Neighboring
d’Yquem, located atop a gravel croupe, Chateau de Rayne-Vigneau is second only
to its neighbor in terms of volume and grandeur. Historically it ranked third
of all the premiers crus in the 1855 classification of Sauternes and Barsac,
behind only La Tour Blanche and Lafaurie-Peyraguey.
In 1635
the estate was the property of Gabriel de Vignau, who later passed to his son
Etienne in 1681. Etienne was married with Jeanne Sauvage, a daughter of the
family that owned Ch. d’Yquem, and it was later sold by Jeanne’s nephew
Hyacinthe in 1742 to a local merchant Jean Duffour, who bequeathed to his son
Bruno in 1774.
Bruno
fortunately held onto the estate during the French Revolution. But it was later
acquired by Catherine Marie de Rayne, the widow of Baron de Rayne, in 1843. Catherine
was originally a Pontac from the family owning Haut-Brion, and the estate was
referred as Cru de Vigneau or Vigneau-Pontac.
Under
the tenure of the Rayne-Pontac family, the estate was successful and got good
ranking in the 1855 classification, being third overall among all premiers
crus, behind only La Tour Blanche and Lafaurie-Peyraguey. With her death the
estate was bequeathed to her brother Vicomte Gabriel de Pontac, who built the
chateau in the 1870s.
It was
subsequently passed to Gabriel’s son Albert, who named the estate Rayne-Vigneau
to honor his ancestors. Albert managed the estate until his death in the 1920s,
and it was passed to his son-in-law Vicomte de Roton, who had been also the
Major of Bommes and Vice-President of local Syndicat Viticole.
The
property was then passed to his son Vicomte Francois, who had to sell in 1961
after difficult times, with the new owner Georges Raoux only taking the
vineyard and cellar, still leaving the chateau to the Vicomte. Unfortunately
the investment did not come and the estate further deteriorated, until it was
sold to Mestrezat in 1971.
Mestrezat
has been under the direction of Jacques Merlaut, who had also acquired other
Bordeaux properties. With the investment from Mestrezat and also Vignerons de
Val d’Orbieu, a leading Languedoc co-operative, Rayne-Vigneau was revitalized.
But in 2004 the co-operative decided to sell out.
Mestrezat
then introduced Credit Agricole, which acquired more than 400 ha of vineyards,
including Rayne-Vigneau, becoming its sole owner and now managing under Credit
Agricole Grands Crus, by Thierry Budin.
The
estate sits on a gravel ridge, with the vineyards running down the slopes away
from the chateau. The soils are a mixture of sand and clay, with some precious
and semi-precious stones including onyx, sapphire, amethyst and opal. The
vineyards cover 84 ha and are dominated by 74% Semillon, 24% Sauvignon Blanc
and 2% Muscadelle. The vines average about 30 years of age.
There
are typically five passes through the vineyard during harvest, and the berries
are sorted over a table before batch fermentation in oak barrels. The oak is
between 40% to 50% new each year, and the whole process is under consultation
of Denis Dubourdieu. The grand vin is Chateau de Rayne-Vigneau, with a second
wine Madame de Rayne, in honor of Catherine Marie de Rayne. There is also a dry
white produced back to at least 1980s, using just Sauvignon Blanc.
The
investment from Mestrezat also brought about the technological advancement of
cryo-extraction, which is used to deal with the swollen grapes and diluted
juice in a wet harvest, when the botrytis potentially turning into the damaging
grey rot. In 1982 the estate decided to undergo some trials of freezing the
berries to remove water in the form of ice, leaving only the rich botrytised
juice, allowing the concentration of the must.
However,
the concentration in this fashion can accentuate the displeasing flavors of the
rot, and many producers opt not to use this technique. Nevertheless it is still
accepted by many others outside Rayne-Vigneau, but the trend seems to be
declining.
I have
recently tasted the 2001 vintage and below is my tasting note:
Appearance
Bright
and clear, it is of medium intensity gold color, with legs.
Nose
Clean,
with pronounced intensity aromas showing citrus fruit such as orange marmalade
and lemon peel, stone fruit of apricot, tropical fruit of pineapple, maturity
notes of honey, oak notes of butterscotch. The wine is developing.
Palate
Sweet
with medium (+) acidity, the wine has medium alcohol a full body, with medium
(+) intensity flavors of citrus fruit such as orange marmalade and lemon zest,
stone fruit of peach and apricot, tropical fruit of melon, maturity notes of
honey and oak notes of butterscotch. The wine has a medium (+) finish.
Conclusion
Good
quality Sauternes with good concentration, showing a nose of good complexity,
the wine has the right acidity to balance the sweetness and making it not too
cloying despite its high sugar level, with still a refreshing sensation on the
palate, of good intensity and reasonable complexity, plus a fairly long finish.
It is ready to drink now though can benefit from further ageing of another 3-5
years.
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