2013年6月14日 星期五

Chateau de Pez


Pez is a small village in St-Estephe, home to a number of Cru Bourgeois properties, including the chateau featuring here – Chateau de Pez. The history of the estate was dated back to at least the 15th century, making it one of the oldest in St-Estephe along with Calon-Segur.

In 1452 it was under the ownership of Jean de Briscos, and by 1526 it was named Ducos, and was subsequently acquired into the hands of Jean de Pontac in 1585. The Pontac family had a long association with Chateau Haut-Brion and Jean was credited as establishing viticulture in Chateau de Pez.

The estate came to Marquis d’Aulede and then Count de Fumel in the later years and during the revolution it was confiscated by the citizens and sold, followed by many change of hands from a number of different owners.

In late 20th century it was sold again, to Rouzauds of Roederer, who own also the famous champagne business along with some other chateaux in Bordeaux. The purchase was done in 1995, and the family also owned Chateau Haut-Beausejour in St-Estephe.

Totaling 39 ha, the vineyards are located on a plateau just to the west of the village of St-Estephe. The soil is typically gravel sitting on a limestone bedrock. The vines are trained in double Guyot system, at a density of 6500 vines per ha. Average age of vine is 25 years, with 48% Merlot, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot and 1% Malbec, but the latter two often did not appear in the blend.

The yield is 32 hl/ha (referencing 2010 vintage), well under the limit of the appellation. Upon harvest, the grapes are first destemmed, and then ferment for about 20-30 days, before going into oak barrels for 12-18 months. Blending happens after the harvest, with 40% new wood, 40% one year-old wood and 20% two year-old wood used.

With racking every three months, the wine is fined with egg white after one year, and then bottle without filtration. Total production is about 10000 to 12500 cases per year, without any second wine.

I have recently tasted the 2006 vintage and below is my tasting note:

Good quality St-Estephe of medium ruby color, with an intense nose of good complexity, showing developing aromas of blackberry and cassis, liquorice, savory and tobacco, cedar, cocoa, cream and earth. Medium in acidity, the tannin is ripe and silky. The medium-bodied wine has a more simple palate, reasonably concentrated, showing flavors of blackberry and dark plum, liquorice and cedar. Overall in balance and having a reasonably long finish, it is ready to drink now though can benefit from further ageing of another 3-5 years.

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