) intensity flavors of citrus fruit of lemon and lime, floral notes of blossom, stone fruit of peach, mineral notes of stony, kernel of roasted almond. The wine has a medium (+) finish.

Conclusion

Very good quality Chablis with a reasonably intense nose showing nice complexity, with an interesting mineral and saline aroma on top of the citrus and other varietal characters, the wine has good acidity, highly refreshing and vibrant, with good concentration and a great finish. It is ready to drink now though can benefit from further ageing of another 4-6 years.

CHABLIS GRAND CRU LES PREUSES 2012

Appearance

Bright and clear, the wine is of light lemon colour, with watery rims and legs.

Nose

Clean, with medium intensity aromas of citrus fruit of lemon and lime, mineral notes of stony and saline, green fruit of green pear, floral notes of lime blossom, oak notes of toast. The wine is youthful.

Palate

Dry with high acidity, the wine has medium alcohol, medium (-) body and medium (+) intensity flavors of citrus fruit of lemon and lime, green fruit of unripe pear, mineral notes of stony, dairy notes of cream. The wine has a medium (+) finish.

Conclusion

Very good quality Chablis with a reasonable intensity on the nose, showing the varietal aromas and nice complexity. The wine has good acidity, highly refreshing and exhibiting flavors of good concentration of high mineral contents, as well as a fairly long finish. It is ready to drink now though can benefit from further ageing of another 3-5 years.

CHABLIS GRAND CRU GRENOUILLES 2000

Domaine William Fevre no longer owns any parcel in the grand cru, with the last vintage coming from 2001. From 2002 to 2010 the domaine has been buying grapes from other growers to make the wine.

Appearance

Bright and clear, the wine is of light-medium lemon colour, with watery rims and legs.

Nose

Clean, with medium (+) intensity aromas of citrus fruit of lemon, green fruit of ripe apple and pear, floral notes of blossom, kernel notes of toasted almond, oxidation notes of sugar cane, mineral notes of saline and stony, maturity notes of vegetal. The wine is fully developed.

Palate

Dry with medium (+) acidity, the wine has medium alcohol, full body and medium (+) intensity flavors of citrus fruit of lemon, green fruit of apple, floral notes of blossom, mineral notes of stony, kernel notes of toasted almond, dairy notes of cream, maturity notes of vegetal. The wine has a medium (+) finish.

Conclusion

Very good quality Chablis with an intense nose showing good complexity, with plenty of development characters but still demonstrating good abundance of fruit and mineral, the wine is elegant, finely-structured with good acidity, still refreshing but also having the dimensions of evolution, with good concentration and a good length on the finish. It is ready to drink now and not intend for further ageing.

CHABLIS GRAND CRU LES CLOS 2007

This is the largest and most famous Grand Cru; its fame based on its history as one of Chablis’ first vineyards. The appellation enjoys a southerly aspect with very white, dense and deep clay soil, resting on a limestone bed 80 cm below the ground, which brings to the wine those spicy notes so typical of this terroir.

Appearance

Bright and clear, the wine is of medium-deep lemon colour, with fading rims and legs.

Nose

Clean, with pronounced intensity aromas of citrus fruit of lemon, green fruit of ripe pear, maturity notes of honey, floral notes of acacia, stone fruit of apricot, dairy notes of butter, mineral notes of saline. The wine is fully developed.

Palate

Dry with high acidity, the wine has medium alcohol, medium (+) body and pronounced intensity flavors of citrus fruit of lemon, green fruit of ripe pear, mineral notes of saline, maturity notes of honey, dairy notes of butter. The wine has a long finish.

Conclusion

Very good quality Chablis with a great nose of high complexity and concentration, the wine has good development in the nose, but at the same time retaining a nice refreshing note of ripe fruit. On the palate it has good acidity, with good structure and balanced, showing plenty of development too in flavors, with great intensity and a long finish. It is ready to drink now and can maintain for another 3-4 years.