Wineshark HK Restaurant Review - The Krug Room

Located in Mandarin Oriental, The Krug Room is the only remaining Krug Room in the world, operated in partnership with Champagne House Krug. It is well-hidden and we need to first approach the Mandarin Grill & Bar, before the manager shows us, going through The Chinnery and a door leading into the back of house, before coming to this ‘secret’ restaurant.  

The restaurant is an exclusive and private space, designed to resemble a luxurious train carriage with windows on one side looking out to the busy kitchen. In the middle of the room is a large communal table able to accommodate eight diners. On one end there are several wine cabinets displaying bottles of Krug, including the rare Clos d’Ambonnay and Clos du Mesnil, as well as some older vintages, which are also available for sale.

The tasting menu ($3,988), though looks expensive, includes a pairing of 4 glasses of Krug. Designed by Executive Chef Robin Zavou, the courses not only aim to present a good sensory complement with the champagnes, they are also made using seasonal ingredients with an emphasis on responsible sourcing, using local produces as much as possible.

While waiting for the other diners to arrive, we are served a glass of Krug Grande Cuvee 172eme Edition to start as aperitif. The champagne is refreshing and smooth, with six years of bottle fermentation, so the bubbles are elegant, consistent and fine, with a nice toasty and yeasty flavours on top of nice white flowers, almond and citrus fruit, along with some grassy notes. Very pleasant.

There are a couple of starters in the menu. The first one is Cone, with a creamy filling of homemade  Koji paste inside, some Hokkaido Uni in the middle, and topped with Shiso and edible flowers. The sea urchin has a nice sweetness and rich in umami. A nice appetizer.

The second starter is Garden. The chef uses Tofu and Miso to make a paste for dipping, crumbling some rye bread to scatter on top to resemble earth in the garden, with some very fresh Radish on top. The two types of radishes include the white Japanese mini-turnip, sweeter in taste while the American radish has a reddish skin and crunchier in texture. The leaves can also be eaten, with a slight bitter taste. Another wonderful appetizer.

The third course is Flower. Inside the Zucchini flower the chef has stuffed two different Ebi delicacies, including minced Spanish carabineros and lobster mousse, with a touch of Zest from yuzu to give freshness to balance the rich and intense taste.  On the side are three sauces, the black one is homemade scallop reduction which has intense umami flavours. The red-coloured sauce is made from roasting the red prawn heads, grinding them to extract the essences, before cooking with butter. The remaining is the light shoyu sauce which bring forward the umami of the prawn and lobster. Truly memorable.

The fourth course is Krug. The raw Australian spiny Lobster meat has been marinated in Krug for 3-4 minutes, very much like a ceviche, with the citrus notes coming from the champagne. The dish finishes with some Kohlrabi puree and homemade miso. On top are some jelly sheets made from soy, sake and mirin, plus Caviar and fresh coriander, fennel, shiso flowers and dill flowers. These aromatic herbs go well with the champagne, with ponzu as dressing. Amazing.

The second glass of champagne is Krug Vintage 2011. This has a comparatively more intense aromas and flavours, with more oaky and fruity notes, probably coming from the higher proportion of Pinot Noir in the blend, and the hot weather of the year. It is offered after a cellaring of 13 years, with a deep elegance and finesse, a bit like enjoying a really nice white wine.

The fifth course is Ocean. Using the best catch of the day, the chef features kinmedai and awabi from Japan. After steaming the splendid alfonsino, he added a bit of grated bottarga on top to add savoury and umami flavours. Under the fish there is the Abalone, which has been braised beautifully to great tenderness, paired with a sauce made from the liver of the abalone. The dish finishes with some Pickled Mooli and lemon juice to give a bit of citrus and acidity to balance. Wonderful.

The sixth course is Forest. There is a layer of white foam, under which are the Escargot which have good bites, together with some Nettle, offering a bit of fresh cucumber taste with a bit of acidity. To highlight the fall season the chef has shaved some Truffle on top, with the nice earthy aromas integrating everything well. Taking a scoop which includes all the components is a rewarding experience.

The third glass of champagne is Krug Rose 27eme Edition, with the base wines coming from vintages from 2015 all the way to 2005, with also 10% traditionally macerated Pinot Noir, spending around seven years in cellar before release. The wine has rose buds and a bit of savoury notes on top of redcurrant and grapefruit, with a feeling like drinking red wine. Perfect to pair with the main courses.

The seventh course is Farm I, with the chef making a folded cabbage Taco, and on the inside are some braised Pigeon meats, tender from the slow-cooked process, with nice smoky BBQ flavours. On top of the taco is the crispy kale, and there are four sauces to go with the pigeon, including hoisin, BBQ, mushroom ketchup, and black garlic. A fusion dish where we see a lot of the elements showcasing the Chinese dish pigeon cabbage wrap. Interesting and delicious.

The eighth course is Farm II. Featuring the A4 deep-fried wagyu beef from Kagoshima. It has a crispy surface, while still keeping the inside medium rare and tender. The beef is not too fatty, having a rich flavour, seasoned well with a bit of black pepper. Paired with some Smoke Trout Roes and Mexican Mole sauce, the chef also has a mini turnip on the side to balance with its delicate crunchy freshness. Very good as well.

The fourth and last champagne returns back to Krug Grande Cuvee 172eme Edition, in order to take advantage of the freshness, floral and citrusy taste to match with the desserts. To transition, the palate cleansing Vert is served, featuring Golden Kiwi and Shiso sorbet, with kiwi and lime caviar at the bottom. The foam on top is made using Aloe Vera with shiso. Very refreshing.

The tenth course is Autumn. Very beautifully presented like a flower, with the centrepiece being a Walnut ice-cream, and surrounded by thin wafer with a touch of Cinnamon. At the bottom there are Pear jus made from reduction of the juice, plus two types of pear preparation, one cooked and one infused with syrup. Great in taste and not too sweet.

The petit four features Cocoa. Creatively presented on a log of wood, there are several thin sheets of Chocolate of five different Flavours, including yuzu, matcha, raspberry, salted caramel, and sesame. The crunchy Textures are appealing and a good complement with the coffee, finishing the meal with a great sense of satisfaction.

Service is very good, with the staff friendly and attentive, and apparently, I also get the opportunity to connect with my friend who works in The Chinnery as well. The bill on the night is $8,882 and while this may look dauntingly expensive, consider the four glasses of Krug and the food itself it is actually reasonable. If you are a champagne lover, this secret restaurant is one you should not miss.

Wineshark HK Restaurant Review - Lau Sum Kee Noodles 劉森記麵家

This noodles eatery is located in Shum Shui Po with two outlets, one in Fuk Wing Street and the original shop at Kweilin Street. It has been a popular place for both locals and tourists. Now managed by the third generation, they still insist to prepare their own noodles by the traditional method of kneading the dough by sitting on a bamboo pole and jumping up and down.

Arriving to the Fuk Wing Street branch on a Sunday afternoon there is already a queue outside. But without waiting too long we can get our seats. Here everyone will share table, and I guess around one-third is tourists from mainland China, but I also hear there are some visitors from Singapore too.

We order the Dried Shrimp Roes Stirred Noodles with Beef Brisket and Tendon 蝦子牛腩牛筋撈麵 ($46). There are plenty of dried shrimp roes scattered on top of the noodles, with the beef brisket and tendon very tender and soft, with deep flavours. However, the highlight is definitely the noodles, with a good chewy and bouncy texture, but not tough on the bite. It is fantastic, and no wonder is their signature, and I applaud the owner continues to stand firm to make these noodles in the traditional way.

I also order Dumpling with Soup 招牌淨水餃 ($34). The dumplings are fairly big in size, freshly made daily as we see a staff busy doing that on the side. The dough is thin and soft, with the pork and shrimp fillings seasoned well and very delicious. Together with the tasty broth prepared, it is another must-order in my opinion.

With a couple of soft drinks, the total bill on the day is $150, very reasonably priced. While the décor or service is ordinary, this is in many ways a gem that we should continue to treasure and nourish in Hong Kong, especially the craft of the bamboo pole kneading.  

Wineshark HK Restaurant Review - Azito 味渡

From the four-hands dinner at Sushi Kumogaku in August, I get to know about this kappo restaurant located on 9/F of FOCO in Central. In order to experience the complete culinary talents of Chef Tomi, I come here on a Friday evening in early October, with the weather finally starting to get a bit cooler at night.

Stepping out the escalator the staff takes us into a nice dining area, featuring a circular stone counter constructed from black marble. In the centre is the chef’s table where customers can see the cutting and cooking in action. Chef Tomi comes out to greet us with his signature smile, and the clicking sound when he walks shows that he is wearing wooden scandals, and in a way signaling he is a person who treasures and values tradition.

There are two menus to choose from, and I have picked the one costing $2,800 per person. To pair with the food, I also have a bottle of 阿部勘 純米大吟醸 白鶴錦 ($1,080). This Miyagi sake is made from the special sake rice 白鶴錦, a brother varietal of 山田錦, with moderate aromas and flavours, the characters are a bit like white wine. A versatile sake.

Chef Tomi first heats up a wire mash on the stove, before placing a clay pot on it to heat up until it is boiling. The first course グツグツ means searing hot dish, featuring Suppon, a premium ingredient in Japan. The Soft-shelled Turtle Soup is prepared with some scallions and ginger, together with outer edge of the shell of the turtle, seasonal Chestnut, and the lightly grilled Cod Milt. The combination of the different texture, and the phenomenal taste is so good that I cannot stop scooping up the soup rapidly, without worrying the risk of burning my tongue, as every single drop is pure flavour and enjoyment.

The second course is 鱧焼き, with the chef cutting the Hamo meticulously to break the small bones, then prepares the Grilled Conger Pike over charcoal inside the kitchen. There is also some mashed Potato and Kikuna to go with the fish, with a sauce made with Kabosu, a type of Citrus fruit, to give a refreshing taste. Finally, the chef shaves some Truffle on top to add an earthy fragrance to the dish. Surprisingly the light and delicate taste of the fish does not get masked by the other ingredients and this is testimony to the success of the chef in balancing all the components.

The third course is Seasonal Sashimi Platter 旬の鮮魚, which are served through two dishes. The very fresh Saba has been paired with a bit of Shiso flowers and Tosazuke jelly, giving a bit of sourness to match with the taste of mackerel. At the bottom are some pieces of fig to provide a bit of sweetness to balance the palate. Good in taste. 

The other serving includes Akagai and Sawara. The Ark Shell has a crunchy texture, with each bite releasing the flavours of the sea. The Spanish mackerel has been slightly smoked, with a good sweetness on the flesh, tender and rich in umami. There are different condiments like wasabi and yuzu kosho on the side, but we think the original taste with a bit of shoyu is already wonderful.

The fourth course is 椀物. We witness how the chef has prepared the dashi, using three types of bonito and maguro flakes. Once he is satisfied, he provides us a small cup, to experience the delicate original taste without any additional ingredients. He takes puts in some small matsutake into the dashi, and the aromas and flavours are immediately enriched. Using the dashi to make the soup, it is served with a piece of Shiro-Amadai with a large Matsutake Mushroom. The taste of lightly grilled White Horsehead and surreal elegance of the mushroom, with yuzu peel, carrot and celery present a feast on both appearance and flavours.

The fifth course is 鰻手巻. We can see the Unagi being grilled over charcoal through the glass window looking into the kitchen. The meaty, thick Eel has a crisp surface, brushed with the homemade sauce to infuse with great umami taste, seasoned also with some sansho pepper, which stimulates the palate. The Roll Sushi format allows us to enjoy it easily while holding the grilled eel, at the best temperature and texture.

The sixth course is 鴨炭焼. The Charcoal Grilled French Duck breast is seasoned perfectly, with the breast tender and juicy. It is paired with the famous Kyoto Kujo leek, with the Japanese Leek very fragrant and with a slight sweet taste, along with Kamo Eggplant which has been cooked together with sesame oil, as well as Gingko. This is a great use of the produces from Kyoto and in many ways the main character for this dish is actually the vegetables, not the duck.

The seventh course is 手打ち蕎麦. The Spicy Radish Soba Noodles have an amazing texture, with nice buckwheat flavours. Chef Tomi has added Kuruma Prawn and Maitake Mushroom Tempura, with the prawn head also edible. Very delicious and not feeling any oiliness. As condiment there are some Salmon Roe and mashed radish as well, providing savoury and umami to enhance the soba sauce.

The eighth course is 和え物. It is a special Japanese side dish, mixing vegetables with sauce, a bit like a salad, but aiming to cleanse and refresh the palate. The chef has prepared some Kabu, or Turnip, together with Persimmon, then mix with some soy paste and toasted pine nuts. The delicate taste of the turnip and the elegant flavours of the persimmon complement each other, resulting in good harmony. A very nice dish to transition between the stronger taste tempura to the more delicate conger pike.

The ninth course is 鱧しゃぶ. The Conger Pike is lightly poached in Shabu style, together with some Matsutake Mushroom, which has richer taste than those used in the earlier soup, in a Dashi Broth made with Kombu. The chef has suggested us to first try the Hamo to enjoy the original delicate flavours of the fish, before dipping in the sauce, prepared using the conger pike bones, mixed with shoyu, scallions, ginger, sesame, and mashed turnip, which helps to elevate the umami.

The tenth course is 銀シャリ. The rice is the Highest Quality Koshihikari 越光米 from Minami-Uonuma 南魚沼, very soft and have a nice rice fragrance. The chef is very particular and even the water used to cook the rice is shipped from Japan. To pair with the rice there are some nicely grilled Sanma, with the seasonal Pacific Saury rich in fish oil and very tasty, along with Obanzai, the Traditional Kyoto Side Dish, with at least half of the ingredients must be coming from Kyoto. The pickles are so good that I am tempted to ask the chef to sell some to take home.

Finally, it is Dessert. Chef Tomi has prepared two servings, with the first being Walnut Cake, with the mochi supple and soft, with some crushed walnut scattered on top, and paired with a syrupy soup to give a nice sweetness. The Fruits include peach and two types of grapes, very juicy and sweet, again a good highlight of the quality of the ingredients used.

The bill on the night is $7,498. Service is excellent, with Chef Tomi friendly and eager to share with us in English, with his team also helping to translate when necessary. It is honestly one of the best dinners I have in this year, and I highly recommend this restaurant to fans of Japanese food, especially if you want to experience the authentic, original flavours, and the attention to details that the country is so proud of.

Wineshark HK Restaurant Review - Heyday Cuisine 凱日精品粵菜館

My friends know that I love to cook, and have been reading many cookbooks over the years. One of my favourite cookbooks has many details on how to prepare the proper marinade to make traditional Cantonese cuisines, written by Chef Philip Chan. Knowing that he is working for Heyday Cuisine Group now, we come today to their branch on 3/F JD Mall at Jordan to try it out.

The restaurant is of a decent size, and apart from the main dining area there are a number of private rooms on both sides. The décor is decent, with a more contemporary design, but there is still a large fish tank at one corner displaying many lively lobster, garoupa, and other seafood. After settling down at our table, we go through the menu to see what is on offer.

There are many choices, but we come here to try Chef Chan’s specialty, so one of the picks obviously is the char siu. Interestingly, there are two on the menu. After checking with the staff, we go for the leaner 蜜餞一字叉燒 ($168), along with two other dishes 招牌脆趣有米蝦兵蟹將 ($528) and 蟲草花雲耳蒸龍躉球 ($198). The steamed giant garoupa comes first, with the fish fillet seasoned well, and the soy sauce not too salty. Quite good.

When we finish ordering, the manager has shown us the live crab before taking it to the kitchen to prepare the signature deep-fried prawn and crab in crispy rice. The crab is very meaty, with the chef thoughtfully crushed the pincers and legs to make it easy to eat. The crispy rice has absorbed the crab flavours so it is also good in taste. Customers also can determine the number of prawns included ($20 each). Not to be missed for crab lover.

The final one to arrive is the char siu, which is a surprise as generally this will come pretty early. But knowing then that they are freshly roasted, already raised my expectation to another level, and it certainly delivers also. The pork meat is tender and has a small amount of fat, not completely lean, with the honey glaze on the surface a glistering temptation. The taste is so delicious, thanks to the different components of the marinade. One of the best char siu I have for a while.

The staff here are friendly and helpful in answering my questions, offering us the complimentary sweet potato soup for dessert as well. The bill on the night is $1,082. I heard that Chef Chan will make the roasted duck himself and perhaps with a bigger group next time we should try that also, to once again enjoy the magic he weaves in marinating and preparing roasted meat.

Wineshark HK Restaurant Review - The Merchants 嘗申滙

On the National Day holiday and the approach of the hairy crab season, we decide to go out for dinner and have booked this restaurant, which offers Shanghai cuisine. Located on the 45/F of Gloucester Tower in Landmark, we need to first go to the 43/F reception, and then take the elevator inside to reach the restaurant, adjacent to Cristal Room by Anne-Sophie Pic which we visited a few months back.

We are seated at a comfortable cherrywood banquette, just outside the two private rooms at the end of the restaurant. The design here is elegant, with plush carpet, cozy and premium ambience, with large windows on one side looking out to the Victoria Harbour and Central skyline, while on the other side are some embroidered wallpapers handcrafted by artisans.

Originally thinking of ordering the Hairy Crab Journey Menu, we have finally decided to go for the Autumns Treasure Tasting Menu ($1,680 per person) instead, in order to sample more of the restaurant’s signatures, together with some additional hairy crab dishes. The restaurant has thoughtfully printed the menu on the table with my name, in a way to personalize the dinner for us. A clever way to impress the guests.

The first course is The Merchants Selection of Classic Appetizers 嘗申滙經典前菜拼盤, which includes Crystal Pork Terrine Served with Vinegar 水晶肴肉, Tossed Jellyfish with Aged Vinegar 涼拌舟山紅蜇頭, and Braised Wheat Gluten with Black Fungus and Mushrooms 四喜手撕烤麩. All of the appetizers are delicious, with the savoury pork terrine going well with the vinegar, the jellyfish having great crunchy texture, the wheat gluten absorbing the flavours of the sauce and great in taste. The presentation is appealing too. A good start and raising our anticipation of other dishes.

The second course is Yellow Croaker with Vegetable and Bamboo Shoot Soup and Fish Maw 花膠薺菜黃魚羹. The soup is served steaming hot as it will start to get a bit fishy when cooled down. It is super delicious with great umami flavours, spot on in mouthfeel without being too watery or gluey. The yellow croaker meat has been cut into small pieces, along with Shepherd's Purse, bamboo shoots and fish maw, offering a great sense of enjoyment on each spoon. Fantastic.

As my wife loves hairy crab, I have pre-ordered an additional Six-Tael Lake Taihu Hairy Crab 六兩太湖大閘蟹 ($628) for her. The crab is of a good size, with plenty of crab roes. She enjoys it very much. I am not a big fan as it takes a lot of time and effort to get the meat, so I decide to skip.

But instead of just waiting for her to finish the crab, I also order an additional Hairy Crab Roe with Green Bean Noodles 蟹粉粉皮 ($588). With an abundance of crab roes fully covering the green bean noodles on the bottom, the taste is simply phenomenal, with the noodles picking up the crab roes and its intense flavours, plus the vinegar adding extra dimension to the enjoyment. I almost finish the whole serving by myself, it is a must order in my opinion.

Resuming to the menu, the third course is Wok-Fried River Shrimps with Snap Peas 甜豆河蝦仁. The river shrimps have a good sweetness in taste while the snap peas have a great poppy texture, with the two combining to offer delicate, pleasant flavours. The chef has made some vinegar pearls to put in, looking a bit like large caviar, and also in a creative way control the amount of vinegar added by the customer to ensure the taste is per what the chef wants to highlight. Very clever.

The fourth course is Kanto Sea Cucumber and Scallion with Pork Belly in Sweet Soy Sauce 蔥燒關東遼參拌紅燒肉. The pork belly has been braised impeccably, having a melt-in-the-mouth enjoyment, rich and flavourful. The sauce has provided a perfect condiment for the sea cucumber, which has a contrasting bouncy texture, with the scallion providing a nice fragrance to the dish. Very good.

The fifth course is Boneless Baby Yellow Croakers with Spiced Salt 椒鹽無骨小黃魚. Instead of the whole fish, the chef uses only the fillet and then deep-frying to crispness, then adding the spiced salt to season. Not overly salty or spicy, the flavours of the delicate fish fillet are significantly enhanced. A good way to prepare the traditional dish with a modern twist to facilitate customers to enjoy.

Before serving the next course, the staff tells us it is time for the fireworks and take a pause in serving the dish. I ask that they continue, not knowing that the restaurant will switch off the lights completely for customers to better enjoy the show. At the end some of the dishes come during the fireworks but we have difficulty eating in complete darkness. Not the fault of the restaurant, it is a mistake I will not make next time.

During the fireworks comes the sixth course, Braised White Cabbage with Jinhua Ham in Chicken Consomme 上湯腿絲娃娃菜. The clear consommé is light yet highly flavourful, apparently prepared for long hours using chicken and Chinese ham. The cabbage has a nice, sweet taste. Some finely shredded ham on top has added a bit of extra savoury flavours. Really good.

Included in the menu are two hairy crab roe dishes, including Hairy Crab Roe Clay Pot Rice 砂鍋蟹粉飯. As this is also served during the fireworks, we have waited a bit before eating, and frankly it is less enjoyable as a result. I also believe if the rice is drier the whole experience will be even better. Maybe I should return to try this one again.

The other one is Hairy Crab Roe Xiao Long Bao 蟹粉小籠包. With a delicate dough holding the pork and crab roes, the soup comes out on the bite, filling the mouth with wonderful tastes. It is a good dim sum to finish the meal, and I can probably have another couple, not because I was still hungry, but more due to how good they are.

The dessert is Glutinous Pearl in Osmanthus Sweet Soup with Rice Wine 桂花酒釀丸子. The soup is not too sweet, with the fragrant candied osmanthus flowers giving appealing aromas to the chewy glutinous pearls. Nicely done.

To go with the food, I have opened a bottle of M. Chapoutier Chante-Alouette 2018 from Hermitage ($1,530). This is a Marsanne varietal white wine, with a brilliant golden colour, exhibiting delicious quince, honey, ginger, white flowers and walnut aromas. Quite a good match with most of the food on the menu, including the hairy crab roes.

The bill on the night is $6,824. Service is good, with the staff friendly and attentive. On the night the restaurant is fully booked, which is not a surprise given it is a great spot to watch the fireworks, but considering the quality and price it is still a very good option if one wants to enjoy nice Shanghai cuisine in a comfortable and premium setting. Definitely worth returning again.