2013年1月28日 星期一

Chateau Rauzan-Segla


The Rauzan estate was where the two chateaux of Rauzan-Segla and Rauzan-Gassies originated, which were both second growths of the 1855 classification, located in Margaux.

The estate was first acquired by Pierre des Mesures de Rauzan in 1661. Pierre was a powerful negociant, who had run Chateau Margaux and Chateau Latour, and his time spent with the first growths contributed to his decision to buy the estate later on. At his death in 1692, the estate was passed to his three sons, with the youngest taking over the title and the responsibility of the vineyards.

In 1763 the estate was divided between Jean-Baptiste de Rauzan and a nephew, Jean de Roulier, but the two estates continued to function as one. But when Catherine de Rauzan married to Baron de Segla, the split was complete, becoming the now Rauzan-Segla.

In the 1855 classification Rauzan-Segla was ranked much higher than Rauzan-Gassies, and actually it was ranked at the top of the second growths only behind Mouton. In 1903 it was acquired by Frederic Cruse, but without much investment in the cellar the quality deteriorated. Cruse did construct the current chateau but had to sell the estate in 1956.

The estate was later sold to a Liverpool firm John Holt in 1960, with the management turning to Eschenauer, aiming to turnaround the property. The high-yield and low quality Merlot was replanted with fresh swathes of Cabernet Sauvignon and with the appointment of Jacques Theo in 1983, the quality further improved with the replacement of the cellar master and the mouldy barrels with stainless steel equipment.

It was later acquired by Brent Walker in 1989, who in 1994 sold again to the Chanel group. The Wertheimer family of Chanel installed a new winemaking team, headed by John Kolasa, with more new equipment including sorting tables, field drains to prevent the flood at the vineyards, and renovation of the cellars and chateau.

The total vineyard size is 62ha, but the estate actually covers 75ha. Among that, 52ha has vine density increased from 6,000 vines per hectare to 10,000 vines. A purchase of an additional 10.5ha from nearby Alesme-Becker and Arsac contributed to the second wine, known as Segla and was introduced in 1995.

Cabernet Sauvignon now contributes 54%, with 41% Merlot, 1% Cabernet Franc, 4% Petit Verdot. The soil is typical gravel of the Medoc, and during the growing season leaf thinning and green harvesting is practiced. Now only manually harvested, the grapes would go through sorting at the reception, destemming and then another sorting.

Each plot is vinified separately, with the fruit being transferred by gravity to temperature-controlled stainless steel vats for fermentation. The wine will then go into barrel, about 50-60% new, for up to 20 months, with traditional racking undertaken every 3 months, before fining with egg white and bottled unfiltered.

The grand vin is Chateau Rauzan-Segla, typically producing 10-12,000 cases per year, with 55-68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32-40% Merlot and minor contributions from Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.

With rigorous selection, only the best of the harvest goes into the grand vin, with the rest going to the second wine Segla, which has about 12,000 cases produced per year. In 1987, for example, no grand vin was produced because of the quality issue. The 2009 label was a commission by Karl Lagerfeld to commemorate the 350th anniversary of the original estate.

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