2015年2月11日 星期三

Chateau Lafaurie-Peyraguey


The oldest reference of Lafaurie-Peyraguey mentioned the construction of a fortified keep in the 13th century, before viticulture started. In the early 17th century the land was owned by Raymond Peyraguey, a member of the rural bourgeois who settled in Bommes in 1618.
In 1742 it was acquired by Baron Nicolas-Pierre de Pichard, a local parliamentarian who also owned Lafite and Coutet, and also oversaw the construction of dedicated winemaking facilities. He met his end during the Revolution, and his estate, known as Pichard-Peyraguey then, was first leased to a local named Vignon, before sold as a national asset in 1796 to Lafaurie and Mauros, with the former buying out the latter subsequently.

Lafaurie also owned a stake in nearby Chateau d’Arche, and renamed the estate Lafaurie-Peyraguey, and got it ranked third place in the 1855 classification, directly behind d’Yquem and La Tour Blanche. When Lafaurie died the estate was passed to his widow, who married again to St-Rieul-Dupouy, who later sold it to Comte Duchatel, proprietor of Chateau Lagrange, in 1865.
By then the vineyards shrunk to 27 hectares, but he refurbished extensively, remodeling the chateau and buildings, responsible for the appearance of the current estate. Upon his death the property was passed to his daughter Charlotte de Tremoille, who sold the chateau and cellars to Farinel et Gredy in 1879, continued to be named Lafaurie-Peyraguey, and the other portion to Grillon, becoming the current Clos Haut-Peyraguey.

Under the Gredy family the quality started to decline, partly due to phylloxera and oidium, also the backdrop of war and recession. It was later sold to Desire Cordier in 1917, with the Cordier family continued to run for much of the century. The winemaking responsibility was given to Michel Laporte in 1983, seeing renewed success.
In 1984 it was acquired by the Suez Group, now known as GDF Suez after several mergers. Between 1998 and 2004 the chateau, other buildings and the vineyard have all seen significant work, with climate-controlled cellars.

The 48-hectare vineyards are scattered across Bommes, Sauternes, Preignac and Fargues, with three main plots, the first of 11 hectare lying directly behind and around the chateau, the second of 5 hectare at a slightly higher elevation, adjacent to the Lafaurie sibling Clos Haut-Peyraguey, and the third of 5 hectare closer to Guiraud, with the remaining small plots near Rieussec, Yquem and Suduiraut.
There was a vineyard originally under d’Arche but got cleaved off during Revolution and resold to the Cordiers after the Revolution. The soils are rich in silica and gravel, with some variations in soils because of wide distribution of plots, which also protected against failure in any one vintage. Today Semillon accounts for almost all the vineyard, with only 8% Sauvignon Blanc and 2% Muscadelle, of average vine age of 40 years.

The fruit is harvested by hand in multiple tries, between 3-7 depending on the vintage, with average yield of 18 hl/ha, with pneumatic pressing and subsequently in vertical basket press. There is cold soaking at 15 degree Celsius followed by alcoholic fermentation, entirely in French oak of which 30% are new. After that the wine is aged in the same barrique for between 18-20 months, with racking every 3-5 months. The grand vin is Chateau Lafaurie-Peyraguey of about 5500 cases and a second wine.

I have recently tasted the 2007 vintage and below is my tasting note:

Appearance
Bright and clear, it has deep gold color, with fading rims and legs.

Nose
Clean, with medium (+) intensity aromas of stone fruit of apricot, citrus fruit of blood orange, tropical fruit of pineapple, floral notes of honeysuckle, oak notes of pine and butterscotch, dried fruit of raisin, maturity notes of honey and botrytis, mineral notes of beeswax, sweet spice of ginger candy. The wine is developing.

Palate
Sweet with high acidity, the wine has medium alcohol level, showing a bit of warmness. It has medium (+) body and medium (+) intensity on flavors of stone fruit of apricot, tropical fruit of pineapple, citrus fruit of orange marmalade, oak notes of butterscotch and caramel, maturity notes of honey, sweet spice of ginger candy. The wine has a medium (+) finish.

Conclusion
Very good quality high-priced Sauternes with good intensity on the nose showing high complexity, but the most notable is the surprising light palate, with not only the acidity balancing well to bring nice refreshing enjoyment but also highlighting the elegance and finesse of a good Sauternes, which despite the concentration did provide a delicate feel. Ready to drink now though can further develop for another 8-10 years.

沒有留言:

張貼留言