2011年12月23日 星期五

Navarra

In the wake of phylloxera in Bordeaux, many negociants came to Spain to find the wines to substitute. Rioja and Navarra were the principal areas for such and in the end, because of the proximity to the railway at Haro, Rioja won out. Navarra was then mainly focusing on Garnacha to produce the rosados and strong, bulk reds. However, with the international varieties like Cabernet, Merlot and Chardonnay, there came a revolution.
Tempranillo has now overtaken Garnacha in total area and Cabernet Sauvignon the third most planted. But Garnacha old vines still found their value in wines like Chivite’s Gran Feudo Vinas Viejas Reserva and Lautus. The most exported wines from Navarra is a bridge between Rioja and Somontano, obviously oaked but a blend of Spanish and international varieties. French oak is also commonly used.
There is a wide difference in Navarra, with Ribera Baja and Ribera Alta subzones in the south having to irrigate because of its hot and dry climate, with Ribera Alta even warmer and more exposed to Mediterranean, as Ribera Baja is protected by the Sierra del Moncayo. Ribera Baja produces good Garnacha but also excellent botrytised Moscatel de Grano Menudo (Muscat Blanc).
In the north it is much cooler because of the Atlantic. As in Rioja, the grapes are picked considerably later, with the Bordeaux varieties even later than Bordeaux itself. Baja Montana on the east is mainly producing rosados and Tierra Estella and Valdizarbe have so much variation that growers have to select sites with extreme care.
Wine: Bodegas Julian Chivite Coleccion 125 Reserva
Region / Country: Navarra Spain
Vintage: 2005
Grape: 65% Tempranillo, 30% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon
ABV: 14%                    
Price: HK$315
Tasting Date: 23 December 2011
Wineshark Score: 90

A good quality Navarra red with deep purple colour and a reasonably intense and developing nose of rubber, black cherry, plum, oak, strawberry, cedar and liquorice. Fairly complex and showing good ageing with the unique rubber aroma. Slightly lower in acidity, the wine has medium tannin of ripe and fine-grained texture. A slightly warming alcohol making it enjoyable in the current cool weather. Medium-bodied, the palate is of reasonable intensity, exhibiting blackberry, plum, black cherry, liquorice and vanilla. A reasonable length ensues. Overall it is well balanced and smooth. Ready to drink now but has potential for further ageing of another 4-6 years.

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