In the
early part of the century the estate appeared to be under the de Fieuzal
family, the obvious source of its modern name, with the family also owning
Chateau Haut-Gardere. The last descendant of the family, Lovely Fieuzal, died
in 1851 and the estates were sold to the Griffon family.
One of
the Griffon brothers was Consul to Pope Leon XIII in Bordeaux, and in 1892 the
estate was sold to Abel Ricard, who also owned Domaine de Chevalier and Chateau
Malartic-Lagraviere. The vineyards went into decline because of phylloxera,
oidium, world war and depression, and after Abel’s death during WWII, the
estate was passed to his daughter Odette and her husband Eric Bocke.
They
rebuilt the chateau and replanted the vineyards, predominantly with red
varieties with also with a few rows of white. In the 1959 Graves classification
the red was ranked a classed growth, but not the white because of its minuscule
quantity to be sent for assessment.
After
the death of Odette, and three years later Eric, the estate was sold to a
pharmacist named Georges Negrevergne, who sold it later to Banques Populaires,
with Georges’ son-in-law Gerard Gribelin remained at the helm. He acquired the
Haut-Gardere vineyards and incorporated into the Fieuzal estate, increasing the
size to 30 hectares.
The
cellar was later refurbished, installing 11 stainless steel vats. In 2001 it
changed hands again, to the new Irish owner Lochlann Quinn, who contributed
greatly to the development of the estate and improving the quality of the wine.
His technical director Stephen Carrier, coming from Chateau Lynch-Bages, revitalized
also the cellar and vineyards.
The
estate lies on the southern periphery of the Pessac-Leognan appellation, to the
west is the Chevalier estate, to the east the town of Martillac, and to the
south the forests. The vineyard today covers around 75 hectares, of which 65
hectares are dedicated to red, with the remaining to white.
Cabernet
Sauvignon dominates for the red, accounting for 50%, with Merlot 40%, Cabernet
Franc 6% and Petit Verdot 4%. The whites has 70% Sauvignon Blanc combining with
30% Semillon. The soil has a Quaternary gravelly-sandy character, with the
vines averaging 30 years.
The
vines are trained in Double Guyot system, at a density of 8300 vines per ha. The
fruit is harvested and sorted by hand, before temperature-controlled
fermentation. There
are a total of 63 fermentation vats, varying in sizes and materials, with ten
wooden, 16 cement and the remaining stainless steel, allowing a plot-by-plot
vinification.
After
fermentation and maceration it was transported by gravity to the barrel cellar,
excavated under the chai. The red wines will see about 12-16 months with 60%
new barrel. The white is fermented in oak barriques, but spending less time in
oak, around 8-12 months, with only 40% new wood.
Regular
batonnage for the white, remaining on lees throughout the elevage, the wines
are fined using egg white before bottling. Grand vin is Chateau de Fieuzal with
a second wine L’Abeille de Fieuzal, with 45% of the harvest going to the first
wine. There are about 9500 cases of red
and 1500 cases of white produced per year.
I have
recently tasted the 2001 and 2003 vintage of the red, as well as the 2008
vintage of the white:
Appearance
Clear, deep intensity ruby color, the rims
are turning to garnet, with legs.
Nose
Clean,
with medium (+) intensity aromas of black fruit such as blackberry, dried fruit
of prune, pungent spice of liquorice, maturity notes of cigar box, mineral
notes of earth, some herbaceous notes of blackcurrant leaf. The wine is
developing.
Palate
Dry, the
wine has medium acidity and medium level tannin, ripe and silky in texture. It
has medium level alcohol, medium (-) body, and medium intensity flavors of
black fruit such as blackberry and dark plum, dried fruit of prune, oak notes
of cedar, maturity notes of cigarette and savory. The finish is of medium
length.
Conclusion
Good quality
Pessac-Leognan with good concentration on the nose, showing good complexity but
there are hints of herbaceous notes which probably reflected the less ripe
vintage of 2001. On the palate it is balanced, with reasonable intensity but the
body is a bit on the light side with a sense of ‘dilute’. The finish is of fair
length, this wine is ready to drink now and not suitable for further ageing,
can keep for 2-3 years.
Appearance
Bright and clear, this wine is of deep ruby
color, with legs.
Nose
Clean,
the nose shows medium (+) intensity aromas of ripe black fruit such as
blackcurrant, blackberry and bilberry, dried fruit of fig, pungent spice of liquorice,
animal notes of leather, oak notes of cedar and vanilla, maturity notes of savory.
The wine is developing.
Palate
Dry with
medium acidity, medium (+) tannin of ripe but a bit dusty in texture, the
wine has medium alcohol and a medium (+) body, showing medium (+) intensity on
flavors, including black fruit of blackberry and bilberry, oak notes of vanilla
and cedar, some vegetal notes of black tea, MLF notes of cream. The wine has a
medium (+) finish.
Conclusion
Good
quality Pessac-Leognan with a good strong nose of high complexity, the palate
is balanced, with a robust structure. The palate demonstrates plenty of ripe
black fruit but also having other interesting flavors, with good concentration
and finish. The only criticism I got is the tannin texture is a bit dusty, but
overall still highly enjoyable and good value for money. Ready to drink now
though can benefit from further ageing of another 3-5 years.
Appearance
Bright and clear, the wine has deep
intensity lemon color, with legs.
Nose
Clean,
it has medium (+) intensity aromas of green fruit such as quince, tropical
fruit of pineapple, stone fruit of peach, floral notes of elderflower, oak
notes of vanilla, mineral notes of waxy, maturity notes of hay. The wine is
developing.
Palate
Dry, it
has medium (+) acidity and medium level alcohol. Medium in body, with medium (+)
intensity flavors of dairy notes of cream, green fruit such as pear and
grapefruit, oak notes of toast, stone fruit of peach, floral notes of honeysuckle.
The wine has a medium (+) finish.
Conclusion
Very
good quality Pessac-Leognan white wine with good concentration on the nose and
palate, showing plenty of complexity, it has a good acidity to provide a
refreshing yet well-structured body, offering good range of flavors and a
fairly long finish. The only criticism is the alcohol is a bit hot on the
swallow. Ready to drink now, the wine can benefit from further ageing of
another 4-6 years.
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