Wineshark Cooking Class - Braised Queensland Grouper Tail 紅炆龍躉尾

Ingredients (for 4):

• Grouper Tail - 750g
• Pork meat - 75g
• Shiitake mushroom - 5
• Egg - 1
• Shallot - 4
• Garlic - 4 cloves
• Ginger - 20g
• Spring onion - 3 sprigs
• Salt - 1 tsp
• White pepper powder - 1/4 tsp
• Tapioca starch - 1 tbsp
• Chinese yellow wine - 1 tbsp
• Chicken stock - 500ml
• Soy sauce - 1 tsp
• Sugar - 1 tsp
• Oyster sauce - 2 tbsp
• Sesame oil - 1/2 tsp
• Tapioca starch - 1.5 tbsp
• Oil -  1 litre

Procedures:

1. Clean the grouper tail and then cut in the middle on both sides to make it easier to cook. Season with salt and white pepper powder.

2. Cut the pork into shreds.

3. Cut the spring onion white into sections. Cut the ginger into slices. Cut the shallot into quarters. Smash the garlic.

4. Soak the shiitake mushroom until softened. Remove stem and cut into shreds.

5. Brush the grouper tail with the whisked egg, and then dust a layer of Tapioca starch on top.

6. Heat the wok with oil to medium temperature, then add in the grouper tail to deep-fry.

7. Flip the grouper tail over to continue deep-frying until golden brown.

8. Take the grouper tail out. 

9. Mix oyster sauce, soy sauce, sugar and chicken stock together.

10. Heat the wok with 2 tbsp of oil, then add in the ginger, garlic and shallot to stir-fry briefly.

11. Add in shiitake mushroom and pork to stir-fry, and sprinkle with Chinese yellow wine.

12. Add the sauce into and continue to cook until boiling.

13. Add the grouper tail back in, and cook for 5 minutes on each side. 

14. Take the grouper tail out and put on the serving plate.

15. Add the spring onion whites in, and then turn up the heat to reduce the sauce. Add sesame oil to enhance the aromas and finally add the thickening to reduce the sauce.

16. Pour the sauce on top of the fish tail to serve.

Wineshark HK Restaurant Review - Zhejiang Heen 浙江軒

When this restaurant first started many years ago, it is exclusive for members. Riding on friends I was able to visit a few times to experience its authentic and delicious Zhejiang cuisine. Nowadays it is open to public, but you will probably need to be a member in order to book a private room. With the hairy crab in season, today we come to Wanchai Lockhart Road to see whether they keep up to the high standards after all these years.

The décor and setting have not changed much, neat and tidy, offering traditional and familiar ambience of circular tables with white tablecloth, and the use of celebratory colours like red and gold in the design. On a wall there is a backdrop which indicates this year is the Thirteen Anniversary of the restaurant. Time really flies as it did not feel so long ago when I first came here.

We start with some appetizers, including Smoked Egg 煙燻蛋 ($26 each). The egg has a runny yolk, with the smoky flavours infused well into the egg white, very delicious and not overly salty. Very good.

The second appetizer is Jelly Fish with Spring Onion 蔥油海蜇頭 ($190). The jellyfish has a crunchy texture, having cleaned and soaked thoroughly so there is no weird taste, but full of the nice flavours of the marinade. The drizzle of the spring onion oil further adds to the fragrance, with the cucumber pieces underneath helps to freshen and balance the palate. Very good also.

Next comes Fried River Shrimps 清炒河蝦仁 ($300). The river shrimps are quite big in size, cooked perfectly to maintain its sweet taste while keeping the meat tender and smooth. Adding a bit of vinegar helps to bring forward the umami of the shrimps. Pure joy and wonder. Highly recommend.

Obviously, we cannot miss the seasonal hairy crab dishes and decide to pick Crab Meat with Tofu 蟹粉豆腐 ($650). The orange paste of mixed crab meat and roes are simply unstoppable, with great flavours. The tofu is soft and delicate, but its milder taste actually helps to highlight the crab meat even further. We share a bowl of rice and in no time, I finish everything. Must try.

A dish that we did not eat often in last few years is Sauteed Eels with Chives 韭黃鱔糊 ($250). The eel, chives, and beansprouts are all cut to almost equal length, with the thick sauce delicious in taste. I like how the dish does not feel excessively oily, again testimony to the skills of the chef in handling the cooking temperature and time to perfection. Very good.

We also have Xiao Long Bao 灌湯小籠包 ($64) for dim sum, with each of the dumpling filled with delicious soup, and the thin dough also scoring high marks. The minced pork is not too fatty and seasoned well. Very good.

For dessert we have Assorted Dumplings with Wine and Sweet Osmanthus 桂花酒釀雙丸 ($50), which includes both the small dumplings without fillings and the larger ones with black sesame. The soup is fragrant, and slightly sweetened making it elegant and healthy. The dumplings have chewy dough with a nice bite. Another good one.

Overall, the restaurant stays true to my fond memories, continue to keep up to its high-quality standards. Service is nice with the friendly staff who do not try to oversell. The bill on the night is $1,666 without any service charge. Very reasonable. If you want to enjoy good Zhejiang cuisine this is where I would highly recommend.

Wineshark HK Restaurant Review - Felix

This contemporary French restaurant is located on the rooftop of The Peninsula Hong Kong, commanding a grandeur view of the Kowloon skylines and Victoria Harbour on the two sides of the full-length windows. My second visit, but this time it is the special Bruno Rocca wine dinner, with the menu curated by Aurelie Altemaire.

I was very surprised when the staff at the entrance is able to call out my name. Apparently, they have done some check with the clients on the night beforehand. Seated on the window side, the décor has the familiar sleek, modern chic vibe, with high ceiling, dim lighting, and the large bar at the back drawing the visitors into a surreal setting.

Starting with the aperitif, it is the sparkling Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Giustino B. Extra Dry 2022 from Ruggeri. The wine is straw yellow in colour, with a persistent mousse and good complexity in aromas, having hints of apple, peach, yellow flowers, and grapefruit. This wine is perfect for starters, and get ourselves ready and anticipating for the food to come.

The first course ‘To Start…’ features some Italian Gambero Rosse, with the red prawn paired with some Smoked Mozzarella cheese foam, seasoned with a bit of paprika to give a hint of mild spiciness, with some caviar on top, not only to provide additional savoury taste to the dish but increase the premium. A very good starter.  

A Fougasse is served as well, which is a type of bread from Provence, made to an interesting wheat head shape. To go with the bread the chef has prepared a Muhammara, a spicy dip made from walnut, red bell peppers, pomegranate molasses and breadcrumbs, garnished with some parsley. The bread is very good and we have finished it before the second course is served.   

The second wine paired is Bruno Rocco Barbera d’Alba 2021. The wine has ripe cherries as well as plenty of black fruit including plum and blackberry, with also toasted almond and some spicy notes of black pepper. The rounded palate and integrated tannin make it an easy-drinking wine that can be enjoyed at relatively young age.

The second course is French Foie Gras & Duck. Presented in a neat way, the Marble Terrine is sandwiched with a layer of Mulled Wine Jelly, with Red Berries Chutney on the side. The rich and creamy foie gras has duck meat added to form a good mix of texture, seasoned perfectly. The mulled wine jelly helps to freshen the palate, while the chutney provides the necessary acidity to balance. A great dish on its own and goes well with the wine too.

The third wine paired is Bruno Rocco Barbaresco 2020. Apart from the familiar cherries and black fruit, this wine has a more floral note of violet compared with the earlier Barbera d’Alba, with a more complex palate, less green peppercorn than the last one but showing more kernel characters of cocoa. More polished and all-rounded.

The third course is Spanish Meagre. The fish is grilled on the hot, round metal plate, skillfully done with a crisp skin while the flesh remains moist and tender. On the side is Piperade, a stew of peppers, onions, and tomatoes. Finishing with a Sobrassada Sauce, which is made from a type of Spanish sausage, with a rich paprika taste. The slight smoky and spiciness adds an extra dimension of flavours to the fish. Very good.

The fourth wine paired is Bruno Rocco Barbaresco Riserva Curra 2013. Very limited with only 3980 bottles produced, it has the same floral notes, but this one has a more subtle aroma, reminiscent more to the dried flowers, the wine has good plum and raspberry notes, with also some mushroom and tobacco characters which goes well with the white truffle in the next course.

The fourth course features Italian White Truffle, with Chef Altemaire coming to our table to shave the prized seasonal delicacy onto the Celery Root and Artichoke Ragout. The white truffle has just flown in from Alba on the morning, highly fragrant. On the bottom is a puree of black truffle, which enhances the already rich truffle flavours, finishing with some Aged Parmesan infusion and Smoked Pancetta. Simple but able to highlight the ingredients to the full extent. Very good.

Next comes the fifth and sixth wine paired, Bruno Rocco Barbaresco Rabaja 2020 as well as Bruno Rocca Barbaresco Maria Adelaide 2019. The former has more spicy characters, exhibiting a wide range of sweet spices plus liquorice, together with some oaky notes on top of ripe cherry. The latter is denser, more powerful but still well-balanced, showing a bit of minty notes in addition to the cherry and plum. Both delicious Barbaresco.

The fifth course is Rhug Estate Venison Saddle. The beautiful venison fillet comes from Wales and is Grilled in Mild Spices to a perfect medium rare, very tender and juicy, superbly tasty without any gamey or weird flavours. The meat is in wonderful harmony with the Black Currant Gravy which gives a bit of sweetness to increase the complexity. On the side is Confit Cabbage. While it might look like a simple dish, it is so delicious and definitely my favourite in the evening.

For the sixth and last course, it is Espelette Pepper & Aragani Chocolate. The dark chocolate cake is made from Venezuela cocoa, with rich flavours and some interestingly sweet spice notes, matching well with the sauce which has added with the famous French chilies. There is also a Vanilla Ice Cream on top to give the sweetness to balance with the chocolate, with a chocolate crisp offering a difference in texture. A rewarding finale of the menu.

The Petits Fours include Steamed Meringue with Yuzu Custard and Homemade Chocolate. I like the meringue as it is not too sweet. A good complement to go with the coffee to finish the whole meal.

Overall, the food quality is very good, executed well by well-trained and enthusiastic staff, delivering impeccable service, with the staff also demonstrating great in-depth knowledge on the wines. The bill on the night is $5,694 which is very reasonable considering the wines served. A happy, satisfying, and enjoyable evening which prompts us to plan to return again soon. A good spot for a nice dinner with someone important.

Wineshark HK Restaurant Review - Osteria Marzia

It’s almost five years since my office has moved from Wanchai to Kwun Tong, and there are so many changes it is just like another life. One thing I missed is the different restaurants I get to visit during lunch. Back then I can walk to Wanchai and Causeway Bay, with plenty of options in a vibrant dining scene. Osteria Marzia was still fairly new then, and I had visited a few times with my colleagues for lunch, where I recalled the food was quite decent.

On this Tuesday evening, I finally return again to this Italian restaurant at The Fleming. In contrast to the bright streetlight outside looking out through the windows, its warm yellowish spherical lighting and wooden floor helps to create a relaxing and cozy ambience, with the high ceiling creating space and a sense of comfort.

The restaurant has been focusing on seafood, and it is still the theme today. To pair, I have ordered a bottle of Umani Ronchi Plenio Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Classico Riserva 2020 ($828). The wine has a nice creaminess, probably due to the 12-month ageing process with lees, with also rich lemony citrus and herbal notes, plus good minerality. I am happy with my choice as the wine goes well with all the food we picked.

The bread is some decent Scarbough Toast, but the highlight to me is definitely the serving of anchovies in addition to the traditional butter. A generous condiment, the salted fish has a rich taste and together with a bit of butter on the toast it is a wonderful treat. I cannot stop eating and finishes all the pieces quickly.

We decide to have a starter and a salad to begin. The first one is Tartare di Gamberi Rossi ($228). The Puglia red prawn has been minced, with a sweet and soft texture. Sandwiched in between there are some Sorrento lemon and almonds, to give some appetizing acidity. Finally, the chef has put some grated Sardinian bottarga on top, with the salted mullet roes giving a nice umami taste to the dish. A nice starter.

The salad is Panzanella ($178), which contains some fresh Roma heirloom tomato with a good balance of sweetness and acidity, together with pickled onion, mint, and croutons. Refreshing and healthy, I like how the small amount of mint has helped to give fragrance while not overpowering the more delicate flavours of the other ingredients, and the large crunchy croutons provided a contrast in texture. Another nice one.

Next, we have a pasta, picking Linguine alle Vongole ($198). The linguine has a fantastic bite, al dente as per our request. The Hokkaido Asari clams are fresh and umami in taste, with the sauce full of the seafood flavours. Scattered with some chopped parsley on top, I in particular like the chili added as it helps to stimulate the palate. Delicious.

For the main course, we have picked Ma Yau alla Griglia ($328). This local fish is famous for its flavours and the chef has grilled the fillet to a beautiful crispness on the skin, with the flesh remaining moist. The trick shared by the chef is to use a special type of paper to wrap the fish beforehand, totally extracting the moisture from the skin before grilling. It is just wonderful in taste, seasoned spot-on also. Underneath there are some roasted red and yellow bell peppers and Tropea onion that had been cooked with tomato sauce, a great complement in taste and acidity to the fish.

The other main course is Amadai ($288). While the taste cannot compare with Ma Yau, the chef has adopted the Japanese cooking technique to pour hot oil on the scales to make it stand, crispy and edible. The sauce is made from saffron broth, adding Sicilian Datterino tomato confit, Sicilian oregano, and parsley oil. Complex and delicious. It is difficult to compare the two, but I would probably vote for Ma Yau among the mains we have on the night.

For dessert, my wife has Freshly Churned Gelato ($118), with the vanilla gelato appropriate in sweetness, soft on texture, with a bit of strawberry sauce and some candied cherries on top. Simple but nice. My choice is Cannolo Siciliano ($58), with the famous pastry from Sicily essentially a tube-shaped deep-fried dough, filled with ricotta, chocolate chips, cinnamon, and some candied orange. Another nice dessert overall.

Service is good, with the staff friendly and taking the time to introduce the whole menu at the beginning. The chef also comes to our table to check out how we like the food and talk to us. The bill on the night is $2,662, reasonable in price as well. If you want seafood, and if you want Italian, this restaurant is a good one to consider.