2013年7月15日 星期一

Aligote


Aligote is Burgundy’s second white grape variety, but is much less than Chardonnay in plantings. A natural progeny of Pinot and Gouais Blanc, it is believed to originate in Burgundy, and was once interplanted with Chardonnay for its high acidity. The grape is now mainly planted in areas not suitable for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, confined mostly to hilltop vineyards and the plain.

Vigorous and early budding, Aligote is quite susceptible to spring frost and grey rot. Traditionally it is mixed with cassis to make kir. An aperitif that is not so common outside France.

There are two main appellations in Burgundy: Bourgogne Aligote and Aligote Bouzeron. Bouzeron is a commune in Cote Chalonnaise, and the wine provides fresh buttermilk flavors. Some can age well but generally it is for drinking young and are not taking well to oak ageing. Aligote can also be included in the blend of Cremant de Bourgogne.

In Eastern Europe it is widely planted in Romania, Bulgaria, Russia and other CIS countries, but the high yield affects the overall quality. It is also planted in Chile and California. Best producers include d’Auvenay, M. Bouzereau, Coche-Dury, Jayer-Gilles, A&P de Villaine, Michael Lafarge and Ponsot.

I have recently tasted a Bourgogne Aligote from Anne Boisson, and below is my tasting note:

Appearance
Bright and clear, it is of light intensity lemon color, with legs.

Nose
Clean, with medium intensity aromas showing green fruit of green apple, citrus fruit of lemon, herbaceous notes of grass, kernel notes of hazelnut, dairy notes of cream and butter, oak notes of smoke. The wine is youthful.

Palate
Dry with medium (+) acidity, the wine is of medium alcohol, with a medium (-) body, and showing medium intensity flavors of green fruit such as green apple, citrus notes of lemon, mineral notes of stony, dairy notes of yoghurt, herbaceous notes of grass. The wine has a medium finish.

Conclusion
Good quality Bourgogne Aligote with a reasonably intense nose showing fairly good complexity, the wine has exhibited typical Aligote characters with a good structure, balancing well the fruit and oak, plus having refreshing crispiness with good acidity. The palate is also reasonably concentrated but a bit more simple, though overall still a good wine with reasonable finish. Ready to drink now and not intend for further ageing, but can keep for another 1-2 years.

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