2016年2月12日 星期五

Domaine Jean Grivot

History

The family originated from Jura, and at the end of 18th century Joseph Grivot sold his vineyards in the Hautes Cotes to settle in Vosne-Romanee. His son Gaston developed the domaine, and in 1919 bought a large parcel in Clos de Vougeot.

Gaston was also one of the first graduates from Dijon University on oenology, followed by his son Jean a few years later. Jean acquired a parcel in Richebourg in 1984 and was succeeded by his son Etienne in 1987.

Etienne studied viti- and viniculture in Beaune, and also got work experience in California and other parts of France.

Vineyards

The average vine age is 40 years, with planting-out, only replacing vine stock when one died. Planting density is high at 11,000 vines per hectare, contributing to low yields and the vine roots having to dig deep into the sub-soils for nutrients and water. A very low amount of organic fertilizer is used, without any weed-killer.

The soils are ploughed and sustainable organic farming practices are conducted. Green harvesting is done every year with a slight amount of leaf-removal depending on the aspect of the plot. The harvest date is determined by regular visit and check on the vineyards, sampling  and analysis of grapes.

Winemaking

The grapes are sorted in the vat house and only perfectly ripe and healthy grapes are kept, with 95% destalking. The harvest is transferred to the vats using small trolleys to maintain fruit integrity. Juice is cooled to undergo a pre-fermentation maceration between 4-6 days.

Fermentation is with indigenous yeast and daily re-circulation is carried out with check on temperature and density, with the process lasting 17 days. Each year the winemaking process is adapted to the profile of the vintage.

The wine is matured in French oak for 18 months, a third of which are new in general but also depends on vintage, with around 25% for villages appellation, 30-60% for premier crus and 40-70% for grand crus. During maturing the wine is racked twice on average, and then blended in the vats before bottling without fining or filtration according to moon’s movement and atmospheric pressure, in the estate.

I have recently tasted the 2003 Nuits-St-Georges 1er Cru Ronciere and below is my tasting note:

Appearance
Bright and clear, it has light ruby color, with wide garnet rims and legs.

Nose
Clean, with medium intensity aromas of red fruit of raspberry and cherry, black fruit of plum, mineral notes of earth, oak notes of smoke, kernel notes of dark chocolate, maturity notes of mushroom. The wine is developing.

Palate
Dry with medium (+) acidity, the wine has medium tannin of ripe and silky in texture, medium alcohol and medium (-) body, demonstrating medium intensity of flavors including red fruit of raspberry and cherry, oak notes of smoke, mineral notes of earth, herbal notes of tobacco leaf. The wine has a medium (+) length.

Conclusion

Good quality Nuits-St-Georges with a decent intensity on the nose showing nice complexity, the wine is elegant, balanced with good structure, having quite robust tannin despite its age, and the palate has reasonable concentration and a fairly long finish. Ready to drink now, it can benefit from further ageing of another 3-5 years.

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