Chateau d'Issan

Many references of Chateau d’Issan suggest an origin in the 12^th century, with the construction of a chateau in the 15^th century. Some also opined that it was the English’s army final stand following the defeat at the Battle of Castillon. The chateau was known as Chateau Teobon, one of the castles that lined the Gironde.

The earliest owners were the Noalhan family, who bequeathed the estate to Thomas de Meyrac, remaining with this family until the early 16^th century to Jean de Meyrac, and then to Isabeau de Meyrac. Isabeau married Giron de Segur, and the property was absorbed into the massive Segur estate, including Chateau Lafite-Rothschild, Chateau Latour and for a while also Chateau Mouton-Rothschild.

Subsequently it passed to their granddaughter who married Helies de Salignac in 1527, and from there passed to the Ferriere and then Lalanne families. In mid-17^th century it came to Pierre l’Essenhault, as a dowry of Marguerite de Lalanne, who demolished the old castle and replaced it with the moated lodge that still stands today. Issan is derived from Essenhault, so he also gave his name to the property.

Pierre, Marquerite and subsequently their descendents resided until 1760, when the estate was acquired by a local named Castelnau, which divided between him and the Candale family in 1776. The latter took the chateau, renaming it Chateau de Candale. The estate was already well established in terms of quality, and was one of the first classed growths to develop international reputation.

Thomas Jefferson also made reference of it in 1787. The two families continue to hold the tenure throughout the 18^th century, until acquired by Justin Duluc in 1825. Duluc revitalized the vineyard, before selling it in 1850 to Blanchy, and it was under him that the estate got the third growth status in the 1855 classification.

His descendents sold the estate to Gustave Roy, who also owned Chateau Brane-Cantenac. Despite this absentee landlord, the vineyards continue to enjoy good reputation, due to the considerable investment including new cellars and vat room, focus on Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, and extensive replanting of Riparia rootstock.

In 1914 the estate changed hands to a gentleman named Grange, who also owned Chateau Giscours, but unfortunately the quality deteriorated. During World War II the chateau was occupied by German troops, and after the war the estate was in a sorry state, as well as the vineyards. Emmanuel Henri Georges Cruse came to the rescue, purchasing the property in 1945, at which only 2 hectares were still with vines then, and a lot of replanting and investment needed to rebuild the cellar.

The grandson of Emmanuel, also called Emmanuel Cruse, took up the general manager role in 1998. Under his direction and together with Eric Pellon as technical director, the restoration of d’Issan continued into the 21^st centuries. The new vines planted were Cabernet Sauvignon, on a vineyard already augmented by new drainage system.

In the cellars a new grape reception facility was established and a pneumatic press was also added. There are 37 stainless steel vats of varying sizes to allow plot-by-plot vinification. A new barrel cellar was added in 2000, with humidity control installed in 2006. In 2013 Jacky Lorenzetti arrived into the scene, who established the Foncia real estate in 1972, and after cashing in on his fortune, decided to go after his passion: wine.

Jacky made several purchases in the Bordeaux region, including Chateau Lilian-Ladouys in 2008 and Chateau Pedesclaux in 2009. In 2013 he bought 50% of the stake of Chateau d’Issan, with Emmanuel Cruse still owning the remaining 50% and continue running the estate and also assisting Jacky in running the other estates in Pauillac and St-Estephe.

The estate is located close to the D2, with the road on the west and south is the Cantenac village, while to the north is the pasture that runs down to the Gironde. Near neighbors including Rauzan-Segla and Rauzan-Gassies, while on the opposite side of the road are Palmer and Margaux. The vineyards have expanded considerably since the acquisition by the Cruse family, to the current size of 53 hectares, but the whole estate covers approximately 120 hectares which most are the pasture.

The vines are 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, planting at a density of 8500 vines per hectare. Production of the second wine is now much increased, with the 10 hectares of the estate’s vineyards in Haut-Medoc re-classified as Margaux in 2007. The grand vin is made from vines growing adjacent to the chateau, with typical gravel terroir and some patches of limestone.

There is also two distant parcels contributing to the grand vin, one near Prieure-Lichine, and the another lies near Arsac which was reclassified as Margaux. The fruit is manually harvested and sees a double hand-sorting before delivery to the reception area where a third sorting is done on vibrating table. Once complete it is transferred to the vats for fermentation under temperature control and guidance of consulting oenologist Jacques Boissenot.

With plot-by-plot vinification, the wine is typically macerated for 21 days, with malolactic fermentation encouraged afterwards, before the wine going into oak. The grand vin sees 50% new oak, with annual production about 5000-6000 cases. Age of vine for second wine Blason d’Issan is averaging 18 years, going into 35% new oak, about 5000 cases production. The estate also produced a Haut-Medoc wine called Chateau de Candale, and the plot renamed to Margaux is named Moulin d’Issan.

I have recently tasted the 2004 vintage and below is my tasting note:

Appearance

Bright and clear, it has deep ruby color, with fading rims and legs.

Nose

Clean, with medium (+) intensity aromas of black fruit such as blackberry and cassis, maturity notes of tobacco and forest floor, mineral notes of earth, oak notes of cedar, animal notes of meaty and farmyard. The wine is developing.

Palate

Dry with medium acidity, the wine has medium tannin of ripe and well-integrated texture, exhibiting medium alcohol and medium body. It has medium (+) intensity flavors of black fruit such as blackberry and cassis, maturity notes of tobacco, oak notes of cedar, kernel notes of chocolate. The wine has a medium (+) finish.

Conclusion

Very good quality Margaux demonstrating the beauty of developed Bordeaux, the wine has good intensity on the nose showing a nice balance of complex aromas. On the palate the wine is balanced, with elegance and typical Margaux finesse, having a smooth and enjoying tannin, supported by concentrated flavors and a fairly long finish. A good value wine in my opinion, it is ready to drink now and should drink now but can maintain for another 2-3 years.