It is difficult to classify which type of cuisine Table is known for, as Chef Sandy Keung has put more emphasis on how to best highlight the ingredients, especially seafood, than any specific type of cooking. She is also of an interesting background, from being a banker and executive, mastering culinary skills through self-learning, to opening her own restaurant in 2014. Knowing that they have recently moved to H Queen’s in Central, I come here for my weekly mystery restaurant visit.
Right beside the reception, there is a small lobby area where customers can enjoy some beverages before going into the dining space. It also leads to a balcony where one can enjoy some fresh air and look at the Central skyline. The dining area has hip décor, with dark wall on one side showing some paintings of cats, and big windows on the other side. We are seated at a table at the corner, with nice privacy and comfortable space.
Before looking at the menu we are provided with a welcome drink, a Chamomile Tea with Fig. A healthy tea with a bit of herbal bitterness, supplemented with nice floral and sweet fragrance.
We have pre-ordered the Signature Series Private Bespoke Menu 2 ($1,789 each), and even though there is no wine pairing option, sommelier Zack helps to recommend several wines to match with our food. To start as an aperitif, I have a glass of Champagne Tellier Les Massales Rose Extra Brut ($289). With a fine mousse, the wine has delicate strawberry notes and nice fruitiness, balancing with good acidity. Refreshing.
The wine for the first couple of dishes is Domaine Gerard Fiou Sancerre Le Grand Roc Blanc 2022 ($249). A Sauvignon Blanc with a nice flinty nose, the wine is crisp and refreshing, with good finesse and its minerality is a good match with shellfish.
The first course is Pan-fried Brittany Scallop 法國扇貝 椰子海帶醬. Beautifully seared with the surface nicely caramelized while the flesh is still moist and soft, the scallop has a sweet taste which goes well with the cream sauce, made with kelp and coconut, with poppy seeds for additional texture. On the side is the ponzu citrus seaweed salad to provide balance as an appetizer. Very nicely done.
The second course is Gillardeau Plankton Congee 法國生蠔粥. Inside the bowl is the raw French oyster, and then the server helps to scoop in the hot, green-color plankton congee on top. Plankton is a mix of floating small organisms and algae in the sea, which the chef has added to prepare the congee. The oyster has very deep, amazing flavors, complemented perfectly with the umami of the congee. It is truly wonderful and not to be missed.
The wine chosen for the next few courses is Cellier des Dames Rully Blanc Saint Jacques 2020 ($229). The Chardonnay has an elegant nose of flowers, with nice citrus and white peaches, hints of development in honey and kernel. Good to match with white meat and seafood.
The third course features Hokkaido Uni and Overnight Salted Silver Tile Fish 北海道海膽 一夜乾青根魚. The fish fillet has been marinated for a night to impart a bit of saltiness and keep the flesh soft, before grilling on the surface. Underneath is a French rouille sauce, with a touch of beef jus to season, as if soy sauce has been used. On top is the sea urchin with some sancho to give a bit of spiciness as seasoning. Delicious and complicated in flavors. Very good.
The fourth course is Lobster Espresso 龍蝦濃湯. Creatively presented by having the thick, rich and concentrated lobster bisque served in an espresso cup, with a thick layer of foam also made from the lobster bisque. On the side is a skewer of lobster meat, for dipping into the soup to enjoy, before finishing the soup. Not only are its flavors phenomenal, serving the soup in very hot temperature also recreates the espresso experience to the full degree. Another must try.
The fifth course features Geoduck Clams 象拔蚌 法式芥末香草香蒜醬. The clam is cut into thin slices, lightly poached to keep it soft and avoid turning rubbery, with a potato foam and cream sauce made from Pommery mustard, herbs, and garlic, drizzled with some pigeon jus to add a touch of savory. Another great dish which has a broad array of flavors but is still able to spotlight the main ingredient to its best. It is another dish not to be missed.
The sixth course is an interesting combination, presenting Fish Maw in western style 花膠配以50個月風乾黑毛豬火腿, served with a tomato-based fish bouillon of deep seafood flavors, together with Parmesan cheese and chili, plus 50-Month Iberico Jomon to add an extra layer of savory flavors. The fish maw was soft and did not feel out of place in the dish, with everything harmonized and delicious. I applaud again the chef for her creativity and willingness to explore.
The next wine is Domaine du Pelican Arbois Savagnin Sous Voile 2018 ($329). The Jura wine has a nice oxidation character, with a style very similar to sherry, having subtle savoury and saline characters, plus lots of nuts, citrus and a bit of tropical fruit. A good pairing with crab.
The seventh course is the signature dish, and Chef Sandy Keung has told us that her grandmother loves it very much. After showing us the Mud Crab Roe & Meat, Garlic Rice 膏蟹肉和蟹膏 伴蒜香越光米, the staff helps to mix the crab roe with the rice before serving to us. The crab is meaty and sweet in taste, but honestly the rice is the star, with rich flavors from the roe, just right and not too dry or moist. Even though we need to get our hands dirty in eating the crab, we do not mind as it can truly provide the best experience and taste. A must order.
The dessert 甜點 is Ginger Souffle. The souffle is fluffy and light, with an aromatic ginger fragrance, appropriate in sweetness. The chef jokingly says that she prepares this one as she does not just want to offer us ginger tea after the crab rice. A good and complete finish to a wonderful meal which we all both feel highly satisfied and happy.
Service is very good, with the staff all friendly and attentive, checking in with us and introducing the dishes and wines throughout. Sandy has also kindly brought us to see the depuration tanks and explained why she spent the investment to ensure the cleanliness of the seafood. The bill on the night is $5,339. It is no easy feat to cook delicious dishes, but it is even more heart-warming to know how the chef is taking care of your health with high quality and safe ingredients. A salute to Chef Sandy Keung.
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