2013年6月7日 星期五

Chateau Clinet


Chateau Clinet is a wine that used to be held in high regard in the early 19th century. During that time it was in the hands of the Arnaud family who also owned Petrus, and the wine was selling at a high price already. Then it was acquired by the Constant family in 1860s, who also owned La Fleur-Petrus. The estate changed hands a few times later on, and unfortunately the quality deteriorated.

In the turn of the century the estate saw some stability in ownership, and during that time it was under M. Lugnot. When Lugnot senior died he passed the estate to his daughter, and the property came to the Audy family by marriage. George Audy then passed to his daughter and together with her husband Jean-Michel Arcaute, they steered Clinet to its current position.

Originally there was a higher proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon, accounting for 25% of the vineyard, but in 1980 Arcaute chose to plant a higher proportion of Merlot. Arcaute recruited his friend Michel Rolland in 1985, quality continued to improve and the wines subsequently also received many strong praises.

In the vineyard green harvesting and leaf-thinning were adopted, with the harvesting delayed till the ripeness was certain. Manual harvesting was mandated and the grapes were transported using small plastic trays and then manually sorted again in the chai. A second wine was introduced to sort out the best for the grand vin, and more new oak was also used.

Despite the success the estate was later sold to GAN Insurance Group in 1991, with Arcaute staying on as an administrator, but lasted only a few years before in 1998 it was acquired by Jean-Louis Laborde. His son Ronan is now managing the property since 2003, at a young age, with also a similarly young winemaker Romain Ducolomb.

Today it covers 9 ha and planted with 85% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cabernet Franc, at a density of 6600 vines per ha. The property is located in the heart of Pomerol, close to the church. There are three plots, Les Grandes Vignes having a gravelly terroir, closest to the church; Les Argilles has more clay and Le Plateau is directly adjacent to L’Eglise-Clinet.

The average vine age is 40 years, and are planted by avoiding the use of chemicals whenever possible. Once harvested the wines are vinified plot-by-plot, in wooden vats of 40-60 hl with temperature control, for about four weeks, before putting in 100% new oak for malolactic fermentation, up to 24 months. The wine is then bottled without fining and filtration, with about 3000 cases of grand vin and 500 cases of second wine Fleur de Clinet.
 
I have recently tasted the 1994 vintage and below is my tasting note:
 
Very good quality Pomerol with deep garnet color, it got a reasonably intense nose which is highly complex, showing developing aromas of blackberry, black cherry and dark plum, cedar, savory and forest floor, meaty and leather, liquorice, coffee. The wine has good acidity and freshness, despite its 20 years age it is still vibrant and showing good balance and structure. The tannin is smooth and silky, with a reasonably concentrated palate of blackberry, black cherry and dark plum, meaty, blackcurrant leaf, cedar, truffle. With a fair finish, the wine is ready to drink now and not intend for further ageing, though can be maintained for another 5-8 years.

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