Chateau Clinet
is a wine that used to be held in high regard in the early 19th
century. During that time it was in the hands of the Arnaud family who also
owned Petrus, and the wine was selling at a high price already. Then it was
acquired by the Constant family in 1860s, who also owned La Fleur-Petrus. The
estate changed hands a few times later on, and unfortunately the quality
deteriorated.
In the
turn of the century the estate saw some stability in ownership, and during that
time it was under M. Lugnot. When Lugnot senior died he passed the estate to
his daughter, and the property came to the Audy family by marriage. George Audy
then passed to his daughter and together with her husband Jean-Michel Arcaute, they
steered Clinet to its current position.
Originally
there was a higher proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon, accounting for 25% of the
vineyard, but in 1980 Arcaute chose to plant a higher proportion of Merlot. Arcaute
recruited his friend Michel Rolland in 1985, quality continued to improve and
the wines subsequently also received many strong praises.
In the
vineyard green harvesting and leaf-thinning were adopted, with the harvesting
delayed till the ripeness was certain. Manual harvesting was mandated and the
grapes were transported using small plastic trays and then manually sorted
again in the chai. A second wine was introduced to sort out the best for the
grand vin, and more new oak was also used.
Despite
the success the estate was later sold to GAN Insurance Group in 1991, with
Arcaute staying on as an administrator, but lasted only a few years before in
1998 it was acquired by Jean-Louis Laborde. His son Ronan is now managing the
property since 2003, at a young age, with also a similarly young winemaker
Romain Ducolomb.
Today it
covers 9 ha and planted with 85% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cabernet
Franc, at a density of 6600 vines per ha. The property is located in the heart
of Pomerol, close to the church. There are three plots, Les Grandes Vignes
having a gravelly terroir, closest to the church; Les Argilles has more clay
and Le Plateau is directly adjacent to L’Eglise-Clinet.
The
average vine age is 40 years, and are planted by avoiding the use of chemicals
whenever possible. Once harvested the wines are vinified plot-by-plot, in
wooden vats of 40-60 hl with temperature control, for about four weeks, before
putting in 100% new oak for malolactic fermentation, up to 24 months. The wine
is then bottled without fining and filtration, with about 3000 cases of grand
vin and 500 cases of second wine Fleur de Clinet.
I have recently tasted the 1994 vintage and below is my tasting note:
Very good quality Pomerol with deep garnet color, it got a reasonably intense nose which is highly complex, showing developing aromas of blackberry, black cherry and dark plum, cedar, savory and forest floor, meaty and leather, liquorice, coffee. The wine has good acidity and freshness, despite its 20 years age it is still vibrant and showing good balance and structure. The tannin is smooth and silky, with a reasonably concentrated palate of blackberry, black cherry and dark plum, meaty, blackcurrant leaf, cedar, truffle. With a fair finish, the wine is ready to drink now and not intend for further ageing, though can be maintained for another 5-8 years.
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