2025年4月29日 星期二

Wineshark Mystery Restaurant - Mandarin Grill & Bar


This steakhouse is in Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong and has been a Michelin-starred restaurant for many years. Unfortunately, in the recent 2025 edition it was taken out from the award list. Having visited a few times with good memories, today we returned to Mandarin Grill & Bar at the end of the long Easter weekend to see what had happened.


Arriving in the early evening the staff led us to our table on the window side. It was a quiet evening, and we were the first group of customers. The area still has the same décor, with neat white tablecloths, comfortable soft velvet chairs, as well as the see-through kitchen at the back, though it has a much slower business nowadays.



Taking the Sunset Tasting Menu ($1,888 per person, including one selected beverage), I also ordered a glass of Ruinart Blanc de Blancs ($284). Two Amuse Bouche were served, one was Smoked Salmon Cone, with mashed salmon inside, topped with pike roe for poppy texture. The second one was a Green Peas Tartlet, with the small peas tender and sweet, together with peas puree inside. Among the two, the latter one was my preference.


The first course was Starter, with Ivy going for King Crab and Caviar Tin. Signature of the restaurant, inside a tin the chef had put the Alaska king crab meat, leek and green peas at the bottom, with a layer of prized oscietra caviar on top, surrounded by some green peas and squid ink puree. The savoury of the caviar added to the delicate sweetness of the crab meat to provide a nice combination of flavours. Very good.


I had the Homemade Smoked Salmon instead. Carved on tableside, the smoked salmon were thinly sliced, and there were different condiments available, where I picked capers, onions and chives. With a squeeze of lemon juice, it was delicious, with the smokiness just right and not overpowering the flavours. It could see a bit of additional salt to enhance the taste though.


The second course was Soup, with Ivy picking Heirloom Tomato Gazpacho with Oven Roasted Tomato. The gazpacho was rich with flavours, the tomatoes having sweet taste yet balanced well with the acidity, highly refreshing and a perfect soup for summer season. As she generally did not like cold soup, seeing her enjoying it indicated how good it was.


For me I chose Lobster Cappuccino and Crystal Caviar. On the cup was the hot lobster bisque with deep flavours and having a layer of foam on top, while on the side was lobster meat served with caviar in a small tin. The chef recommended me to enjoy the lobster meat first before drinking the soup, as if it was a cappuccino. Compared with the one I tried the week before, the bisque was not as rich and flavourful, but still good in taste.


The third course was the Main, and we opted for Beef Wellington ($488 supplement per person). The tender filet mignon was cooked medium rare, wrapped in bacon and a paste of mushroom, all encased in a beautifully baked puff. Together with a truffle sauce it was super tasty. On the plate there were also some caramelized onion and deep-fried local kale, together with mashed potatoes and sauteed beans on the side.


Before going to desserts there was a small glass of Digestif, which was made from a blend of healthy ingredients including apple, kale, ginger, and beetroot. Having refreshing acidity, but also balanced with sweetness, the drink helped to reduce the heaviness in stomach and got us ready for the desserts.


The fourth and final course was the Desserts, with me going for Basque Cheesecake. The cake had a nice, caramelized top, with the rich cream cheese lighter, looser and airier than the New York style cheesecake the hotel’s cake shop was famous for. On the side was some fig compote as condiment. Delicious.


As Ivy would like to go for some fruit, the staff helpfully arranged a Fruit Platter instead of the options on the menu. With an assortment of fresh fruit, there was also a raspberry sorbet on the side. Another interesting thing was the serving plate, which got fluid inside. I believed the plate was chilled to keep the food on top at a low temperature.


The Petits Fours were Pistachio Chocolate and Liqueur Chocolate. Both were nicely done, and pairing with a cup of espresso allowed me to finish the meal with content.


Service was very good, with the staff very professional and helpfully explaining the menu at the beginning and introducing the dishes throughout the meal. The bill on the night was $4,050 after deducting a $500 voucher and 25% discount from Central+ membership. While the food was good, it somehow did not feel as exciting from prior visits. Perhaps they might need to redesign the menu and find that special element to differentiate.  

2025年4月28日 星期一

Wineshark Mystery Restaurant - Epure


We would be moving to another apartment in two weeks, so I spent the whole Easter holidays busy packing. To reward ourselves for the hard work, I went to Epure to enjoy a decent meal. It was almost five years since my last visit to this Michelin 1-star restaurant, and today we returned to this French restaurant in Harbour City.


Through the glamorous entrance the staff took us to our table, on the window side looking at the terrace. The setting had not changed, with soft lighting creating a cozy ambience, comfortable seating, and a large walk-in cellar displaying many wines inside. We decided to go for the Full Set Menu ($1,888 each), and I also had the 6-Glass wine pairing ($1,380).


For the pairing of the three canapes, the first wine served was Perrier-Jouet Grand Brut NV. A refreshing champagne with a floral, fresh citrus nose supplemented with good buttery brioche and vanilla notes. Well-balanced with crisp acidity.


The first canape was Comte and Truffle Beignet, with the soft and airy puff made from bamboo charcoal and truffle, infused with some melted 24-month Comte cheese of rich and savoury taste, finishing with a Vin Jaune jelly on top to give an oxidative, nutty and cheesy touch. A nice starter.


The second canape was Ama Ebi with Shiitake and Guanciale. Served on a crunchy tartlet crust were the raw Japanese sweet shrimps with some charcoal grilled shiitake mushroom, plus some cured pork cheek to provide a touch of saltiness and savoury, along with a creamy Hollandaise sauce. On top were some crispy fried shreds for additional texture. This was our favourite one among the three starters.


The third canape was Sea Urchin with Jerusalem Artichoke and Nori. Also served on a crunchy tartlet crust, the chef had put the Niigata sea urchin on a shiso leaf with some shredded nori, together with a puree made from the artichoke, and then covered by a transparent shoyu ponzu jelly on top like a glass lid. Rich in umami and flavours.


The second wine was Domaine Valentin Zusslin Les Chapelles Riesling 2020 from Alsace. It had nice floral characters, with green apples and some peach notes. The nice minerality and good acidity matched well with the more delicate taste of the fish.


The first course was Shima Aji with Nashi Pear. The striped jack was served in sashimi style, covered with some fresh Japanese nashi pear that were beautifully cut into flower petals shape, with some prized ossietra caviar on top. The delicate taste of the fish and pear was complementary and did not mask each other, while the sauce, made from yuzu and green apple juice with shiso oil drizzled, was aromatic. Very good in both taste and presentation.


The second course was Landes White Asparagus with Egg Yolk and Pike Roe ‘Kimizu’. The seasonal French white asparagus were very tender, paired with the Japanese kimizu sauce made from egg yolk and rice vinegar, with some pike roe added for a poppy texture. On the side was poured some cold white asparagus soup for enhanced flavours and some small leaf-shaped crumbs for a crunchy mouthfeel. Very delicious and one of my favourites in the evening.


The third wine was Domaine Arnaud Baillot Saint-Aubin Premier Cru Le Charmois 2020. A fresh Chardonnay with refreshing citrus and floral notes, plus some almond characters. The palate had good structure and there was a hint of spiciness on the finish.


The third course was Maine Scallop with Vinaigrette Perle and Sauce Mariniere. The scallop was seared beautifully to golden brown, before slicing into three pieces, with the middle part still moist and soft. Underneath was a delicious white wine sauce with shallots, with some caviar and vinaigrette pearls to provide savoury and acidity for a perfect balance. The sauce was so good I almost asked for more bread to savour the last drop.


The fourth wine was Jean-Paul et Charly Thevenet Morgon 2022. This Beaujolais producer embraced organic farming for decades and the Morgon had bursting sweet red fruit characters, and the signature Gamay bubble gum characters. Its good acidity was essential to balance the richness of the chicken and the sauce.


The fourth course was Three-Yellow Chicken ‘cuit en croute de riz’ with Black Truffle and 30 years Aged Shaoxing Wine. The chicken breast was cooked in a rice crust to retain an amazing tenderness, with some crispy chicken skin on top, along with some prized black truffle for its fragrance. On the side was a Shaoxing wine sauce for additional aromas and flavours. A perfect combination of French techniques with local ingredients.


The fifth wine was Roblet-Monnot Pere et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin Village 2013. A well-balanced Pinot Noir with nice red fruit and some spiciness, not too tannic, and was a good match with pigeon and veal. 


The fifth course was Pigeon with Beetroot and Maqaw Pepper Mignonette. A good portion with two pieces of Brittany pigeon breast slow cooked before grilling to perfect medium rare, with the thigh prepared in confit style. The chef had used the liver to prepare ravioli on the side, supplemented with beetroot jelly and pickled onion to provide acidity. The Taiwan pepper sauce gave a hint of comfortable spiciness, while the consommé was thoughtfully arranged to reduce the fattiness in stomach upon finish. Very delicious.


Before dessert was served Cucumber Sorbet with Bay Leaf Foam, plus some green apple and celery shaved ice at the bottom. The pre-dessert was very refreshing and helped to cleanse the palate.


The sixth wine was Graham’s Late Bottled Vintage Port 2017. The LBV was aromatic, with delicious ripe fruit and prune, some spiciness of liquorice and mint. Having good acidity and development, it was an appealing wine that was not too sweet and a good pairing with the tiramisu.


The sixth course was Tiramisu. Presented in a creative style but still staying true to the recipe and ingredients, wrapping the nutmeg jelly, mascarpone cheese and coffee-soaked lady-finger biscuits with a meringue, made of egg whites and sugar, as a casing, and then dusted with the chocolate powder on top. All flavours were in good balance, it was appropriate in sweetness too. A wonderful finale to a nice dinner.


The Mignardises was a traditional French pastry, Madeleine. Inside the chef had added some lemon verbena to provide a touch of fresh, citrus aromas. Perfect match with a nice cup of espresso.


Service was very good, with the staff all friendly and attentive, able to explain each course and wine in detail for us to appreciate better the dinner. The bill on the night is $5,835. Compared with my last visit, I felt that this time the food quality was even better, and we were satisfied in all the dishes. Well worth its Michelin 1-star status.

2025年4月20日 星期日

Wineshark Mystery Restaurant - Ship Kee 船記


On the eve of Easter holidays, we come to Wanchai to take a look at the big Japanese furniture retailer Nitori, and decide to go for dinner at Ship Kee. We go around in the mall a bit before finding out the restaurant is located at 6/F of the original Hopewell Centre.


The restaurant is very popular, and not before long we can see all the tables occupied. The décor and setting are quite standard, brightly lit, with round tables close to each other. There are also VIP rooms on one side for those who want more privacy.


We start with Ship Kee’s Honey Glazed Barbecued Pork 船記叉燒皇 ($98). Signature of the restaurant, the char siu has been glazed beautifully, with some slight charred on the side, the pork thick in the cut but very tender and juicy, having the right balance of fat and lean meat. The marinate is very well done with rich flavours but not overly salty. One of the best char siu I have tried.


Next, we have Deep-fried Frog Legs in Spiced Salt 椒鹽田雞腿 ($88). The portion is quite big with many pieces of large tender frog legs. The batter is nicely done, thin and crisp, not feeling greasy or oily. The spiced salt is delicious and adds to the taste but it can make you quite thirsty. Good dish to go with some icy beer.


We then have Double-boiled Pork Lung Soup with Fish Maw in Almond Milk 船記頂肺湯 ($288 for two). Another of the signature, the pork lung is cleaned well and without any weird taste, while the almond soup is delicious. The fish maw is of good quality too, large and thick in size. Nicely done and another recommendation.


The last dish we have is Braised Assorted Seafood & Tofu in Chili Sauce 香辣海皇一品煲 ($228). Served in sizzling clay pot, there are plenty of seafood, including prawn, scallop, large grouper fillet, and sea cucumber intestines, but I think the tofu actually are the better of the lot, absorbing the flavours and silky soft. The chili sauce can be a bit spicier however.


Service is good, with the staff friendly and offers us complimentary dessert in the end, though it is quite watery and not having much flavours. The bill on the night is $827 which are reasonable in price. It will be good to try some of their other signature dishes next time, but probably will need to arrange a larger group to do that.

2025年4月15日 星期二

Wineshark Mystery Restaurant - Table by Sandy Keung


It is difficult to classify which type of cuisine Table is known for, as Chef Sandy Keung has put more emphasis on how to best highlight the ingredients, especially seafood, than any specific type of cooking. She is also of an interesting background, from being a banker and executive, mastering culinary skills through self-learning, to opening her own restaurant in 2014. Knowing that they have recently moved to H Queen’s in Central, I come here for my weekly mystery restaurant visit.


Right beside the reception, there is a small lobby area where customers can enjoy some beverages before going into the dining space. It also leads to a balcony where one can enjoy some fresh air and look at the Central skyline. The dining area has hip décor, with dark wall on one side showing some paintings of cats, and big windows on the other side. We are seated at a table at the corner, with nice privacy and comfortable space.


Before looking at the menu we are provided with a welcome drink, a Chamomile Tea with Fig. A healthy tea with a bit of herbal bitterness, supplemented with nice floral and sweet fragrance.


We have pre-ordered the Signature Series Private Bespoke Menu 2 ($1,789 each), and even though there is no wine pairing option, sommelier Zack helps to recommend several wines to match with our food. To start as an aperitif, I have a glass of Champagne Tellier Les Massales Rose Extra Brut ($289). With a fine mousse, the wine has delicate strawberry notes and nice fruitiness, balancing with good acidity. Refreshing.


The wine for the first couple of dishes is Domaine Gerard Fiou Sancerre Le Grand Roc Blanc 2022 ($249). A Sauvignon Blanc with a nice flinty nose, the wine is crisp and refreshing, with good finesse and its minerality is a good match with shellfish.


The first course is Pan-fried Brittany Scallop 法國扇貝 椰子海帶醬. Beautifully seared with the surface nicely caramelized while the flesh is still moist and soft, the scallop has a sweet taste which goes well with the cream sauce, made with kelp and coconut, with poppy seeds for additional texture. On the side is the ponzu citrus seaweed salad to provide balance as an appetizer. Very nicely done.


The second course is Gillardeau Plankton Congee 法國生蠔粥. Inside the bowl is the raw French oyster, and then the server helps to scoop in the hot, green-color plankton congee on top. Plankton is a mix of floating small organisms and algae in the sea, which the chef has added to prepare the congee. The oyster has very deep, amazing flavors, complemented perfectly with the umami of the congee. It is truly wonderful and not to be missed.


The wine chosen for the next few courses is Cellier des Dames Rully Blanc Saint Jacques 2020 ($229). The Chardonnay has an elegant nose of flowers, with nice citrus and white peaches, hints of development in honey and kernel. Good to match with white meat and seafood.


The third course features Hokkaido Uni and Overnight Salted Silver Tile Fish 北海道海膽 一夜乾青根魚. The fish fillet has been marinated for a night to impart a bit of saltiness and keep the flesh soft, before grilling on the surface. Underneath is a French rouille sauce, with a touch of beef jus to season, as if soy sauce has been used. On top is the sea urchin with some sancho to give a bit of spiciness as seasoning. Delicious and complicated in flavors. Very good.


The fourth course is Lobster Espresso 龍蝦濃湯. Creatively presented by having the thick, rich and concentrated lobster bisque served in an espresso cup, with a thick layer of foam also made from the lobster bisque. On the side is a skewer of lobster meat, for dipping into the soup to enjoy, before finishing the soup. Not only are its flavors phenomenal, serving the soup in very hot temperature also recreates the espresso experience to the full degree. Another must try.


The fifth course features Geoduck Clams 象拔蚌 法式芥末香草香蒜醬. The clam is cut into thin slices, lightly poached to keep it soft and avoid turning rubbery, with a potato foam and cream sauce made from Pommery mustard, herbs, and garlic, drizzled with some pigeon jus to add a touch of savory. Another great dish which has a broad array of flavors but is still able to spotlight the main ingredient to its best. It is another dish not to be missed.


The sixth course is an interesting combination, presenting Fish Maw in western style 花膠配以50個月風乾黑毛豬火腿, served with a tomato-based fish bouillon of deep seafood flavors, together with Parmesan cheese and chili, plus 50-Month Iberico Jomon to add an extra layer of savory flavors. The fish maw was soft and did not feel out of place in the dish, with everything harmonized and delicious. I applaud again the chef for her creativity and willingness to explore.


The next wine is Domaine du Pelican Arbois Savagnin Sous Voile 2018 ($329). The Jura wine has a nice oxidation character, with a style very similar to sherry, having subtle savoury and saline characters, plus lots of nuts, citrus and a bit of tropical fruit. A good pairing with crab.


The seventh course is the signature dish, and Chef Sandy Keung has told us that her grandmother loves it very much. After showing us the Mud Crab Roe & Meat, Garlic Rice 膏蟹肉和蟹膏 伴蒜香越光米, the staff helps to mix the crab roe with the rice before serving to us. The crab is meaty and sweet in taste, but honestly the rice is the star, with rich flavors from the roe, just right and not too dry or moist. Even though we need to get our hands dirty in eating the crab, we do not mind as it can truly provide the best experience and taste. A must order.


The dessert 甜點 is Ginger Souffle. The souffle is fluffy and light, with an aromatic ginger fragrance, appropriate in sweetness. The chef jokingly says that she prepares this one as she does not just want to offer us ginger tea after the crab rice. A good and complete finish to a wonderful meal which we all both feel highly satisfied and happy.


Service is very good, with the staff all friendly and attentive, checking in with us and introducing the dishes and wines throughout. Sandy has also kindly brought us to see the depuration tanks and explained why she spent the investment to ensure the cleanliness of the seafood. The bill on the night is $5,339. It is no easy feat to cook delicious dishes, but it is even more heart-warming to know how the chef is taking care of your health with high quality and safe ingredients. A salute to Chef Sandy Keung.