It takes about 40 minutes (31km) from New Chitose Airport to our ryokan for the night, Lake Shikotsu Tsuruga Resort & Spa ‘Mizu no Uta’ 支笏湖鶴雅リゾートスパ 水の謌, located right on the lakeside.
Immediately after the entrance is the Welcome Lounge Wakka, meaning water in Ainu language. With the breeze from Lake Shikotsu in the open space, at its centre are some stone suikinkutsu 水琴窟, a traditional decoration in Japanese garden which can generate a sound like koto, a form of Japanese harp, from drops of water.
Walking beyond the Welcome Lounge is the spacious terrace looking out to a beautiful, well-maintained courtyard with trees. As Halloween is approaching, the ryokan has made some nice festive decorations. There is also a pavilion in the courtyard, Foot Bath 草々の湯.
On the right side of the Welcome Lounge is the Corridor of Water 水の回廊, leading all the way to the guest room building. The relaxing sound from the suikinkutsu is replayed here, soothing the stress and fatigues of the guests.
Before entering the main entrance of the guest room building is the Doma 土間 Gallery, with a large wooden owl sculpture. A great piece of art showcasing Ainu crafts.
Inside is the Reception Area, and at night there is live harp performance where guests can enjoy the serene music.
The Guest Lounge Apeso features a big hearth in the middle, with Apeso meaning hearth in Ainu, recreating the space where the Ainu people gather to make smoked fish to store in the harsh winter in the old days.
Here guests can relax and enjoy some toasted marshmallows in the evening.
On the perimeter of the Guest Lounge is a Library Gallery, with books and photo collections of various genres, many showing the great beauty of Hokkaido and Lake Shikotsu.
The Audio Corner in the Guest Lounge has some nice audio equipment and JBL speakers, a comfortable space to listen to good music.
There are many pieces of arts in the ryokan.
We are staying in Room 380 白根葵, a Premier Suite with Private Open-Air Bath 温泉露天風呂付特別室. There are only four such rooms in the ryokan, all located on the same floor.
This spacious room is over 100 sqm in size, and once enter there
is a dining area with a large table that can sit four people, plus a kitchen on
the side, with sink and heater to allow for simple cooking, suitable for guests
that are staying longer. All the drinks in the fridge are complimentary as well.
Further in is the Western style sitting room, with large comfortable leather sofa and a big TV.
Facing the windows are two massage chairs, so each of us can relax in our own chair at the same time. There is also a writing table on the side.
Next to the sitting room, divided by sliding partitions, is the Western style bedroom, with two soft and comfy beds.
And adjacent is a Japanese style room with another TV. This room is another living room which can be converted to a bedroom to accommodate another two guests if necessary.
The toilet is spacious and neat, well-lighted and ventilated.
The bathroom is very large in size, with two sinks and good quality amenities.
Leading to the spacious shower room, with rain shower and massage nozzles.
The terrace has the private, large open-air bath, with also a rocking chair and footrest to relax.
Looking out from the terrace, behind the trees is the beautiful Lake Shikotsu.
After introducing the room, the staff brings us the welcome snack, a Western style dessert with homemade ice-cream, some fresh fruit, and a macaron. A nice variation from the Japanese snacks served usually.
Before dinner I go to the Public Bath. It is large with different facilities, including Standing Bath, Jacuzzi Bath, Sitting/Laydown Bath, Cold Water Bath, Outdoor Bath and Sauna Room. The hot spring water type is Carbonated, renown for its beautifying benefits.
Originally the dinner is served inside our room, but to avoid the smell and ensuring the food can be enjoyed at the right temperature, we have requested to have dinner inside the restaurant instead. At the appointed time we come to the Japanese restaurant 天の謌, located in another building on the other side of the Welcome Lounge.
The staff arranges us to sit side by side at a table facing the window, so we can enjoy the night view throughout the meal. Our menu is the special kaiseki set 天の謌会席, which includes complimentary beverages.
The appetizer 前菜 is 秋の味いろいろ 七種盛り合せ,
featuring seven Autumn delicacies.
The soup 椀物 is 清まし仕立 帆立つみれ 白舞茸 木の芽, a delicious clear soup with scallop fish ball, white maitake mushroom, and young Japanese pepper buds.
The sashimi 造里 is 本日のお造り盛り合せ オホーツク海自然塩で. The assorted sashimi includes sea urchin, Botan shrimp, flounder, tuna, and scallop, with soy sauce and natural salt from Okhotsk Sea for condiments.
The grilled dish 焼物 is かみふらの和牛 サーロインロースト すりおろし林檎ソース, featuring roasted wagyu sirloin from 上富良野, with grated apple sauce.
The light dish 中皿 is きんきと大根の焼き浸し 針茗荷 系鰹, with the grilled kinki on top of braised radish in dashi broth, with shredded Japanese ginger and bonito flakes.
The main dish 強肴 is たらば蟹雲丹焼き キタアカリと 十勝マッシュルームブルーテ, with the meaty grilled king crab leg delicious, supplemented with the umami of sea urchin, with potato and Velouté sauce.
Wrapping up the meal 食事 is 愛別産舞茸の炊き込みご飯 止椀 香の物. The savoury Japanese mixed rice with the maitake mushroom from Aibetsu is so good I have a couple of them.
Together with miso soup and pickles, provides a warm and filling satisfaction.
Dessert 果子 is カシス ドウ マロン ミルクジュ ラート添, presented
in a more modern Western setting, with cassis gelato, vanilla ice-cream, and boiled
chestnut on custard sauce.
Apart from the Japanese restaurant 天の謌, the ryokan has another restaurant Amam serving buffet, emphasizing healthy food prepared in simple cooking of local and fresh ingredients.
After dinner we come to the Bar Ape to relax and enjoy a glass of cocktail. A good place to hang out and have some conversations, with the prices very reasonable too. This place also serves as a café during the daytime.
The bartender also offers us some complimentary snack to go with the drinks.
Waking up to a beautiful and sunny morning, we take a dip in the onsen before going for breakfast.
The breakfast is also outstanding, starting with early morning treat おめざ, with 栗沢町産 トマトジュース 牛乳.
The Delicacies 珍味 include いくら醤油漬け 明太なめ茸 海苔佃煮 納豆昆布.
The Boxed Dish 箱盛り includes 平目南蛮漬け.
And 桜姫鶏治部煮.
As well as 紅鮭塩焼き, 染めおろし, 酢橘, 出汁巻玉子.
The Small Pot 小鉢 is 茶碗蒸し.
The 口取 is たらこ 小松菜草浸し 鰊甘露煮. お漬物 has 白菜漬け, きゅうり漬け, 梅干し.
The Rice お米 comes from おかわ町産 北海道米ふっくりんこ, with the option of 釜炊きごはん or お粥. The Soup 椀物 is 白菜と玉葱の味噌汁.
The Dessert 甘味 has パティシエラボの 本日のデザート.
Finally, it is コーヒー又は紅茶.
Taking a rest after breakfast to walk around the ryokan, we finally check out to drive to our next destination. The total expense is 139,366 yen, including the room, dinner and breakfast, onsen tax, and beverages. A very satisfying stay which I give a score of 8.0 out of 10.
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