2018年4月13日 星期五

Wineshark Wine Study - Auxey-Duresses


This village has a vineyard area of 419 acres (or 170 hectares), with total production of 57,522 cases, which 66% is red and 34% is white. There is no grand cru but 9 premiers crus, and the white wines are often described as junior Meursault. It is also the home of famous Domaine Leroy.

It is located on the west of Monthelie and off the front line of the Bourgogne’s famous villages, so it is often overlooked. But the main road has one of the most beautiful panoramas of east-facing vineyards in all Bourgogne.

Auxey became prominent after the AOC system in 1930s. Prior to that the wines were sold as Volnay, Pommard or Meursault. In 1928 the prominent premier cru Les Duresses was added to the name of
the village.

The village is of Gallo-Roman origin and called ‘Aulaciacum’, with the Cistercians arriving in the 11st century. It is on the west side of Cote de Beaune and in the cooler valley position so ripening is not as easy and the whites tend to be crisper and reds sharper.

There are three diverse vineyard areas, with most white grapes are grown on Mont Melian backing into the village of Meursault and directly southeast of Auxey village, mostly facing north and cooler, thus better for Chardonnay. The red-colored soil is stony with limestone debris and a thin subsoil.

The most prominent vineyard is Montagne du Bourbon and Montagne du Tillet on the north of the village, where the premiers crus are located on the south and southeast facing slopes. Clos du Val is recognized as the top of those, and is a monopole belonging to the Prunier family.

The next in fame would be climat Du Val or Le Val, as well as Les Duresses bothering Monthelie. The other area is about one kilometre to the west of the village above the hameau of Melin, mostly of east-facing slopes producing both red and white classified at village-level.


The white wines are often compared to a lighter version of Meursault and more consistent than the red, with hazelnut and lime blossom of pleasant roundness, with russet apples and fresh almonds, discreet acidity and quite long finish.

The reds tend to be muscular and robust with aromas of small red fruits, with quite diverse styles but tend towards rustic, with supple tannin and developing animal notes with age.

The notable producers include Domaine Michel Prunier et Fils, Domaine J-P & Christophe Diconne, Domaine Gilles & Jean Lafouge, as well as Maison Leroy.

My latest tasting notes for the Pierre Boisson Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru En Reugne 2013:

Bright and clear, it has light lemon color, with wide watery rims and legs. The nose is clean, with medium intensity developing aromas of lemon, lime blossom, stony, green apple, almond, pineapple, and hints of honey. The palate is dry with high acidity, medium alcohol, medium (-) body and medium (+) intensity flavors of lemon, blossom, tart apple, hazelnut and cream. The finish is medium (+).

My latest tasting notes for the Pierre Boisson Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru 2013:

Bright and clear, it has light ruby color, with fading rims and legs. The nose is clean, with medium intensity developing aromas of cherry, redcurrant, strawberry and raspberry, licorice, wet leaves and forest floor. The palate is dry with medium acidity, medium tannin of silky texture, medium alcohol, medium (-) body and medium intensity flavors of sour cherry and raspberry, hazelnut, violet and cloves. The wine is medium (-).

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