Grandfather Francis Usseglio left Italy to come and work in
Chateauneuf-du-Pape as a wine worker, with first harvest in 1949. Later on, his
son Pierre took over and increased the size of the estate, turning from selling
much of its wine to negociants to now bottling majority by themselves.
The estate is now under the two sons of Pierre Usseglio,
Thierry and Jean-Pierre. In 1990s they acquired 8 hectares of old-vine
vineyards and introduced two luxury cuvees, Cuvee de mon Aieul and Reserve des
Deux Freres.
Average vine age is 65 years, covering a total area of 39
hectares, with 25 hectares in Chateauneuf-du-Pape. There are also plantings in Lirac,
Cotes-du-Rhone and Vin de France. Yield is low at 20-25 hectolitre per hectare.
The old vines average between 75 to 87 years old.
Diversity of soils constitutes richness of complexity, with
the estate practises manual harvesting and selective sorting, with triage conducted
in both vineyard and cellars. Depending on maturity, red grapes can be
destemmed or not.
It is then lightly crushed before maceration in concrete
vats for 25 to 40 days, with fermentation at 25 to 28 degrees Celsius. During
the process there are pumping over, shedding, and even stirring. The wines are
then aged in different containers over periods from 12 to 18 months.
White grapes are harvested in morning to keep freshness of
the fruit, pressed and put in stainless steel vats or barrels for fermentation
at 15 to 20 degrees Celsius, with the lees stirred once a week, without
malolactic fermentation.
Vinification is performed in neutral vats, about 50% were oak
barrels and 50% concrete vats, before transferring to small used barrels,
cement vats or larger wooden foudres, to produce wines of traditional style.
Cuvee Tradition is aged completely in wood foudres for 15-18
months, with average annual production at 60,000 bottles. Its optimal drinking
between 5 to 10 years.
Cuvee de mon Aieul has average annual production of 8,900
bottles, made with 100% Grenache from vines between 75 and 90 years old. The
grapes are not destemmed, and fermentation lasts between 30 to 40 days, aged in
concrete vats, unfined and unfiltered, with optimal drinking at 10-15 years.
Reserve des Deux Freres, which was called Cuvee de
Cinquantenaire in 1999, is aged in 50% neutral wood foudres and 50% in one-,
two-, and three-year old small barrels. The grapes are from the same old
vineyards as Cuvee de mon Aieul but from finest lots, with average annual production
of 3,400 bottles, made from 100% Grenache, with optimal drinking in 15-20 years.
Clos No. 18 are made from vines in a plot at the heart of
Chateauneuf-du-Pape, using different, manually harvested varieties of red,
white, and grey grapes to co-ferment in traditional way. 100% destemmed, the fermentation
lasts 20-30 days and aged in amphorae over 12 months.
Not For You! Is a special cuvee with 100% Grenache of 95
years old, with only 300 bottles made per year, spending 36 months in barrel.
A special Coffret Collection has 6 bottles of each variety
to highlight the diversity of the terroirs, including Grenache, Syrah,
Mouvedre, Cinsault, Clairette and the final blend.
Wines tasted:
.heic)
Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc 2014
Grape: 70% Clairette, 25% Grenache Blanc, 5% Bourboulenc
ABV: 13.5% Price:
HK$420 Wineshark Score: 92
Appearance
Bright and clear, the wine is of medium gold colour, with
wide watery rims and legs.
Nose
Clean, with medium (+) intensity aromas of citrus fruit of
lemon, green fruit of pear, tropical fruit of melon, mineral notes of beeswax,
herbaceous notes of straw, kernel notes of roasted nuts, maturity notes of
honey. The wine is developing.
Palate
Dry with medium acidity, the wine has medium alcohol, medium
(+) body, with medium (+) intensity flavours of citrus fruit of lemon, green
fruit of pear, stone fruit of peach, mineral notes of lanolin, maturity notes
of honey. The wine has a medium (+) finish.
Conclusion
Very good quality CDP Blanc with an intense nose showing
good complexity, with plenty of pear and beeswax notes on top of roasted nuts
and straw, supplementing with hints of honey. On the palate it has good body,
well-structured and balanced, having also good concentration in flavours.
Finishing with a fairly long length, it is ready to drink now and can maintain
for another 2-3 years.
.heic)
Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2019
Grape: Blend of CDP
ABV: 15.5% Price:
HK$490 Wineshark Score: 92
Appearance
Bright and clear, the wine is of deep ruby colour, with
fading rims and legs.
Nose
Clean, with medium (+) intensity aromas of black fruit of
black cherries and blackcurrant, red fruit of plum, pungent spice of black
pepper, sweet spice of thyme, kernel notes of toasted walnut, mineral notes of
lead, maturity notes of savoury. The wine is developing.
Palate
Dry with medium acidity, the wine has medium tannin of ripe
and smooth texture, high alcohol, full body, with medium (+) intensity flavours
of black fruit of blackberry and bilberry, red fruit of ripe cherries, sweet
spice of nutmeg, oak notes of toast. The wine has a medium finish.
Conclusion
Very good quality Rhone CDP with fantastic nose showing good
intensity of complex aromas, despite its relatively young age the wine has
already shown lots of sophistication. On the palate it has good structure,
robust and powerful, but not heady on alcohol. The flavours are concentrated as
well, with a reasonable length on the finish. It is ready to drink now but can
benefit from further ageing of another 3-5 years.
.heic)
Cuvee de mon Aieul 2009
Grape: 100% Grenache
ABV: 15% Price:
HK$585 Wineshark Score:
93
Appearance
Bright and clear, the wine is of medium ruby colour, with
fading garnet and legs.
Nose
Clean, with medium (+) intensity aromas of black fruit of
blackberry, red fruit of ripe cherries and plum, pungent spice of liquorice,
sweet spice of garrigue, oak notes of pine, mineral notes of earth, maturity
notes of tobacco and savoury. The wine is developing.
Palate
Dry with medium acidity, the wine has medium (+) tannin of
ripe and smooth texture, high alcohol, full body, with medium (+) intensity
flavours of black fruit of blackberry, red fruit of plum, oak notes of toast,
dairy notes of cream, kernel notes of almond, maturity notes of tobacco. The
wine has a medium (+) finish.
Conclusion
Very good quality Rhone CDP with an intense nose showing
great complexity, with plenty of black and red fruit on top of the spices,
earthy and tobacco characters. On the palate the wine is robust, powerful, and
well-structured, with a higher level of tannin than I would expect from a
varietal Grenache, with good concentration in flavours and a long finish. It is
ready to drink now and can further develop for another 2-3 years.
.heic)
Reserve des 2 Freres 2009
Grape: 100% Grenache
ABV: 15% Price:
HK$840 Wineshark Score:
94
Appearance
Bright and clear, the wine is of light ruby colour, with
fading garnet and legs.
Nose
Clean, with medium (+) intensity aromas of black fruit of
blackberry, dried fruit of prune, red fruit of ripe cherries and raspberry,
pungent spice of liquorice, kernel notes of chocolate, oak notes of cedar and
vanilla. The wine is developing.
Palate
Dry with medium acidity, the wine has medium (+) tannin of
ripe and smooth texture, high alcohol, full body, with pronounced intensity
flavours of black fruit of blackberry, red fruit of strawberry, oak notes of
vanilla and cedar, pungent spice of black pepper. The wine has a medium (+)
finish.
Conclusion
Very good quality Rhone CDP with an intense nose showing
wonderful complexity, with plenty of black and red fruit, spicy and oaky, with
also nice chocolate and vanilla aromas even though it has not yet fully
developed its potential. On the palate it is powerful but showing up well-balanced,
with smooth tannin and phenomenal concentration of flavours. Finishing with a
very long length, it is ready to drink but can further develop for another 4-6
years.
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