It has been more than six years since my last visit, and this restaurant has continued to maintain its Michelin 3-star status, now for nine consecutive years, so it is with expectation we return tonight to explore what new experience it has installed for us.
The décor has not changed, with the counter seats surrounding the open kitchen, with the colourful bell peppers and other vegetables decorating the stainless-steel frames, with also the black and red tone creating a warm and intimate atmosphere.
We both order the 9-course Signature Menu ($2,980) and I also opt for wine pairing ($1,450). To start, the staff brings us the Breadbasket, with an assortment of different bread made in-house. Bringing back good memories, we need to remind ourselves not to eat too many before the course begins.
The Amuse Bouche is Waffle, with the fillings comprising some Langoustine from New Zealand and Hokkaido Sea Urchin, mixed with Bechamel Sauce, before baking them. The crunchy texture of the waffle, with the creamy and tasty fillings, is an amazing starter and set us up with high anticipation on the courses to come.
The first course is Sologne Imperial Caviar. Presented beautifully in an egg-shaped container, the abundance of caviar forms the bottom, with the Lobster Jelly forming the middle layer, and the Cauliflower Cream being the top part. While a bit salty on its own, the caviar and lobster jelly have great umami flavours, becoming balance with the touch of the cream. The wine paired is Ruinart Blanc de Blancs.
The second course is Rock Lobster. Another great presentation, the Australian lobster meat has been slow cooked to keep its crunchy texture, and then brushed with a thin layer of lobster broth jelly on top to enhance its flavours. With a slice of Black Truffle to enrich the fragrance, the most amazing part for me is in fact the Macedonia Salad underneath, made with finely chopped pieces of Carrot, Peas, Tobiko, with hints of Cayenne Pepper to give a light spicy note to the poppy texture. The sauce on the bottom is a mix of black and white, made from Balsamic Vinegar and Mayonnaise. The wine paired is 2017 Arnaud Lambert Clos David Saumar Breze.
The third course is Baby Artichokes, the most tender and prized portion of the vegetable, which has been deep-fried in tempura style with a thin layer of batter. A Puree made with Artichokes and Chickpea offers a creamy and flavourful complement, and together with the Curcuma Emulsion with its unique earthy flavour and Piquillo Pepper extract of its sweet note, is delicious and not in any way heavy or oily. The wine paired is 2014 Markus Molitor Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese.
The fourth course is Raviolis. The raviolis, for me, are a touch undercooked, with the texture of the dough still a bit too hard. The fillings are however very tasty, with the runny cheese providing a gratifying experience on the bite. The Comte Foam, with the finely chopped Black Truffle and shaved cheese, is highly complementary on the palate. The wine paired is an interesting 1999 Chateau Musar Blanc.
The fifth course is Pan-Seared Sea Scallop. The large Hokkaido scallop has been beautifully pan-seared and caramelized, and the chef has added some spring onion, grated ginger, and leek as condiment on top. On the side there is some shiso flowers to add colour and fragrance, together with Sologne Caviar and celeriac. The sauce is a special Kumquat Reduction, with the citrus flavours appealing, also having good acidity to give vibrancy to the dish. The wine paired is 2020 Marco Capra Bricco Dalle Merende Moscato d’Asti.
The sixth course is Roasted Maine Lobster, serving with both the tail and claw. On top of the meat is a crisp made with the lobster brown meat, on top of some Baby Spinach together with Wasabi foam. The chef has taken a creative twist and breaking down the Bearnaise Sauce into its three components of Egg Yolk sauce, Tarragon, and Shallot to go with the lobster. Very tasty. The wine paired is 2007 Domaine Bouchard Corton Charlemagne.
The seventh course is Free-Range Quail and Foie Gras. My favourite dish in the evening, the quail breast is cooked to pink and seasoned perfectly, tender, and juicy, with the foie gras lightly seared on top, giving a soft silky bite. Together with Wild Girolles Mushrooms and Parsley, the earthy note of the mushroom provides the wonderful marriage in flavours, with the jus impeccable in taste. On the side the chef has prepared some silky creamy Mashed Potato, as well as a cup of Consommé with intense flavours. I am amazed how the consommé can remove the heaviness of the course. The wine paired is 2011 Louis Jadot Vosne-Romanee Les Beaux Monts.
The eighth course is Smooth Passionfruit Cream with Rum Granita and Coconut Mousse. Served in a cup and on first impression reminds me of an iced coffee, this dessert has multi-dimension of flavours, with the bottom layer of pineapple and passionfruit cream slightly sour to contrast with the bitter rum granita providing refreshing, palate cleansing effect. The coconut mousse is soft and linked up all the elements of the different flavours nicely, and per the suggestion of the chef, each scoop should pick up all the three layers to enjoy in one go.
The ninth course is Fresh Raspberries. The presentation is beautiful, with Lychee Chocolate Cream on the bottom layer, follows by a Raspberry Jelly in the middle, and on top are the Raspberry Sorbet with some Fresh Raspberries. The dessert has a great balance of sweet and sourness, and while the raspberry is featured in multiple formats, we do not feel boring. The wine paired is 2008 Chateau Suduiraut.
Included in the menu is Coffee or Tea, and I pick a Double-Espresso, with Home-Made Caramel to go with, while my wife opts for Peppermint Tea. The staff also very thoughtfully ask whether we want to pack the breads home, which we happily say yes.
The Petits Fours include Madeleine, Earl-Grey Flavoured Macaron, and Dark Chocolate. All these small pieces are tasty and go extremely well with the coffee, finishing our wonderful, satisfying meal on a high note.
The service is nice, with the sommelier and staff helpful in
explaining all the courses, but perhaps they can go a bit deeper into the
details like how the chef prepares the dish and the origins of ingredients. The bill
is $8,270 and while it is not cheap, I can appreciate why the restaurant has
been able to retain its 3-star status all these years, and I look forward to
returning, hopefully not having to wait for another six years.
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