Many references of Chateau d’Issan suggest
an origin in the 12th century, with the construction of a chateau in
the 15th century. Some also opined that it was the English’s army
final stand following the defeat at the Battle of Castillon. The
chateau was known as Chateau Teobon, one of the castles that lined the Gironde.
The earliest owners were the Noalhan
family, who bequeathed the estate to Thomas de Meyrac, remaining with this
family until the early 16th century to Jean de Meyrac, and then to
Isabeau de Meyrac. Isabeau married Giron de Segur, and the property was absorbed into
the massive Segur estate, including Chateau Lafite-Rothschild, Chateau Latour
and for a while also Chateau Mouton-Rothschild.
Subsequently it passed to their granddaughter
who married Helies de Salignac in 1527, and from there passed to the Ferriere
and then Lalanne families. In mid-17th century it came to
Pierre l’Essenhault, as a dowry of Marguerite de Lalanne, who demolished the
old castle and replaced it with the moated lodge that still stands today. Issan
is derived from Essenhault, so he also gave his name to the property.
Pierre, Marquerite and subsequently their
descendents resided until 1760, when the estate was acquired by a local named
Castelnau, which divided between him and the Candale family in 1776. The
latter took the chateau, renaming it Chateau de Candale. The estate was
already well established in terms of quality, and was one of the first classed
growths to develop international reputation.
Thomas Jefferson also made reference of it
in 1787. The two families continue to hold the tenure throughout the 18th
century, until acquired by Justin Duluc in 1825. Duluc revitalized
the vineyard, before selling it in 1850 to Blanchy, and it was under him that
the estate got the third growth status in the 1855 classification.
His descendents sold the estate to Gustave
Roy, who also owned Chateau Brane-Cantenac. Despite this
absentee landlord, the vineyards continue to enjoy good reputation, due to the
considerable investment including new cellars and vat room, focus on Cabernet
Sauvignon and Merlot, and extensive replanting of Riparia rootstock.
In 1914 the estate changed hands to a
gentleman named Grange, who also owned Chateau Giscours, but unfortunately the
quality deteriorated. During World War II the chateau was occupied by German
troops, and after the war the estate was in a sorry state, as well as the
vineyards. Emmanuel Henri Georges Cruse came to the rescue, purchasing the
property in 1945, at which only 2 hectares were still with vines then, and a
lot of replanting and investment needed to rebuild the cellar.
The grandson of Emmanuel, also called
Emmanuel Cruse, took up the general manager role in 1998. Under
his direction and together with Eric Pellon as technical director, the
restoration of d’Issan continued into the 21st centuries. The new
vines planted were Cabernet Sauvignon, on a vineyard already augmented by new
drainage system.
In the cellars a new grape reception
facility was established and a pneumatic press was also added. There
are 37 stainless steel vats of varying sizes to allow plot-by-plot vinification. A new
barrel cellar was added in 2000, with humidity control installed in 2006. In 2013
Jacky Lorenzetti arrived into the scene, who established the Foncia real estate
in 1972, and after cashing in on his fortune, decided to go after his passion:
wine.
Jacky made several purchases in the
Bordeaux region, including Chateau Lilian-Ladouys in 2008 and Chateau
Pedesclaux in 2009. In 2013 he bought 50% of the stake of Chateau d’Issan, with Emmanuel
Cruse still owning the remaining 50% and continue running the estate and also
assisting Jacky in running the other estates in Pauillac and St-Estephe.
The estate is located close to the D2, with
the road on the west and south is the Cantenac village, while to the north is
the pasture that runs down to the Gironde. Near neighbors
including Rauzan-Segla and Rauzan-Gassies, while on the opposite side of the
road are Palmer and Margaux. The vineyards have expanded considerably since
the acquisition by the Cruse family, to the current size of 53 hectares, but
the whole estate covers approximately 120 hectares which most are the pasture.
The vines are 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30%
Merlot, planting at a density of 8500 vines per hectare. Production of the
second wine is now much increased, with the 10 hectares of the estate’s
vineyards in Haut-Medoc re-classified as Margaux in 2007. The
grand vin is made from vines growing adjacent to the chateau, with typical
gravel terroir and some patches of limestone.
There is also two distant parcels
contributing to the grand vin, one near Prieure-Lichine, and the another lies
near Arsac which was reclassified as Margaux. The fruit is
manually harvested and sees a double hand-sorting before delivery to the reception
area where a third sorting is done on vibrating table. Once complete it
is transferred to the vats for fermentation under temperature control and
guidance of consulting oenologist Jacques Boissenot.
With plot-by-plot vinification, the wine is
typically macerated for 21 days, with malolactic fermentation encouraged
afterwards, before the wine going into oak. The grand vin sees
50% new oak, with annual production about 5000-6000 cases. Age of vine
for second wine Blason d’Issan is averaging 18 years, going into 35% new oak,
about 5000 cases production. The estate also produced a Haut-Medoc wine
called Chateau de Candale, and the plot renamed to Margaux is named Moulin
d’Issan.
I have
recently tasted the 2004 vintage and below is my tasting note:
Appearance
Bright
and clear, it has deep ruby color, with fading rims and legs.
Nose
Clean,
with medium (+) intensity aromas of black fruit such as blackberry and cassis,
maturity notes of tobacco and forest floor, mineral notes of earth, oak notes
of cedar, animal notes of meaty and farmyard. The wine is developing.
Palate
Dry with
medium acidity, the wine has medium tannin of ripe and well-integrated texture,
exhibiting medium alcohol and medium body. It has medium (+) intensity flavors
of black fruit such as blackberry and cassis, maturity notes of tobacco, oak
notes of cedar, kernel notes of chocolate. The wine has a medium (+) finish.
Conclusion
Very
good quality Margaux demonstrating the beauty of developed Bordeaux, the wine
has good intensity on the nose showing a nice balance of complex aromas. On the
palate the wine is balanced, with elegance and typical Margaux finesse, having
a smooth and enjoying tannin, supported by concentrated flavors and a fairly long
finish. A good value wine in my opinion, it is ready to drink now and should
drink now but can maintain for another 2-3 years.
Appearance
The newlyweds started off with 30 hectares
of vineyards, and the wine enjoyed good reputation and thus good price,
matching those of the leading properties such as Lascombes. Even
Thomas Jefferson made a positive assessment following his visit there in 1787. 
Today it is owned by Pierre’s sons, Jean,
Philippe and Pierre-Louis. The vineyards account for about 38 hectares,
with the largest section on the Labegorce plateau near Chateau Lascombes, with
the terroir is typical gravel soil over clay.
