Aligote
is Burgundy’s second white grape variety, but is much less than Chardonnay in
plantings. A natural progeny of Pinot and Gouais Blanc, it is believed to
originate in Burgundy, and was once interplanted with Chardonnay for its high acidity.
The grape is now mainly planted in areas not suitable for Pinot Noir and
Chardonnay, confined mostly to hilltop vineyards and the plain.
Vigorous
and early budding, Aligote is quite susceptible to spring frost and grey rot. Traditionally
it is mixed with cassis to make kir. An aperitif that is not so common outside
France.
There
are two main appellations in Burgundy: Bourgogne Aligote and Aligote Bouzeron. Bouzeron
is a commune in Cote Chalonnaise, and the wine provides fresh buttermilk
flavors. Some can age well but generally it is for drinking young and are not
taking well to oak ageing. Aligote can also be included in the blend of Cremant
de Bourgogne.
In
Eastern Europe it is widely planted in Romania, Bulgaria, Russia and other CIS
countries, but the high yield affects the overall quality. It is also planted
in Chile and California. Best producers include d’Auvenay, M. Bouzereau,
Coche-Dury, Jayer-Gilles, A&P de Villaine, Michael Lafarge and Ponsot.
I have
recently tasted a Bourgogne Aligote from Anne Boisson, and below is my tasting
note:
Appearance
Bright
and clear, it is of light intensity lemon color, with legs.
Nose
Clean,
with medium intensity aromas showing green fruit of green apple, citrus fruit
of lemon, herbaceous notes of grass, kernel notes of hazelnut, dairy notes of
cream and butter, oak notes of smoke. The wine is youthful.
Palate
Dry with
medium (+) acidity, the wine is of medium alcohol, with a medium (-) body, and
showing medium intensity flavors of green fruit such as green apple, citrus
notes of lemon, mineral notes of stony, dairy notes of yoghurt, herbaceous
notes of grass. The wine has a medium finish.
Conclusion
Good
quality Bourgogne Aligote with a reasonably intense nose showing fairly good
complexity, the wine has exhibited typical Aligote characters with a good
structure, balancing well the fruit and oak, plus having refreshing crispiness
with good acidity. The palate is also reasonably concentrated but a bit more
simple, though overall still a good wine with reasonable finish. Ready to drink
now and not intend for further ageing, but can keep for another 1-2 years.
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